Greaser007's 1946 CJ2A yard art / acquisition piece

Greaser007

Well Oiled
Mar 1, 2019
2,224
Anderson, California
First Name
Leonard
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1946
Ok guys and gals:

Below I will discuss the chronicles of "Gemma" the Jeep.

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above photo shows Gemma being towed home on Dec 17, 2017. i paid $1800 for my cj2a. The ad said "will run" !! :)

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above photo shows me on left listening to the sales pitch from the seller on right.

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towing Gemma home with the wife's Suburban.


My wife and I raised several lambs in our homes over the years and diapered too. We took one of them snow skiing to Mammoth Mountain with us for a week because the girl at the Condo rental volunteered to babysit during the day.
Imagine babysitting a white and black lamb with red hankerchief around its neck, and thinking it was one of our dogs. hahaha
Everyone loved Gemma, the lamb, when we would make a stop somewhere and the lamb would pile out with the three kids, wandering around like it was a pet dog.

I retired from work at age 65-1/2 from putting in my last 20-yrs with the State Highway department, working as a Land Surveyor.
My retirement date was April 28, 2017, Whooopie and Yippie.
I had sold something, so had some extra $$$ burning a hole in my pocket. I had a high priority Bucket List item being an "illusion" i dreamed up way back in 1985, while traversing the Rubicon trail with my wife before we had kids. At that time, I told my wife "I have and idea of how I can incorporate a direct bolt-in conversion to put a Borg Warner T-18 transmission into the cj2a so it can benefit from 6:1 trail gearing for creepy-crawling slow so as to reduce stress on the chassis and drivetrain and reduce shock to the components for peace of mind.



of late, i've been spending more time here on the OWF forums instead of the "thecj2apage.com" where I initially started a build-page.
Also, in the cj2apage forums I put together a Posting of my T-18 Build project.
I dove into the transmission build conversion project looking forward to teaching myself how to successfully weld Cast Iron so I could perform my Modified L134 Bellhousing to accept a Borg Warner T-18 directly like conventional, without having an Adapter Plate between bellhousing and transmission. I will post a link to my T-18 build on here soon.

First, I have to post a link to a good 2021 video of early Willys traversing the Rubicon Jeep Trail.
The video does a good job of showing difficulty in negotiating obstacles on the trail.


Egads, Dec. 17th of 2021 will mark 4-years of owning Gemma, and I have not driven it yet.
I really do enjoy looking at my '46 each day in my travels from house to shop (a converted dirt floor barn).

Recently, this week, I did just recieve the Group steering wheel puller from Kevin in NY, and yesterday, Dec. 09, I handed the puller off to DzlFC (Andy) who will be enjoying it next.

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above photo shows my steering wheel successfully removed with torch, 3-lb maul and a '57 chevy king pin punch.
 
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Greaser reporting in again:
I had a heck of a time pulling the steering wheel, and wound up having to cut the center portion of the composite portion of the wheel to expose the steel hub and spokes. I applied heat with my torch time after time.
I kind of explained my procedure on the Tool Exchange forum thread Dec. 08, 2021.

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above photo showing the profile of wheel hub in relation to the column tube and shaft.
In the tool exchange Steering Wheel Puller thread, I mentioned the puller bent the threaded end of the steering shaft like a reverse-flare. I was exaggerating. hahaha
But you guys who have already pulled their wheels, can share the misery of wishing one of these wheels off.

For those who have not pulled their wheel, the task may be successful or may be a fail. Who knows.
I impacted the wheel off using a '57 chevy king pin for a heavy and short punch, and a 3-lb maul. Believe me, I beat and beat where the spokes are welded to the hub (2-locations), and am surprised the welds held to all of the beating. Wow

Now, I have no plans of spending much time, yet, on Gemma, because i have been involved in Distractions other than Willys jeeps. Seriously, I love snooping through Craigslist each day seeing what has came up for sale in Willys parts.

I want to remove the driver's side front fender.
Then next remove the Ross steering box for a rebuild so I can re-install and have a re-furbed steering box for safety once I get the '46 driveable.
Next I will remove and inspect each steering rod and link ends and service as required. I'll probably retrofit stronger springs in the drag link ends for tighter steering. The springs act like shock absorbers in the steering system.

