Frame Tweaks

pevrs114

Gear Grinder
Jul 28, 2021
8
NC
First Name
Baxter
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1949
Gents,

I am just getting started rebuilding my CJ3A.

I got the frame back from sandblasting, they shot a coat of primer over it to protect it. I've been looking for frame defects to repair before moving forward. I've found one pitted section, one body mount that needs to be redone, one broken weld, and one tear. The tear is on the driver's front frame horn, and it APPEARS that the horn is tweaked a bit inboard.

I've looked through the FSM and the Ludel restoration book, as well as searched some online. I can't find the measurement I'm looking for.

Can y'all help me find the distance between the frame rails at a few spots in the front, including at the shackle mount? This will help me in determining whether it's tweaked. I'm also going to be measuring diagonally, according to the instructions in the FSM.

Once I confirm it's tweaked, any good recommendations for spreading it? I'm thinking a Port-a-Power, no heat, and very slow. Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Gents,

I am just getting started rebuilding my CJ3A.

I got the frame back from sandblasting, they shot a coat of primer over it to protect it. I've been looking for frame defects to repair before moving forward. I've found one pitted section, one body mount that needs to be redone, one broken weld, and one tear. The tear is on the driver's front frame horn, and it APPEARS that the horn is tweaked a bit inboard.

I've looked through the FSM and the Ludel restoration book, as well as searched some online. I can't find the measurement I'm looking for.

Can y'all help me find the distance between the frame rails at a few spots in the front, including at the shackle mount? This will help me in determining whether it's tweaked. I'm also going to be measuring diagonally, according to the instructions in the FSM.

Once I confirm it's tweaked, any good recommendations for spreading it? I'm thinking a Port-a-Power, no heat, and very slow. Thoughts?

Thanks!
When I was tweaking the frame on the fc, I used the porta-power to push, but needed to "pull" to contain the "push" where I wanted it I used four hi-lift jack's. I placed the heads from two upside down on the tops of the other two jack's so I could squeeze in two places while pushing in another. The jack's were placed outside of the frame rails and snugged to keep the frame from spreading where I didn't want it too. Every Jeeper has at least two, but not maybe four hi-lifts That's what jeep buddies are for.
 
With most hydraulic jacks they can be used horizontal with the fill plug up.
I wouldn't place a hook on the bumper end because it will distort the frame channel.
Do securely bolt a bracket which will spread the load of the pulling device (chain). Chain to be bolted on each end securely.

All i carry with me for extraction is my warn winch and hydraulic jacks. I love Hi-Lifts but can cause serious injury when we least expect it. 18-summers of Rubicon Trail and i never ever took my injury-maker Hi-Lift for liability sake. My wife and I always had the 3-kids with us, so I always left the handyman at home sleeping easy that neither of the 3 would be tempted to mess with it.

Metal-to-metal is a injury-maker formula. Even hydraulic jacks can slip, so take wood shims to place between metal jeep and metal jack for grip. I use small 4" sq pieces of 7/16" OSB sheathing scraps.

Let us know how progress is going !
 
Thanks fellas, makes a lot of sense.

I have two Hi Lifts but not four!

The diagrams should be very helpful
 
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