F134 motor rebuild

zobie

Bigger Hammer
Apr 30, 2013
79
utah
First Name
jeff
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1952
photo (3dfg5).jpgso I have my truck stripped down to the frame and getting ready to inspect and rebuild all of the boxes and the F134 engine.
Before I take the engine to someone to rebuild I would like to hear from those a lot more knowledgeable than me on here as to what a reasonable cost to rebuild this is?
I know that is a pretty general question but I would just like to see what others have had to pay.
I have thought of swaping in a V6 or a newer straight 6 but I kinda like the idea of just keeping it stock.
anyone willing to share there bebuild experences?
 
How much of the rebuild work would you do yourself? When I did my F134 I did most of the assembly and just had the machine shop do the machining and cleaning (well, attempt at cleaning - they didn't do anything to clear the oil galleys). One thing you really should have done is having the connecting rods straightened (or confirm that they are straight). This engine has a 3.125" bore and about a 4.125" stroke - making for a connecting rod around 9" long. Lots of room for twisting and bending.

As for cost - no idea. Did mine piece-meal over 10 years ago so even if I knew the costs from then it's unlikely they'd be relevant today.

On swapping the engine, I'd scrap the idea of a straight 6 - that engine bay isn't made for it. Grill would have to be mutilated or replaced with a later model 6-cylinder grill. Front cross-member may be in the way. And if the engine crowds the firewall, you may need to do some modifications there. The V6 would be better than the straight-6 but you'll not help yourself much with road speed unless you do something about the axle gearing. I'd keep it stock, but without an overdrive you're looking at a MAX of 55mph (a lot of people will tell you 45mph - I've always felt comfortable at 55, others' experience tell them 45). It's not a vehicle to run stock on Interstate or other high-speed lanes.

I have some information on the F134 rebuild at:

http://www.jeep-trucks.com/index.php?page=guide&group=engine&part=f134

And a lot more information can be had at:

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech.html
 
thanks for the info David.
I wanted to have someone else do the rebuild since I haven't rebuilt a motor for 30 years.
the info on the rods is the kind of info I was looking for.

the truck has been sitting since about 1987 but it has been started Occasionally but it smokes a little. the odometer shows 50K
where I live I can do with 55 MPH for what I want the truck for.

i'll read the links too.

thanks

Jeff

 
Jeff,

How much you spend will depend on how much you have done and who does it. It was worth it to me to have my L134 done by a local shop with a first rate reputation because I wanted to retain the original block and head and didn't want anything getting messed up. I knew they were very expensive but they have a lot of experience with Jeep engines. They quoted me $1000 a hole and I can assure you it cost every bit of that and then some due to the extensive need for new parts.

What I have now is an engine with original head and block that has hardened valves and seats for unleaded gas, mostly NOS internal parts (only the original connecting rods were salvageable), is totally balanced and runs as smooth as a butter churn.

This is no doubt at the top end of the price spectrum but I got the result I was looking for. I'm sure if you shop around you can find a competent rebuilder who will do a good job for considerably less.

Here a link to my rebuild thread http://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2400-47-Engine-rebuild

Brian
 
brian
that probably is on the higher end but i do want it done right and i want it to run on this stuff they call gas now.
there are a couple of mechanics close by that do really good work.
thanks that helps.

nice truck by the way

jeff
 
I had my f134 rebuilt. Cost was 1800. Rebored, new pistons,new oil pump,rebuilt water pump,new lifter push rods,new timing gears and new gaskets. That price also included rebuild kit for carb. If you rebuild carb get the kit from one of our vendor sponsors. I was not satisfied with the one from local auto parts. You will also need head bolts or studs. Dwight
 
dwight
thank you that sounds about right from what i have found out from local connections here.

funny i went to a local parts house the other day and the kid at the counter was asking me what i was working on and i told him a willys.
he had never heard of one finally i told him it was a jeep and he knew what that was:confused:
 
Have you started pulling engine yet? I had to do some preperation work before I took block and head in. Removed oil galley plugs,broken studs on exhaust, all fittings from block, will need to resurface flywheel and possible rebalance. also pull motor mount plate so it can be painted. oil pick up will need to be disassembled and cleaned, lots of trash in screen
 
Dwight

no I haven't pulled it yet i'm waiting for an engine hoist that I ordered to be delivered, it should be here today so I plan on pulling it this weekend.
thanks for the the info, good advice.

after watching Brians rebuild on his engine i'm more interested in keeping the Original engine too.
 
Hey Jeff.
I got cut off by timer I think. Take lots of pictures and notes. There were times I had to search for Information about what went where. Check out Mathmans web site. Lots of information. I had to use it several times. Too much time passed between pulling and putting engine back,plus some parts were missing. Dwight
 
thats good advice, and I have been doing just that.
having a phone with a camera on it is pretty handy huh....
 
another bit of advice i would recommend is to ask about a cash discount. i saved a good amount by asking for that. i dont care about getting a receipt and he dont have to pay taxes. it worked out well for the both of us.
 
Another word of wisdom, My 50 is titled by the engine # on the block, when resurfacing the block that can be removed. Make sure the number is stamped back into the surface or numbers will be lost. Could present problems in the future.
 
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