Once I get the steering refurbed, then I will dive into the front axle assembly and remove knuckles for servicing king pins.

For those interested, below is a link to Willys serial numbering and production numbers:

 
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Update on my CJ2A below:

Yesterday, the sun came out and so I decided I would attack loosening fender bolts on the driver's side so I can proceed with removal of the Ross manual steering box. I think I stayed warm from pulling on the ratchet and holding the caged nuts with a pair of vise grips. After a few hours of entertainment, I had all bolts (I think) loosened and soaked good with good old WD-40. I have rusty machine screws to either unscrew (probably not), or grind the heads off. These machine screws probably no. 8's secure the wiring loom for towing lights. There is a towing light plug mounted up high in the fenderwell, which has to be all unplugged to get the fender off. I really don't wish to cut the wires.
The temps were cold, so I retreated to the warmth of the cabin by 3:30 pm, but I did make some progress. :)

My instincts tell me to service the Ross box, and re-install.

But then AGAIN, my gut tells me to go make a pass through Pick-n-Pull and select myself a tilt-column $46, linkage, tie rod $40, draglink and Saginaw PS box $60, from a later model Jeep Cherokee, and modify them to work on my cj2a. The buck doesn't stop there, because I will also need a PS pump, mounting bracket for the L134 engine. I'll probably do like I did in 1984, and grab an air pump pulley from a gm vehicle, and stitch weld it to the face of the existing single pulley. I have no idea or memory of how I configured the pump mount scheme back in 1984. And back then there was no "internet or interest forums" for a reason to photo document anything. I will get to re-design a bracket that will get the job done.

I wonder if GM (AC Delco) is still making steering columns for Jeep Cherokees? I know they made the tilt columns for the jeep Renegade models. When ordering parts for my '77 Renegade from Jeep, the parts arrived in AC Delco bags. Aha!
 
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I wonder if GM (AC Delco) is still making steering columns for Jeep cherokee's ?
I know they made the tilt columns for the jeep Renegade models. When ordering parts for my '77 Renegade from Jeep, the parts arrived in ACDelco bags. Aha !!!
Probably not as those were the AMC days and they sourced parts from anybody.
Now it's Chrysler parts and with the merge with Solantis, who knows where the parts come from.
 
While i am rambling along in my "yard-art acquisition piece" build thread, I wanted to share a photo of a non-Willys puzzle.
I have a Ford GPW engine block with a compromised (cracked) water jacket in the block.
I had the block jet-washed and magnu-fluxed by Ron Rominger, an engine machinist in Red Bluff, who has built many L134 engines over the decades. Below is the result of his inspection. multiple cracks.
He did also mention some times the push of the fozen water can crack through the distributor hole down inside and leak water into the oil. So, if I do repair the water jacket, I will have Ron bore and sleeve the dizzy hole like he suggested.
This Ford GPW engine block is not a priority-piece, so it is hybernating in my shop. It is a replaement engine I think.

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above photo shows side of GPW block casting numbers "GPW - 6015" and replacement engine

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above photo showing stamping for engine 92601. The guys on the g503 thinks it is a replacement engine because of the old deteriorated aluminum tag which was riveted to the side of the block. My machinist, Ron removed it when cleaning and inspecting $130.
I spoke with the engine builder who balances rotating assemblies, and did my 429 assembly, how many shop hours it would take to install "Loc-n-Stitch" pins for the repair. His answer was: "i could spend and easy 6-hours meticulously installing them."
I'm not so sure I would feel comfortable doing a bunch of peening on the water jacket after pin install.
If I follow Lincoln Electric's suggestion on how to weld cast iron, once the cracks are V-grooved properly, I can make quick work of filling the groove with Harris 99 nickel rod (and peening gently while puddle is orange). No after peening needed. We all know this is easy to say, but once working on the task at hand, there won't be any real "quick-work" becasuse of unexpected hurdles and bumps in the road.
Wilson, in the movie Dennis the Mennace said "we must always expect the unexpected" !! :)
 
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While i am rambling along in my "yard-art acquisition piece" build thread, I wanted to share a photo of a non-Willys puzzle.
I have a Ford GPW engine block with a compromised (cracked) water jacket in the block.

