Frame Painting

Tash329

Bigger Hammer
Feb 28, 2011
125
S. Jersey
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Hello---newbie here. I have a question on frame painting. After cleaning the rust from a Willys frame I see that most are in favor of an epoxy base paint. I guess thats applied by paint gun. My question being, if one doesn't have a spray gun setup, could you use a marine 2 part mix of 50/50 epoxy apply by brush over the bare metal and end up with the same results, then top coat it with lets say Zero Rust for more protection?
 
Hi Rich- Welcome to the forum...

Pete
 
Welcome to forum!
I used Rust Bullet primer on my frame. Applied first coat with a brush. First coat was nice an thick but took forever and was difficult to get in all nooks and crannys. Broke out sprayer and applied second coat of primer and finish coated in half the time. Also still have some brush marks I'm a bit disappointed with. Used a small compressor and detail sprayer with air drier.
 
You are on the right track...I have used POR 15 with a brush, roller amd spray...Rust Bullet is a similar product and works just as well. Good Luck, wear gloves unless you like wearing black paint for three weeks.
 
I feel you can brush your paint on with out much problem, I am just going to ask why not spray it? Just to through it out there if you have a project you might benefit from having a compressor after that you could get a $30 or so spray gun from harbor freight or something similar. If it is the overspray I understand. If you are not comfortable spraying paint I would say give it a try it might really help your project. I don't want to offend just something to consider. Either way I am sure it will be great.
 
compyello said:
I feel you can brush your paint on with out much problem, I am just going to ask why not spray it? Just to through it out there if you have a project you might benefit from having a compressor after that you could get a $30 or so spray gun from harbor freight or something similar. If it is the overspray I understand. If you are not comfortable spraying paint I would say give it a try it might really help your project. I don't want to offend just something to consider. Either way I am sure it will be great.


If you read the sheet it requires an airsupplied respirator. That maybe reason enough not to spray? You have to watch this stuff and what you breath in. Safety first, you can't tell I was a shop teacher can you? :|
 
Welcome to the forum.

I am cheap. I cleaned the frame and axles, then used rattle can primer and paint. Multiple coats!!! Easy touch up down the road. Plus there is very little moisture in Colorado and they don't use salt on the roads.

Eric B
 
I agree with 62 OlllO POR 15 is one of the best products out there and pretty economical. Really the product works best when applied with roller and foam brush because it is self leveling product. I have used this on several frames and even on my car trailer. Just need to remember if out in sunlight need to clear coat also. ccaappyy
 
PhxJim...glad you mentioned a respirator when spraying...the paints today will lock your lungs up faster than you can call 911.....and I'm talking from past experience....got two dumb ass awards...slow learner. The Box Fan wouldn't move enough air. :shock: :shock:
 
Thanks everyone for your thoughts! I will most likely go with POR-15 or similar product from the general feelings of most on here. I like the idea of using new products designed for such work and the feed back you all supply. Spraying is an option but I'm now retired and money is a bit tight, otherwise a small spray unit would suit me. This is a semi off frame job. The truck bed will be removed and the old rusty bottom replaced with oak (I'm an oak man). Cleaning will be with wire wheel on a drill at lower spends so not to create much heat and wire brushes. Used to sand blast but the mess was a pain from it. This approach will be used overall as well as electrolysis on small parts. I love electrolysis on pieces up to about 30" x 30", thats my tank size. I also use acid on small parts as well as etching on all metal surfaces.
My thinking on using a marine epoxy was its a simple 50/50 mix and thought it may have the same result as emron or powder coating a frame.


Semper Paratus
Rich
 
POR-15 and KBS (same type of stuff but cheaper) are a water curing epoxy that will pull any reamaining moisture out of the frame and seal it if you follow the directions. KBS has more color options and fixed price shipping I have used them several times and will again. Since you are doing the frame in sections buy several small cans as once the can is opened you only have a few days at the most before the moisture from the air will harden it in the can after opening. Wear gloves as it will not wash off if you let it dry and you will be painted for about a week. They both use a three step process to clean and etch before the paint goes on. Ventilation is a good thing as the zinc etch and the paint can be hard on you in a closed area.

Both sell a kit with all three parts to make it convient KBS includes some rubber gloves and cheap paint brushes, not sure on POR-15. The cheap brushes loose bristles and will leave them in your paint job, but you will not be able to clean the brush when done so don't buy real good ones.
 
cnsay--thanks, I think your approach is best. The kit idea is good because as you said everything I need is in it. Again I'd like to thank everyone for there input, it leads me to a more informed decision.

Semper Paratus
 
62 OlllO said:
PhxJim...glad you mentioned a respirator when spraying...the paints today will lock your lungs up faster than you can call 911.....and I'm talking from past experience....got two dumb ass awards...slow learner. The Box Fan wouldn't move enough air. :shock: :shock:


Ok we will need the full story :eek:
 
Hey all about harbore freight got a couple $15.00 paint guns and when I shoot an epoxie I dump the gun in the trash, hate cleaning the gun after that stuff but for the price who cares.

And yes they sell resporatores too. :beer:
 
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