Door seal question

NOBLNG said:
On the door seal that I have there is one long leg and one shorter leg. I will be installing it with the base glued to the lip around the door and the longer leg glued to the door jamb. The shorter leg will make the seal when closed. Does this sound correct? View attachment 53454
Click to expand...

It's a little hard to tell from the angle at which your picture is taken, but I think you have it right.
 
Ok here is what I have. Pic 1 is the old original seal attached to the door, and I have no doubt this is the original seal. Pic 2 is the new seal I received from Walcks,, it has the same long and short sides. Pic 3 is the old seal after I cut a section from the way it was glued on. Pic 4 is the new seal in the way it should be attached, short side and bottom glued to the door and long side facing the cab. I hope this helps, I know it helps me. This is the drivers side door that i'm not using but was lucky that the old seal was still attached. I am 99% sure these are the original seals. So according to what I have Greg what you are showing would be reverse of what I have, I think. Good luck!!:)20180917_154807.jpg20180917_154746.jpg20180917_155111.jpg20180917_154938.jpg
 
Last edited:
Okay, it seems there are a few different seals in use. In this pic is...Left=what was on my truck when I got it and assumed it was stock. Middle=a generic one from JC Whitney I used on the passenger side. Right=the one I just got from Kaiser Willys. (I do obviously have it backwards in my previous post) The other pic is a 3/4"x1/4" neoprene self adhesive gasket that I used on the drivers side.(Just to show the amount of compression
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4538.JPG
    IMG_4538.JPG
    89.2 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_3010.JPG
    IMG_3010.JPG
    141 KB · Views: 49
Last edited:
Willymakit said:
. Pic 4 is the new seal in the way it should be attached, short side and bottom glued to the door and long side facing the cab. I hope this helps, I know it helps me. This is the drivers side door that i'm not using but was lucky that the old seal was still attached. I am 99% sure these are the original seals. So according to what I have Greg what you are showing would be reverse of what I have, I think. Good luck!!:)View attachment 53464
Click to expand...

I think you have that wrong Steve... Yes short side and bottom glued to the door, but oriented like this. IMG_4542.JPG

Edit: Ok, I guess I'm wrong. It doesn't seem like there is enough clearance for it though.
 
Last edited:
Maybe, but i'm holding the new Walcks seal in pic 2 actually backwards from the way the original ones were glued on. All I did was cut through the old seal in pic 3 and lift it straight up. Sorry if its confusing but i'm pretty sure these are original to this truck. I bought this truck from a junkyard many years ago and I don't think anyone had spent any money on any type of restoration for it. Any where you could put a cotter pin there was a nail or a piece of coat hanger. Whoever the PO was he was pretty cheap. LOL!:eek:
 
OK I took one more pic to show a better view of the way the old seal is attached and the new seal sitting on top of it the way it is should be glued, at least the way I will be gluing mine. Hope this is a little clearer. I think the groove is designed to channel water away from the cab. There is a little difference in the length of the long side on the new seal compared to the old original but the old one is almost 60 yrs. old!!!20180918_112225.jpg
 
Thanks for the link Ellis. I thought my old seals were on correctly and I was going in the right direction, but that was a very good picture.:cool:
 
I hope that this helps the attachment above from Ellis is also what I used for mine from Kaiser Willys website, I found the hardest place to get the glue and seal to bond was down the front edge around the hinge in hindsight I would have taken the doors completely off and done it that way.

Also make sure that when you do the bottom that you leave the 2 door drain slots open and run the seal around them.

I also did mine a section at a time glue and hold it in place for a few minutes until it sets and then go onto the next stage as it also allows you to stretch it out a little and cover the whole door.
 

Attachments

  • Weatherstrip_664695_675289_666945.pdf
    254.9 KB · Views: 45
Last edited:
Thanks Doug, I have my doors removed for painting and have finished painting them so I will glue my seals on before I put them back on. Thanks for the tip about doing them a section at a time. I was worried about the glue getting to dry trying to do it all at once.
 
Thanks for the link Joe, that helps. The glue I ordered is 3M 1357 in a pint can and it has to be applied with a small brush, but I think it works the same. It's been so hot here lately I haven't tried to glue anything, hoping for some cooler weather.:rolleyes:
 
I have just glued my seal onto the passenger door using the 3M black adhesive.
DISCLAIMER: I have gone contrary to the advice here AND the installation sketch on the Kaiser Willys site! The recess on the cab is only about 5/16" deep and the lip of the door plus the seal lip have to sit in there. You can see in the first pic below (recommended method) that the seal would make initial contact way before the door is closed. In the second pic (the way I installed it), the seal will still be able to make contact when the door is closed. It just seems (in my mind) to make more sense this way. I have yet to install the door, but will let you all know how well it operates and seals shortly.
Sorry for hi-jacking your thread Steve, but I figure it's better for future searchers.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4623.JPG
    IMG_4623.JPG
    91 KB · Views: 61
  • IMG_4625.JPG
    IMG_4625.JPG
    88.7 KB · Views: 61
That's ok Greg, if I have learned anything from this build it's that you try and accumulate all the info you can and then make the decision that you feel is best for you.
 
NOBLNG said:
I have just glued my seal onto the passenger door using the 3M black adhesive.
DISCLAIMER: I have gone contrary to the advice here AND the installation sketch on the Kaiser Willys site! The recess on the cab is only about 5/16" deep and the lip of the door plus the seal lip have to sit in there. You can see in the first pic below (recommended method) that the seal would make initial contact way before the door is closed. In the second pic (the way I installed it), the seal will still be able to make contact when the door is closed. It just seems (in my mind) to make more sense this way. I have yet to install the door, but will let you all know how well it operates and seals shortly.
Sorry for hi-jacking your thread Steve, but I figure it's better for future searchers.
Click to expand...
It's a bit hard for me to tell the orientation from the photos. Can you post a picture taken from a slightly farther distance or from a different angle that includes a familiar landmark on the door?
 
First picture will work better as the thinner 'tongue' is designed to flatten as the door closes. The extra flexibility will take up any irregularities in the depth of the door and B pillar jam depth. You might not even be able to close it flush the other way.
 
Lookout Ranch said:
It's a bit hard for me to tell the orientation from the photos. Can you post a picture taken from a slightly farther distance or from a different angle that includes a familiar landmark on the door?
Click to expand...
Both pics are on the drivers side cab. The bolt holes you see are where the strike plate attaches.

Gojeep said:
First picture will work better as the thinner 'tongue' is designed to flatten as the door closes. The extra flexibility will take up any irregularities in the depth of the door and B pillar jam depth. You might not even be able to close it flush the other way.
Click to expand...
In the first pic, the seal would form a "U" and the legs would squash together when closed. In the second pic the seal forms an "L" with the longer leg flattening out as the door is closed. Being able to close it flush is what I was worried about if the recommended orientation is used.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top