View attachment 112526

I spoke with the engine builder who balances rotating assemblies, and did my 429 assembly, how many shop hours it would take to install "Loc-n-Stitch" pins for the repair. His answer was: "i could spend and easy 6-hours meticulously installing them."
I'm not so sure I would feel comfortable doing a bunch of peening on the water jacket after pin install.
If I follow Lincoln Electric's suggestion on how to weld cast iron, once the cracks are V-grooved properly, I can make quick work of filling the groove with Harris 99 nickel rod (and peening gently while puddle is orange). No after peening needed.
Take pictures! Wanna see how you set this up.
 
Ok, I'm back once again, and was doing some 'spot-checking' on possible tilt columns:

The guy below is prepping to install a cherokee column, supposedly made by GM Saginaw per a forum member. Ha !

Below is a link to a pdf file of the GM tilt column: _ _ _ for you guys needing reference material.
 
Dec. 28, 2021, Greaser checking in again: Below is a link to the welding electrode I had good luck with in my Cast Iron welding endeavors:

I just learned that Harris is a brand of Lincoln Electric. go figure:
On the following link page, it shows Harris a Lincoln Electric Company at the top of the page, and the nickel electrode.

Read the fine print instructions of how to use this electrode. It is very straight forward and true. I know which electrodes failed for me, and the Harris was the only electrode used in which the weld bead didn't crack after cool down for 15-minutes. Now, on smaller stuff the other electrodes held, but for the 9-inch long bell housing crack, the Harris was the only electrode of the four I experimented with which did not crack on the bell. I'm sold.

Yes, I did have 3-layers of cardboard between me and the fuel tank when putting the torch to it. August 2019. I had read a forum thread where a youngish guy said his dad welded fuel tanks all day in the Army. He said his dad would fill the tank with water and as it spilled over out the inlet, put the torch flame to it to burn off the fumes. Was I lucky or was his story true? Ok then to make sure, I did the same with another fuel tank, and no explosion, so I am feeling Luckily-Confident. Will I make it to age 90-something? Probably not, being a risk taker. hahahaha

Heck, today just stepping into a cross-walk is risky-business. H*ll, we could get Steam-Rolled and not know it.

Here is an addition Link to what I use in my Power Steering for L134 engine driven power steering conversions:

SC1001 - Ididit Column Steering Rag Joint 1"-48 X 3/4"-30​

Most of the power steering systems pre-power-rack, incorporated these, well, American autos into the '80's and maybe beyond. I was doing some research for Power Assist systems of the mid-to-late '50's auto's and came across the rag joint. I always scarfed them in the past from the local wrecking yards (Recycler's today) with steering shaft and U-joints.
In the late '70's and early '80's I was using steering shafts and U-joints from VW jetta's and golf's. Very nice strong compact steering linkage joints. There are many ways to shorten or lengthen the steering shafts with welding techniques. I like the idea of plug welding a joint if dealing with a tubular shaft by drilling a hole in several places and plug weld to an inner piece of solid rod stock from whatever donor piece laying in the remnant pile.

Now for a drag link or tie-rod if tubular, I simply take my cut-off wheel and make a long groove in the tie rod if tubular, and then with solid stock inserted 6 or 8 inches into the tubing, simply plug weld the groove for tensional strength.
So if dealing with a 3/4 ton front axle assembly, each plug weld groove of 2, may be 4-inches long. The V-groove lay back for the butt-weld joint of two tubes should be substantial like twice the thickness of the tubing, or more for purchase surface area, where the two pieces of tie-rod tube are joined (butt-welded), peening each small fillet, and allowing to cool before the next fillet. This may sound like a no no, but if you take your time and use good practices, your home fabricated steering systems will give us many years of brutal service. There is the choice to purchase new material cut and threaded to your preferences for big $$$$. What kind of insurance policy comes with the purchase items ? eh ?
Many times we don't have to modify a tie rod because most all factory solid front axle assemblies came with tie rods.
Some may be split like the early CJ's. yuck. I don't like draglinks which attach to a tie rod, but prefer the drag link to connect to the steering knuckle arm with a rod end. Some rod ends are slotted to allow for up and down movement of the Drag link, so very important to study your rod ends for proper free movement.
Basically, use a drag link rod end for drag links and not tie-rod ends. Just something to think about.
All linkage must be studied closely for movement with no-bind with suspension fully extended and collapsed, and full swing checked full lock left and right. If you don't, you may wind up stranded with broken steering. just saying.

