Essential Auto Body Metal Working Tools?

Lookout Ranch

Well Oiled
All-Star
May 9, 2015
9,831
Sierra Foothills
First Name
Kurt
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1957
I’ve never done any automotive metal work to speak of, and I’m curious what tools I might need to tackle a project like a floor pan replacement.

Here’s what I have already:

Small Lincoln wire feed arc welder
Chop/mitre saw for cutting metal (a cheap yard sale find)
Angle grinder
3/8” drill
Sawzall
Small pneumatic reciprocating saw (it’s a shingle cutter but can be fitted with a hacksaw-type blade)
Aviation snips
Misc clamps, vice grips, etc
Compressor (about 5 cfm)

What else would be considered essential or extremely handy for a small projects of that type?

Thanks
 
I’ve never done any automotive metal work to speak of, and I’m curious what tools I might need to tackle a project like a floor pan replacement.

Here’s what I have already:

Small Lincoln wire feed arc welder
Chop/mitre saw for cutting metal (a cheap yard sale find)
Angle grinder
3/8” drill
Sawzall
Small pneumatic reciprocating saw (it’s a shingle cutter but can be fitted with a hacksaw-type blade)
Aviation snips
Misc clamps, vice grips, etc
Compressor (about 5 cfm)

What else would be considered essential or extremely handy for a small projects of that type?

Thanks
For your angle grinder, an assortment of grinding, cutting and wire wheels. Also a flexible mushroom pad utilizing different grit discs for smoothing.
Spotweld cutter.
 
What job do you have in mind, and how big a roll of $100,s? Hammers, dollys, pry bars, slap files, shrink hammers, porta powers, ect, no shortage of tools to buy. My prize tools are from ww2 to shape aircraft skin. The hard part is to learn to shrink metal not stretch....WA7OPY
 
What job do you have in mind, and how big a roll of $100,s? Hammers, dollys, pry bars, slap files, shrink hammers, porta powers, ect, no shortage of tools to buy. My prize tools are from ww2 to shape aircraft skin. The hard part is to learn to shrink metal not stretch....WA7OPY

Thanks, I mainly have two projects in mind for my ‘55 wagon — replacing floor pans and filling a number of holes drilled in the body by previous owners for heaven knows what purpose, holes that range from 1/8” to 3/8”.

As for the floor pans, I’m curious, what is typically used to cut out the old ones and to cut the new ones to fit?
 
Having done this, a air cutoff tool that has a 3" round abrasive disk was the tool of choice working on my sheet metal. I could draw out templates on file folder thick paper, transpose onto the sheet metal and the cutoff tool was about as easy as using the sissors.
1568802366714.png
 
The holes are easy, clean all the paint around the hole, grind any burrs on the back side of the hole, buy a 1/4 inch by 2 6inch long piece of copper buss bar ( go to the scrap yard) Copper needs to be shiny, clamp the copper behind the hole tight (2 vice grips) and have your mig set right, quickly weld in the hole.. holding the heat on the tin not the copper ( the weld will not stick to the copper and the weld will shrink the panel) Grind flat and you are done.

The floor is a bit harder and there is no set way:
  • Clean the floor and see what is good and weldable, (you can not weld rust and dirt)
  • I like to overlay the floor with the new plate ( you can buy a patch panel or do like I do and make one from 18ga steel), but that will trap water under the new floor.
  • If I overlay, I will bolt some of it in and weld the rest.
  • If the floor is totaled I will remove all the bad, repair the hat channels and weld in the new floor watertight (10 times the work).
  • Then I paint and undercoat the repair.
  • To remove the old floor drill out the spot welds with the smallest drill you can, bolt the new floor down with these holes and when the floor is tight, skip weld the outer sides then use the copper trick and weld the bolt hole one at a time starting on the outside working in.
  • To repair the hat channels, make friends with a sheet metal shop and bend up new ones from 16 ga steel, cut and fit one piece at a time if they are real bad only remove one at a time so you don't forget where they go and keep them flat and in plane before you weld them!!!

There are so many variables, it is not a hard job you just have to keep your head and have a plan....WA7OPY
 
Having done this, a air cutoff tool that has a 3" round abrasive disk was the tool of choice working on my sheet metal. I could draw out templates on file folder thick paper, transpose onto the sheet metal and the cutoff tool was about as easy as using the sissors.
View attachment 62534
Air is the way to go. They typically run at about 90 psi. However, the compressor you have at your disposal at 5 cfm would be severely taxed in providing constant air pressure. It will slow down to the point it's not even worth using, and the compressor will be running the entire time you're using it and beyond. It'll work...but not very well. It was the main reason I scrapped my small compressor and went huge. A 4" makita/de walt/ryobi or any angle grinder will do the same thing. I have several, all fitted with different wheels. As well as air.
 
I have a large bench vice. I use it on metal projects all the time. I have a Sheetmetal brake from eastwood but I can't remember the last time I used it. I use a jig saw all the time too.
 
Sheet metal butt clamps, welding magnetic jigs, Blair 11096 Spot Weld Cutter Set, UPOL WELD#2 WELD THROUGH PRIMER, LORD FUSOR 108 Panel adhesive
 
Safety goggles that wrap around and come all the way to the skin all the way around. Lots of grinding = lots of fast-moving, very small bits of metal. When they get in your eye it really, really sucks........

I call mine "my Superman glasses" and never fire up the various grinders without putting them on any more.
 
Back
Top