GrandWillys Project

A breakfast buddy has built 6 cars for his wife. She must not like them as usually sold in a year. The last one ws built for his 13 year old grand daughter. VW bus with Tesla Electrics. It sits in his driveway because used Batteries are impossible to calibrate, and too chap for new. This weekend he picked up a 98% bitchen 39 Buick that has not run in 20 years. He brought it to Breakfast yesterday. He said his wife might get to see him this year now.... Not sure which one is hard to please...... Marcus has a car in the oven for only her so she probably wants this 12 year project on-the-road.
I have a special interest in 1939 Buicks. When I came home from the Army, mine was gone. Always wondered where it went. I restored it from a clapped out Rose Muffler Shop, D/Gas Coupe to a street rod in 1966. I came home in July 1969 and it was GONE!
Buick 39, 1966 001.jpg
 
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Coming time to decide what colours to paint the old HEMI coil covers and the piece over the radiator that I embossed the 'W' into. I think the hammer tone I did the covers in blend them in too much, so maybe body colour with black centre wire cover? Otherwise could do silver with wire cover satin black like original? There was even a gold version.
Around the lock area and radiator top cover body colour?
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The very top of the firewall, last 100mm/4" above the pinch weld, will be the olive gold body colour, below that is a firewall pad. The suspension tower brace, runs from one side to the other with the three holes in it, I don't want it to be a main feature, so will be satin black along with the inner guards and back of the grille etc as can't see them anyway.
 
Silver or gold. There is a reason Marcus used the old early Hemi covers. That was to pay homage to the granddaddy of Hemis and emphasize his engine's Hemi heritage. So go full on Marcus and paint silver or gold.

As you're painting most of the engine compartment black, go with black for the radiator piece. Play with sheens. Black has more sheens than other colors. Flat, semi flat, matte, semi gloss, gloss. Personally I'd like to see your engine compartment in any of semi flat, matte or semi gloss.
 
Silver or gold. There is a reason Marcus used the old early Hemi covers. That was to pay homage to the granddaddy of Hemis and emphasize his engine's Hemi heritage. So go full on Marcus and paint silver or gold.

As you're painting most of the engine compartment black, go with black for the radiator piece. Play with sheens. Black has more sheens than other colors. Flat, semi flat, matte, semi gloss, gloss. Personally I'd like to see your engine compartment in any of semi flat, matte or semi gloss.
Yes, going with semi gloss. Will also match the interior leather and dash etc and plan to have the window surrounds done the same. Not looking for a kaleidoscope! :D
 
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Once the chassis was completely painted, I drove 2 hours to the best place that did ceramic coatings on exhaust systems and turbos etc. High Performance Coatings. http://hpc.com.au You can see how the stainless system had already discoloured a lot in the 4000 km I have done.

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I wanted to not only improve the appearance, but get the reduction in heat in the engine bay and under the floors. It also takes out the tinny sound of headers and improves exhaust velocity giving a little extra power. I had them coat even all the clamps to keep everything looking the same.

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The chassis now is fully plumbed for the fuel system and the rear brake lines up to the ABS connections.

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Also the whole cooling system is done along with the powering steering and hydraulic engine fan. As much as possible of the AC system and the complete engine and chassis harness's are all in place. Brake callipers were stripped and new seals and boots fitted where needed. They were also coated in heat proof paint to restore them. Everything is ready to go once the cab and front panels arrive.

Video update:
 
Willys3012.jpg

Once the chassis was completely painted, I drove 2 hours to the best place that did ceramic coatings on exhaust systems and turbos etc. High Performance Coatings. http://hpc.com.au You can see how the stainless system had already discoloured a lot in the 4000 km I have done.

Willys3013.jpg

I wanted to not only improve the appearance, but get the reduction in heat in the engine bay and under the floors. It also takes out the tinny sound of headers and improves exhaust velocity giving a little extra power. I had them coat even all the clamps to keep everything looking the same.

Willys3014.jpg

The chassis now is fully plumbed for the fuel system and the rear brake lines up to the ABS connections.

Willys3015.jpg

Also the whole cooling system is done along with the powering steering and hydraulic engine fan. As much as possible of the AC system and the complete engine and chassis harness's are all in place. Brake callipers were stripped and new seals and boots fitted where needed. They were also coated in heat proof paint to restore them. Everything is ready to go once the cab and front panels arrive.

Video update:

It‘s fun watching you close in on perfection like a jaguar on a yearling, Marcus, but it would be funner to see what you “improve“ should the body shop announce a 45 day delay ;) Thanks for letting us sit in on your master class.
 
From "brewing in my head" to this? Can you ask Lisa to tell us what her response might be the next time you have something "brewing in your head". Amazing build/ vision and amazing support.
Willys3012.jpg

Once the chassis was completely painted, I drove 2 hours to the best place that did ceramic coatings on exhaust systems and turbos etc. High Performance Coatings. http://hpc.com.au You can see how the stainless system had already discoloured a lot in the 4000 km I have done.

Willys3013.jpg

I wanted to not only improve the appearance, but get the reduction in heat in the engine bay and under the floors. It also takes out the tinny sound of headers and improves exhaust velocity giving a little extra power. I had them coat even all the clamps to keep everything looking the same.

Willys3014.jpg

The chassis now is fully plumbed for the fuel system and the rear brake lines up to the ABS connections.

Willys3015.jpg

Also the whole cooling system is done along with the powering steering and hydraulic engine fan. As much as possible of the AC system and the complete engine and chassis harness's are all in place. Brake callipers were stripped and new seals and boots fitted where needed. They were also coated in heat proof paint to restore them. Everything is ready to go once the cab and front panels arrive.

