DIY 20' by 24' Garage.

Finished up the day at the mill. We got the last of the lumber package milled today. 42 2x6 rafters 19 feet long out of one log. + a few extra 2x4"s that went to a friend for a chicken coop.
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Nice load of lumber. Some of them have no knots at all.
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Happy 4th of July everyone.
The concrete has been curing for about 2 weeks. Tomorrow the fun begins.

The trailer is loaded with all the framing members. 2x4 braces, & 2x6, studs 4x6, & 4x12 headers. 6x6 posts and 6x12 beams. The building is 20ft wide and 24ft deep. It will be a single pitch shed roof style. The back wall will be 8ft with 2x6 stud framing. At 8ft and 16ft it will have 6x6 post in metal brackets holding up 6"x12" beams that span the entire 20ft width. Post are 8'6" and 10' tall with 6x12 beams in Simpson hangers.. Side wall are not bearing but will still be 2x6 stud framing with 4' windows in each section. The front wall will be 12' high with a 12' roll up door offset, with a 6' shear wall on one side and 2' on the other. Man door will be on one side leading to BBQ patio.
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The biggest problem I see is getting the 6x12" x 21ft beams off the trailer and staged on the slab. I loaded them with my tractor. Once the truck and trailer are backed up to the slab I can't get the tractor where it needs to be to lift them. They will have to be man powered into place, then the truck and trailer will have to be moved out of the way in order to lift them with the tractor up and onto the 6x6 post. Just a bit of logistics to deal with.
 
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Happy 4th of July everyone.
The concrete has been curing for about 2 weeks. Tomorrow the fun begins.

The trailer is loaded with all the framing members. 2x4 braces, & 2x6, studs 4x6, & 4x12 headers. 6x6 posts and 6x12 beams. The building is 20ft wide and 24ft deep. It will be a single pitch shed roof style. The back wall will be 8ft with 2x6 stud framing. At 8ft and 16ft it will have 6x6 post in metal brackets holding up 6"x12" beams that span the entire 20ft width. Post are 8'6" and 10' tall with 6x12 beams in Simpson hangers.. Side wall are not bearing but will still be 2x6 stud framing with 4' windows in each section. The front wall will be 12' high with a 12' roll up door offset, with a 6' shear wall on one side and 2' on the other. Man door will be on one side leading to BBQ patio.
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The biggest problem I see is getting the 6x12" x 21ft beams off the trailer and staged on the slab. I loaded them with my tractor. Once the truck and trailer are backed up to the slab I can't get the tractor where it needs to be to lift them. They will have to be man powered into place, then the truck and trailer will have to be moved out of the way in order to lift them up and onto the 6x6 post. Just a bit of logistics to deal with.
I would volunteer to help but the airfare is a bit steep. And a good chance you only get 1 way
 
Happy 4th of July everyone.
The concrete has been curing for about 2 weeks. Tomorrow the fun begins.

The trailer is loaded with all the framing members. 2x4 braces, & 2x6, studs 4x6, & 4x12 headers. 6x6 posts and 6x12 beams. The building is 20ft wide and 24ft deep. It will be a single pitch shed roof style. The back wall will be 8ft with 2x6 stud framing. At 8ft and 16ft it will have 6x6 post in metal brackets holding up 6"x12" beams that span the entire 20ft width. Post are 8'6" and 10' tall with 6x12 beams in Simpson hangers.. Side wall are not bearing but will still be 2x6 stud framing with 4' windows in each section. The front wall will be 12' high with a 12' roll up door offset, with a 6' shear wall on one side and 2' on the other. Man door will be on one side leading to BBQ patio.
View attachment 122959View attachment 122960
The biggest problem I see is getting the 6x12" x 21ft beams off the trailer and staged on the slab. I loaded them with my tractor. Once the truck and trailer are backed up to the slab I can't get the tractor where it needs to be to lift them. They will have to be man powered into place, then the truck and trailer will have to be moved out of the way in order to lift them with the tractor up and onto the 6x6 post. Just a bit of logistics to deal with.
You need those fat 2x6 side walls for insulation!
 
You need those fat 2x6 side walls for insulation!
100lbs static snow load is the main reason.
And we are framing with Ponderosa Pine. If we had Doug Fir I would go with 2x4 walls and 2x6 on 16" center rafters with 4x4 post and 4x12 beams. Using pine I like to go overkill. Rafters will be 2x6 on 12" center
 
That is a sturdy looking trailer with a nice load of materials.
"Papers? We Don't Need No Stinking Papers!"

But we do have our own lumber stamp if needed. It says "Gold Run Mill Construction and Better.". The last time I used it was on my shop the 12ft Doug fir 2x6 studs had no visible knots and the inspector said." Who you trying to fool with a Con&better stamp. This stuff is beyond #1, I'd call it Architectual grade."

Too bad it's got a bent axle and tears up one tire on the Hwy.

The 2x6s dried nice and straight, but the 2x4s twisted up so I put them on the bottom to try and flatten them back out. Some trees dry nice and straight and others make boom arranges and archery bows. Luckily we decided not to frame even the non bearing side walls in 2x4. they will just be post and wall bracing and possibly angle bracing for shear. Maybe some blocking.
 
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"Papers? We Don't Need No Stinking Papers!"

But we do have our own lumber stamp if needed. It says "Gold Run Mill Construction and Better.". The last time I used it was on my shop the 12ft Doug fir 2x6 studs had no visible knots and the inspector said." Who you trying to fool with a Con&better stamp. This stuff is beyond #1, I'd call it Architectual grade."

Too bad it's got a bent axle and tears up one tire on the Hwy.

The 2x6s dried nice and straight, but the 2x4s twisted up so I put them on the bottom to try and flatten them back out. Some trees dry nice and straight and others make boom arranges and archery bows. Luckily we decided not to frame even the non bearing side walls in 2x4. they will just be post and wall bracing and possibly angle bracing for shear. Maybe some blocking.
Do you need some axels? I have a couple sets waiting for me to find some free steel for my next car trailer.....
 
I got all the tools loaded and made it to my Son's place about 9:00AM. He had the gate open and I backed down to the slab. The 6x6 post came off first and we cut them to length, stood them in their Simpson brackets and trussed every thing up good and plum with 2x4's
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We cross braced the post and locked them in plum in both directions. All bracing was done with screws so it will come back apart once the framing is done.
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The next step was to unload the 6x12 beams. Luckily they had dried out and lost a lot of their weight. We did the layout for rafters on 12" centers. In 100 lbs snow load area, I would use 16" centers with Doug Fir, but since we are using Pine we spaced them closer together.
After the layout was done, we screwed the Simpson H1 Rafter ties to the beams.
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That got us through to lunch. My Son smoked some mean burgers. After lunch we got a friend with a Bobcat tracked loader with forks to stop by and set the beams. On the front 10 ft post we had to use the cutoff ends of the beams to raise the beam 12 " so the little Bobcat could reach.
More Simpson hardware and the beams were secured to the posts.
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The next step was the back wall. We actually framed it in two 10ft 2"x6" sections with a 19'6" 2x6 top plate to lock the two together,
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Time for a little relaxation. My Son and I talking about window and doors before we continue on.
Not a bad day's work for two old mechanics.
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