Pitman Arms:
Pitman arms are Forged steel, and therefore can also be welded. Not to be alarmed if shortened or lengthened properly with good welding techniques. Just like the Tech Videos on the Lincoln Electric website remind us:
provide proper V-Groove laid back for good surface area for weld purchase and for the first pass to hit the root of the groove. My old chassis mentor said it is ok to modify steering components if done properly with good practices.
Even with welding Cast Iron, Lincoln Electric has some of the best advice I have found.

This may not pertain to many folks doing a Power Steering conversion on an early Willys cj2a, but, the Throw of the pitman arm can be detrimental to a steering system if too long of a sweep.
When installing a Power Steering system with cross-over, the sweep of the arm needs to be addressed.
Most all solid front axle assemblies have adjustable steering stops. So, then, if your steering has more sweep after the steering stops are reached, something must give. If your pitman arm has more-sweep beyond the stops, then the drag link simply pushes the entire chassis away from the axle assembly. How far ? this all depends.
I have seen power steering boxes ripped from the frames on the Rubicon trail. I have seen spring hangers ripped from the chassis and shock towers. I have snapped the eye off of the end of leaf springs on my '46 cj2a on the Rubicon.
For some vehicles, the fabricator may wish to install a panhard rod to stiffen the "rock' (or sideways movement) between front axle and chassis. Even with power steering, on relentless obstacles we may be best off to not be forceful with the power steering.
What I do is set up my steering sweep so the sweep of the pitman arm stops just at or ahead of the steering stops.
This way, the arm isn't pushing the axle assembly to one side or the other.

Pitman arm Angle at draglink joint:
If your new Power Steering system draglink is not parallel to the tie rod, a fabricator may need to check the drag link rod end for binding at full sweep of the pitman arm and at suspension full-droop with shock in place.
Now, where I am going with this is the angle of the end of the pitman arm to draglink end may need to rotate.
Here again, if using proper welding techniques, a pitman arm end may be cut and rotated. This advise is only for those individuals who have faith in their metal fusion processes and materials.
Good luck finding an off the shelf pitman arm with proper angles of geometry and length !!
On my Ford E-series van, my steering pitman arm was modified when encorporating 4-wheel drive, and I have pounded (worn-out) two sets of ball joints on the Dana 44 front axle assembly with no steering system failures.
With the 35-inch tires at 40-mph speeds over rocky terrain, I always expected a spindle failure. The ball joints would loosen, but never lost a front wheel assembly.
I'm just rambling with what I've learned over the decades of 4-by conversion steering stuff.

The following link shows almost everything you may need for a Power Steering Conversion for early Willys:

This morning I was watching the Friday Flat Fender Fun run in Moab, and boy those early willys took a Beating !!!
I've never trekked Moab, but have many summers running the Rubicon witnessing every imaginable part break that you wouldn't expect. I'm out dated on current trail conditions now that I haven't traversed the Rubicon since 2001.
That's it for today's update ramble on steering bs. Happy Trails ! :)
 
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Greaser007 reporting back on my Yard-Art-46-cj2a:

I called Ken (oldtime) from over on (thecj2apage.com) yesterday. Yep, he is done with his grapple machine tow frame on his cj3b.
The last time we spoke, in early 2020, he was fabricating the boom assembly.
Ken seems pretty knowledgeable of the Borg Warner T-18 transmissions and 'variants' and I had discussed a question with him on my T-18 build.
I expressed my concern of too much play between my input shaft and the 3rd / 4th syncro hub. No difinitive answers from Ken.

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Above photo showing my point of concern of maybe too much play in the syncro.

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Above photo: all looks good while shifting collar for 3rd and 4th is in neutral position.
I have my reservations.


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Above photo shows my "coffee cup coaster" adapter which becomes the new Front Bearing retainer for accepting the stock T-90 front retainer and also indexes the bell housing unit to the 4-3/4" diameter small T-18 retainer hole.
The nice shiny input shaft protruding, is the IH Scout input which Moser Engineering turned down for my and re-splined to the T-90 template.

