Fuse Panel

Billyswillys

Knuckle Buster
Nov 5, 2010
3
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Howdy,
Does anybody know where the fuse panel is on a '50 wagon? Both of my headlights went out. I still have tail lights and interior/instr. panel lights. I was wondering if it could be a fuse but I can't find a panel. Any help would be appreciated-Bill
 
Bill, I'm not an expert but my 49 did not have a fuse panel. The light switch pull is actually also the fuse (I guess that's how they did things 60 years ago). When I rewired her I got a 6 fuse panel from the boat store and just started over. It works great plus I added more lights, a radio, heater as so forth. You can get a replacement switch or do the upgrade.
 
Mark is correct. No fuse panel. Willys used a a bus bar situated on the inner fender of the driver side. If your headlight switch is original equipment it is of the contact persuasion. Essentially, when you pull the knob the contacts close. If you listen close you'll hear it. Anyhow, it's up to you from this point. Stick with the original bus bar set up, or switch to a fuse panel for all.
Steve
 
You didn't say if just the bright or just the dim beams are out or if both beams are dead.

Get a test light and see if you have power going into the dimmer switch. These things get full of mud, crud and corrosion. If you have power going in then check for power out for both high and low beam. If there's no power going into the dimmer switch, then back track to the headlight switch and test for power in and out. (I'm assuming you have good power into the headlight switch because you said all the other lights work). If the dimmer switch tests good, move to the junction block that should be mounted on the left inner fender near the radiator. It's also vulnerable to corrosion. Again, check for power in and out to both headlights. Last, pull the headlights and check for power at the sockets. One terminal will be ground, one for bright and one for dim. If you've got power all the way to the sockets, then buy new headlight bulbs. You can also bench test the headlight bulbs by using test leads and applying battery power. One terminal will be ground, one high and one low.

Luck,
Old Willy
 
Old Willy said:
You didn't say if just the bright or just the dim beams are out or if both beams are dead.

Get a test light and see if you have power going into the dimmer switch. These things get full of mud, crud and corrosion. If you have power going in then check for power out for both high and low beam. If there's no power going into the dimmer switch, then back track to the headlight switch and test for power in and out. (I'm assuming you have good power into the headlight switch because you said all the other lights work). If the dimmer switch tests good, move to the junction block that should be mounted on the left inner fender near the radiator. It's also vulnerable to corrosion. Again, check for power in and out to both headlights. Last, pull the headlights and check for power at the sockets. One terminal will be ground, one for bright and one for dim. If you've got power all the way to the sockets, then buy new headlight bulbs. You can also bench test the headlight bulbs by using test leads and applying battery power. One terminal will be ground, one high and one low.

Luck,
Old Willy
Thanks- I think I have power to the dimmer switch because the instrument panel dims. I'll check the other stuff but I think the switch is worn out-Bill
 
Bill, the dimmer switch that's being refered to, is the button you step on with the left foot, for hi/low beam selection. If you look under the left (driver's side) toe-board,in the engine compartment, you'll see it tucked under the sheet metal. The power feed to it is the center wire, which should become "hot" when you pull the light switch to on.

Later...

Lee
 
here's a pic. I stuffed the whole spegetti bowl under the dash.[attachment=0:1b7bksla]IMG00097-20100805-1813.jpg[/attachment:1b7bksla]
 

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