Video update:
 
Sorry to hear about your friend. They're always there and make the best friend you'll ever have. No words can make it better. I lost mine a few years back and I'm still torn up about it. I have a new best friend. Not a replacement, just someone that puts a bright spot in the day.
 
Sorry to hear about your friend. They're always there and make the best friend you'll ever have. No words can make it better. I lost mine a few years back and I'm still torn up about it. I have a new best friend. Not a replacement, just someone that puts a bright spot in the day.
The older I have gotten, the worse it effects me. Been pretty lonely all day at home by myself without him.
 
A little update as dropped by the painters yesterday with my wife.
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In primer ready for final blocking before top coat!

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All coming along very nicely.

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My cab is on its back getting the floor and firewall ready to be painted and Raptor Lining sprayed on.

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This is why you have a test spray out done. The one left in the picture we had done originally and in DeBeer's paint and the right was just done by the painter in Mipa branded paint that they want to use on the Truck. Way different! The original looks the same as the original Harley Davidson colour, supposed to be Olive Gold Pearl, where Mipa's version of the same paint code is much more green and has more sparkle. Not what we are after as too pretty for a truck. Also we are after olive, not green.

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You can also see how the Mipa one on the left loses colour quickly when not in direct sunlight. Something we want to avoid on the truck.

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This is what it is suppose to look like and the DeBeer's version looks spot on.

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So now I am going to see what Mipa's version of Harley Davidson Olive Gold Denim is like with a gloss clear over it, but they haven't the formula for it! It is a lighter version of the other Olive Gold and normally doesn't have a clear over it as is a matt version. I have also the option of ordering and having it painted in the DeBeer's paint, (made in the Netherlands and owned by Valspar), but they feel the quality isn't quite as high as Mipa, (made in Germany). I don't know myself.
 
Yeah tough one, if they are not comfortable spraying DeBeer's, there could be some issues if something does not come out right they claim "we wanted to use Mipa" aside from that.

A few more sprayouts are typically required reguardless of MFG. The canned colors don't usually work and need adjusting at times.

Not knowing if your buying pre mixed DeBeers, who knows what the place mixing the DeBeers really used, it says one thing on the lid, if you need more.will the second batch match.

When the shop makes the color and does the spray out, it winds up the actual color needed.

If there is a conversion of process from DeBeers and Mipa, one is Matte, one is Clear kinda deal, it's going to take a little bit to figure that part out.

Friend owns a high end autobody repair shop and it takes hours and $ to color match at times, but at the expense of someone else, he's not doing anything for free or fun. I bought one of his "personal" trucks he rebuilt and he tracked every dollar and cent like it was a customer's for some reason. To some of us it's crazy to spend 9.5hr doing spray outs, but it made a difference in this case.

If you dial back this level of sprayouts, it just shows to me Mipa will need adjustment to match DeBeers, so make the adjustments if Mipa is the product line. I feel premixed DeBeers is going to need adjustments to match DeBeers.

So multiple sprayouts of the same DeBeers sample will also be needed.

Late 90's I worked as a calibrator and repair of tinting machines and color matching for PPG, Valspar, BEHR, from anything from large Vats of Ink for paper plate MFG, cups, to basic manual tinters at your local Hardware store. Machine to machine and even the location to location the same machine was always custom calibrated many times through out the year to ensure proper mixing and production. It took a while to calibrate these to ensure proper colors based on the labs formulas.

Also worked at the labs calibrating the machines they used to benchmark the colors. It's a neat behind the scenes and the selection of colors always amazes me.

So you have a vision, you have some control in the process, get it closer to what you want.

The bottom post is the guy I'm talking about.

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I think you have seen that Green before, and kept looking for months to find the Harley Olive. I wonder if, as a group, we could find a used part here in the US for them to really adjust to? Would that be helpful? What should we search for? Color, model. I have some connections at the Big dealer level. Never can tell. And gives the mixer a firm goal.
 
Yeah tough one, if they are not comfortable spraying DeBeer's, there could be some issues if something does not come out right they claim "we wanted to use Mipa" aside from that.

A few more sprayouts are typically required reguardless of MFG. The canned colors don't usually work and need adjusting at times.


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Spot on information. Some paint supply stores or painters can NEVER get a perfect paint match. A lost art. Asking a painter to paint with a product that they are not use to is dicey as well. A few years back I needed paint for a repair on my wagon. Non-metallic 2 stage blue. Tried several local shops to no avail. Drove to Phoenix, Las Vegas and Sand Diego chasing info about "This guy is really good". Probably had $1.200 in samples and days worth of time. Finally adjusted it myself. I was trying to blend on to existing paint though, a complete would be a little more forgiving. Whatever you do, make SURE shop boxes the paint you get at least a quart/liter left for future repairs.
 
Here in NorCal, Rod and classic car repair shops are opting to repaint the whole car instead of messing with the matching. In Marcus' case it was an easy miss for him. ...And I agree with his choice to say no. I have confidence he will get it right and not let it go... Gotta start someplace.

Most of us has commented on how bitching the raw look has been. The longer it has been, the more I sub-consciously preferred away from shiney, When Marcus posted the HArley color in a somewhat flatish masculine hue....It was an instant "LIKE." For me. (And hope it never needs that touch-up)
 
Good points guys. :) I want to test out the lighter Olive Gold Denim and had already spoken with the DeBeer's retailer to find out if there was an actually difference in the mix between the two, and not just the matt finish. They went over the two formulas and it was completely different! Also no xirallic added which makes it much less flashy as well. Might be better suited to my truck.

What is a Xirallic paint?


Xirallic - Wikipedia


Xirallic is an alumina effect pigment made of aluminum oxide platelets covered with titanium oxide that shows a strong glitter effect with a distinct shimmering behavior.
 
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