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Above photo shows moch-up assembly of the T-18 trans with IH Scout transfer-case adapter plate.
Note: there are differences between this plate and the rear face of the Ford T-98 case, which required some filler weld for proper gasket mating of the two surfaces. Here again, a stock gasket wouldn't match up with both faces. We must improvize when we deviate from the norm. hahaha
hour after hour of checking and re-checking.

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Above photo shows the "T-18" to "L-134" converted transmission assembled, but not ready for install.
I don't have any gaskets installed, and had to hand-make the gasket for rear adapter plate to rear of trans case.
I put all this together going in Blind, and learned as I proceeded further.
My biggest cost again, was machining services which I was happy to pay.

I spoke wit my machinist, Mark @ A&A Welding and Machine, and told him my gut feeling is I need an 0.030" shim ahead of the rear mainshaft bearing to push the mainshaft ahead the 0.030" amount.
I got to reading through our private pm's with Ken from early 2021, and had mentioned to him that I tried an 0.060" shim washer, and the result was too tight.
Upon oogling through Munnell & Sherril, I did find machined washers in the correct I.D. for the T-18 output stub, but the O.D. is way too big.
I swung my my machinist's and asked Mark if he could turn down the O.D. for me, and he said Yes.
Sometime this spring, 2022, probably more like summer, I will order up the 0.030" machined washer and hand it off to Mark.

Pulling the rear bearing off of the T-18 mainshaft is a real Booger, which I am not looking forward to.
I rent the bearing separator and puller at our local Autozone 6-miles distant.
Than after installing the new 0.030" shim, will be the slow task of driving the bearing back on with a small ball peen hammer.
Endless hours of trial and determinations. I am getting closer _ _ _ I hope. LoL

Below is some good reading on Welding Cast Iron for those with inquisitive minds or back-yard determination:


Later
 
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Looking good Len. And good to see you back working on the 4 speed project. I'm still on the fence about picking up that NP540. It might be cool, but a lot of work to fit it in either the Wagon or the CJ5
 
Greaser report for April 15, 2022:
Ok guys and gals, about the only progress on my '46 Willys was to stop in at @Jeepsterjim (Jim Serr) in my travels abroad, and we conversed Jeep's for 3-hours. Jim has been working on his '46 2a frame. You wouldn't believe the additional structural members he added inside the existing frame "C" channels. We were studying the thickness of the existing "C" channel, and the slightly thicker material he added to the inside upright and horizontal pieces. Nice work Jim !!
Jim is my age, 70, like @rocket and has been sourcing out his welding on this refurb, and welding passed my inspection (especially for the new front rectangular crossmember (of course moved forward in pre-planning for a possible V-8 length.

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Above photo: mr jeepster himself in all of his glory. ( I resisted a selfie of the two of us). hahaha
I must admit, Jim has a very respectable shop at his home complete with full bath. (space pre-planned for future studio apartment).
Jim and I were in Willys jeep heaven in our comparison of ideas and his very respectable progress.
His front Dana 30 is up at WFO for set-up. Jim was showing me his disc brake kit and the cadd-cut pieces which make up the mounting for the calipers. Jim would have to respond to share who he sourced the kit from which uses Ford late model calipers.

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Above photo: looking down the length of Jim's '46 cj2a frame now boxed and with new front crossmember.
Please note the later model crossmember laying up top, which will support the trans / t-case mount. will be a nice touch or upgrade.


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Above photo: lower wheel stud is the one Jim isolated for use on his front Suzuki sourced rotor / wheel hub solution. The Suzuki rotors go on the outside of the wheel hub, where-as some conversions use a rotor mounted inboard with studs pressing through from the back.
The pressed in studs may in fact help keep the rotor properly indexed. who knows.


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Above photo: Jim's early '70's cj narrow track Dana 44 rear housing and in front of that is his new rear frame cross-member.
This is the narrow track with factory flanged axles. NICE !!!
I cannot remember who Jim sourced the rear frame crossmember from, but he also ordered the optional "Stiffener" piece which fits inside the center portion. Geeze-Louise, the frame rails and crossmember's are pretty light gauge material. (maybe 12 or 14 ga.) ?
Believe it or not, i reminded Jim that it has been one-year since we last chewed the fat, and was when I drove us up to @rocket (Rodney's) place to AltaMotorsports in Alta, Californ-eye-aye. That afternoon, the weather spit light snow on us all afternoon. hahaha Burrrr.


The only involvement I've experienced lately is to harass Omix-Ada about their worthless Solex Carburetor kits.
So I've happily been answering emails from all kinds of departments.
Here is an example: the paper gaskets don't fit the carb body casting because of obvious shrinkage. I tried soaking them in oil hoping the material would swell up and grow bigger. No luck.
Also, the inlet jet for the accelerator pump did not have a "Check-Ball" so accel pump would not function.
The only Item I was able to use from the OMIX-ADA Solex carb kit was the accelerator pump diaphragm. I'm not happy with OMIX stuff.
 
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Greaser back checking in:
@rocket : we had a great willys gab session. Jim was showing me all of his goodies he has been collecting for his build.
And, on a good note he said his health has been holding steady. Always a good thing.

Ok, so, I spend more time rambling around on the internet doing research. Ford _ _ _ _ and, Willys related. hahaha
I was reading @Vintage Don 's thread this morning on his early Willys model 53 ? axle redo. I remember as a kid, my dad had one of those housings laying around. I've seen very few and most in photos.
Alright already, I have been wondering what I have for a L134 bell housing. Mainly the one I modified to accept the Borg Warner Ford T-98 case which is housing IH Scout T-18 internals. Yesterday, I stumbled around finding not much.

Before I forget: I'm gonna side-step here and mention a snow trek yesterday. My son was insistent on driving to Tamarack Lake once again.
We departed the home around 9am, and headed out with his daughter and my wife. Sure enough by the time we climbed up out of the canyon to the crest, we were getting snow. We found the supposed correct Forest Service road and the further we drove the higher we climbed.
By 1am, we were forced to turn around again due to the steepness of the hard pack snow. Just too steep and slick, and off-camber.

Ok, back to the bell housing thing:
I stumbled head-on to my anser this evening.

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Above photo: light tan bell on top is the one Jim Serr gave me which he dropped and broke. Electrode sample no. 4 cured the crack.
hammer-finish bell housing on the bottom I purchased from @ndnile a few years back already.


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Above bell housing photo: casting number 804306 checks as a CJ3B / 5 / and 6. with closed nose starter.


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Above bell housing photo: casting number 641420 checks as a CJ-3-A and 4-63 in SW / SD / PU.
This has the bushing in the bell housing for the open nosed starters.
Currently i have no clue which starter I need for 12v for this bell housing if anyone wishes to give me a hint or suggestion.

Wilysjeepparts.com also had engine rebuild kits: L134 chain drive = $1450, and the L134 gear drive = $1250.
The kits below have most everything expected except for cylinder sleeves. Typical sleeves run approx 1/8-inch thiick.

Geeze, locally the price per cylinder for boring and honing is now $100 per hole.
But, once an engine is freshened up they sure run nice.

Ok, a good day today knowing what I have for a bell housing.

What I could use, is a link to understanding which flywheel I need for teeth count for the cj-3-a bell housing.
According the willysjeepparts website for the cj-3-a bell housing, I would need starter 641157-R/B, 9 TOOTH STARTER DRIVE BENDIX, AUTO-LITE MODEL MZ-4137, FOR USE WITH 124 TOOTH RING GEAR.
Another ring gear counting 97 teeth with 10-tooth bendix were noted for the cj-2-a models.
Here I go again mixing and matching.


I'll be back _ _ _
 
Sounds more complicated than putting a Ford 5.0L v8, Np435 4 speed granny, mated to a Rover LT230 transfer case in a CJ. ;) Sounds like you've got some research to do.o_O Let the Fun and Games begin. :cool:
Not complicated but a new learn for me, not being familiar with which flywheel diameter meshes with the LH / RH bell housing.

Greaser007 general project update:
I've been playing iron scrapper since April 21st cleaning up my Dad's lifetime collection of scrap iron. Pieces and parts and brackets and old worn out gm parts and such. I have set aside a few trinkets and given some away.

On my "hobby-front-lines", I got to install new diaphragm parts in a motorcraft model 2100 carb for my '66 Ford FE engine which I am hoping to resurrect from the dead, which has Mercury valve covers. Engine block casting is C6ME-A, which upon my recent internet search is a Mercury block. I could be wrong, but if the casting was C6AE-A the A following the 6 designates car or pickup. Supposedly the M is Mercury. In reality it could be a 352, 390, 410 or 428 all depending on bore and stroke.
Who knows, because I'm attempting to learn while running a 70-year old proccessor (slow to digest incoming data for later retrieval).

So upon re-installing the 2-bbl carb on the FE engine late yesterday evening, the engine was running best yet ! whoooopie. kicking heels.
And I had good vacuum steady at 19-inches, and a smile on my face. I'm running a Valvoline 2-stroke fuel mix to lube the intake valves on this engine which has been idle since 2007 waiting for rescue from the scrapper.
Realistically, I should pull and disassemble this engine to freshen it up and make certain if it may be a 428. Probably a 410.
Guess I need to check the stroke to see if it measures 3.980=inches for 410 & 428, whereas the 390 has 3.784" stroke.
a real time Rubix-Cube puzzle.

Below are the possibilities as found on the fordfe.com interest forums:
Displacement Bore Stroke
332 4.000 in (101.6 mm) 3.300 in (83.8 mm)
352 4.002 in (101.7 mm) 3.500 in (88.9 mm)
360 4.052 in (102.9 mm) 3.500 in (88.9 mm)
361 4.047 in (102.8 mm) 3.500 in (88.9 mm)
390 4.052 in (102.9 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm)
391 4.052 in (102.9 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm)
406 4.130 in (104.9 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm)
410 4.054 in (103.0 mm) 3.98 in (101 mm)
427 4.232 in (107.5 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm)
428 4.132 in (105.0 mm) 3.98 in (101 mm)

The only Willys work I've been performing is studying floor pans and did gather two nice donor pieces of 16 or 18-ga metal sheets from my Dad's scrap collection for floor refurbishing on my '56 Willys wagon in the future.
 
Greaser report for April 15, 2022:
Ok guys and gals, about the only progress on my '46 Willys was to stop in at @Jeepsterjim (Jim Serr) in my travels abroad, and we conversed Jeep's for 3-hours. Jim has been working on his '46 2a frame. You wouldn't believe the additional structural members he added inside the existing frame "C" channels. We were studying the thickness of the existing "C" channel, and the slightly thicker material he added to the inside upright and horizontal pieces. Nice work Jim !!
Jim is my age, 70, like @rocket and has been sourcing out his welding on this refurb, and welding passed my inspection (especially for the new front rectangular crossmember (of course moved forward in pre-planning for a possible V-8 length.

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Above photo: mr jeepster himself in all of his glory. ( I resisted a selfie of the two of us). hahaha
I must admit, Jim has a very respectable shop at his home complete with full bath. (space pre-planned for future studio apartment).
Jim and I were in Willys jeep heaven in our comparison of ideas and his very respectable progress.
His front Dana 30 is up at WFO for set-up. Jim was showing me his disc brake kit and the cadd-cut pieces which make up the mounting for the calipers. Jim would have to respond to share who he sourced the kit from which uses Ford late model calipers.

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Above photo: looking down the length of Jim's '46 cj2a frame now boxed and with new front crossmember.
Please note the later model crossmember laying up top, which will support the trans / t-case mount. will be a nice touch or upgrade.


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Above photo: lower wheel stud is the one Jim isolated for use on his front Suzuki sourced rotor / wheel hub solution. The Suzuki rotors go on the outside of the wheel hub, where-as some conversions use a rotor mounted inboard with studs pressing through from the back.
The pressed in studs may in fact help keep the rotor properly indexed. who knows.


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Above photo: Jim's early '70's cj narrow track Dana 44 rear housing and in front of that is his new rear frame cross-member.
This is the narrow track with factory flanged axles. NICE !!!
I cannot remember who Jim sourced the rear frame crossmember from, but he also ordered the optional "Stiffener" piece which fits inside the center portion. Geeze-Louise, the frame rails and crossmember's are pretty light gauge material. (maybe 12 or 14 ga.) ?
Believe it or not, i reminded Jim that it has been one-year since we last chewed the fat, and was when I drove us up to @rocket (Rodney's) place to AltaMotorsports in Alta, Californ-eye-aye. That afternoon, the weather spit light snow on us all afternoon. hahaha Burrrr.


The only involvement I've experienced lately is to harass Omix-Ada about their worthless Solex Carburetor kits.
So I've happily been answering emails from all kinds of departments.
Here is an example: the paper gaskets don't fit the carb body casting because of obvious shrinkage. I tried soaking them in oil hoping the material would swell up and grow bigger. No luck.
Also, the inlet jet for the accelerator pump did not have a "Check-Ball" so accel pump would not function.
The only Item I was able to use from the OMIX-ADA Solex carb kit was the accelerator pump diaphragm. I'm not happy with OMIX stuff.
GEEZ, nice write up. Always enjoy your company and enjoy Willys/Jeep guys stopping by. Here's a link to the "REAR" disc brake system I'm going to use. REAR BRAKESDISC . Hopefully by the next time you drop by I will have a rolling chassis.

Another cool feature found with these rear disc brakes is it has electric emergency brakes. I am going to wire it up so I can apply/select Left or Right or both E-brake{s} as needed.
 
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Greaser007 checking in on my scattered Willys cj-2a Thread:
Another road-block for willys progress - again. This time, of upmost importance, the rear powered Lift-hatch mechanism has quit working on my wife's 2007 Suburban. Dealer doesn't relay much technical information other than an estimate of $1,750 smackers. :(
Ugh and Ugha-Bugha.
Now, I have the liftgate actuator assembly completely disassembled, and checking components for proper actuation.
I have concluded the electric motor-driven latch is not sending a signal to the lift-gate control module to power-up the lift-motor & clutch.
Not being an "electrical-wizard" of sorts, I've spent hours on the net digesting and dredging for possible cures.
Non-yet _ _ _ _ other than lift-gate repairs by shops are a real crap-shoot per the forums.
Supposedly, a 2007-2014 GMC Acadia electric liftgate latch interchanges, and I am off to Pick-n-Pull chasing a supposed 2009 Acadia which shows as being in the Redidng P-n-Pull yard ! Yes, i will have my eye open for possible Willy's donor parts like seats.
Geeze - Louise, I just checked pricing and now-a-days a 4x4 solid front axle assembly from P-n-Pull is now $330 smackers.
 
Saturday update on Greaser007 hobby progress (or regress).
So, I shot out to pick-n-pull, and someone had already beat me to the Acadia liftgate latch 2009 model.
I searched all the northern California p-n-p yard listings, and nothing in the year range of 2007 to 2014. _ _ _ as suspected.
My wife's Suburban is going into a shop on Monday for hopeful diagnosis and cure. I have my reservations.

I should start a build thread on my recent '56 wagon purchase, but I have made no effort for a "fire-up" because there is no engine. :)

Yesterday, I was feeling Lucky, Friday, May 06, 2022:
I had recently discovered a faulty voltage regulator on my '78 Ford 'do-over' challenge, and my charging system was indicating 14.3 volts upon replacing the regulator with a Napa-sold unit. Just Thursday, my nephew a motor pool supervisor, was telling me he had been having Standard Ignition product failures. Hmm.
So, I called my buddy, Morris, living 30-miles south of me and told him to get ready, I'm making a shake-down run to his place.
I made it to his home, and upon restart, all i had was a solenoid "click". No-way. :(
My ear-to-ear smile of gratification was gone, and I was sulking. Could my new voltage regulator died already, as I'm getting battery voltage only, @ idle (12.5v instead of around 14.3v).
My buddy charged the battery while we enjoyed our afternoon gab-session and he showed me his board he made up for mounting his electrical relays for re-wiring his '37 Ford 2-door sedan. Today, I will be fiddling with swapping in another regulator, and see what happens.

I had read an article a few years back explaining the down-side to having a vintage vehicle collection.
The one thing I remember from the article is the mention of regular service intervals and time required to maintain the fleet. yep, Time.
In my mind, I'm working on my Willys, but in reality my Willys have been side-lined with "Fleet-Management / Maintenance" duties on everything but Willys. :)

I wish everyone a very Happy Mother's day !
My wife will be hosting a brunch for her tribe, and should be a great day to be alive.
Funny thing, my nephews boys don't get excited about off-roading unless in a Polaris or Can-Am side-by-side. Their brains don't even register anything Willys. hahaha, _ _ _ changing times.
 
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