Distributor adaptor/mount repair


Precision Fit
Oct 23, 2009
Citrus Heights & Tahoe
First Name
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1954
I am working with the original distributor and mount for L226 6v
Putting the basket case back togteher and removed distributor too paint head. In doing so noticed the ear where mounting bolt attaches distributor adpator/mount to head was loose and actually separated (broken off) only thew bolts and washer may have been holding this in place. Looks like it had previuosly been a problem as is sign of earlier tack weld on one side of ear. Wheover did it didn't do a very good job.

Now my questions.... :?
Is the mount aluminum or pot metal?
Can it be welded back together succesfully? If so, I assume I have to remove adaptor from distributor before the weld?
If I do need to separate to weld does anyone know how adpator is removed from distributor? Are there rebuild instructions somehwere on line?



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This is a really common issue. It's a pot metal of sorts. I'm of the understanding that a life long proficient welder can stich it back together, but I have yet to find one. I know that cast metals such as exhaust manifolds can be welded with a high nickel content, by a competent welder, so I would assume the same is true here, but the search goes on.

As with any problem; good luck and let us know what you come up with.
Buying some high nickle rod will set you back over 30.00 a pound so use that to help decide the costs of do it yourself vs taking to someone. Could find someone to braze it back together, have seen things gas welded that were impossible to fix any other way. I do not know what the metal is (don't have a 226) but a good machine shop should be able to repair or know who can.
Thanks for replies. Took distributor apart to point where weights are exposed but can't get shaft out or adapter/mount off. Can I have it welded or will heat ruin it? Is JB Weld an option? Never have used it...
homewood4 said:
Thanks for replies. Took distributor apart to point where weights are exposed but can't get shaft out or adapter/mount off. Can I have it welded or will heat ruin it? Is JB Weld an option? Never have used it...

If it were me, I would weight the cost of the repair with replacing it all-together. I plan to buy an electronic ignition distributor from Kaiser/Willys when I can scrape up the cash. I had a GM mini HEI distributor on my '50 Plymouth flathead six, and I couldn't believe how much better it ran. It would start before I could get my hand off the key, got better mpg's, better acceleration, etc. It was well worth the cost and was trouble free for the 17,000 miles I put on it before I sold the car.

I read someplace that a HEI from a chevy 250 6-cyl engine is very easily adapted to the willys engine. I remember something about you need to use the drive gear off the Willys dist and shorten the shaft on the Chevy dist. The article I read stated the distrubutor will almost just drop in. I plan on trying that with mine if (when) I get the engine back in it. I am a big fan of JB weld, the worst thing that would happen is it won't work and it only costs around $5 to try it.
The GM HEI swap is not as easy as a drop in, I did it and it works great, made a noticable difference However, the GM distributor turns opposite of the 226 so you'll need to flop the guts over and also the vacuum advance can, you'll also need to shorten the housing and the shaft but the housing is the same size as the 226 distributor and the drive has the same shaft diameter. I made a distributor mount out of heavier aluminium and had a guy at work tig weld it up for me so it's alittle beefier since the GM distributor is bigger and has the coil in the cap I figured it should have a little more support. It's been running great for several years now. If I ever learn how to post pictures I could show what I did, it's not really hard but it is a bit of messing around.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Being tragically mechanically challenged I want to stay away from mods...basically a restore only anyway...

Update...After taking the broken adaptor to a couple machine shops, two welders, some internet sites and a run by J&W Jeep Recyclers in Roseville I have been told that:
The adaptor is aluminum
The adpator is pot metal
We head a flathead 6 in here last week but shipped it to someone back east
Good luck finding one
Pot metal cannot be welded without great probability of reducing it to a pile of metal (very low melting point)

Just when all hope was lost the miracle of E-Bay produced one for sale last night. Almost cost more than the whole truck did but then......Its a WILLYS! I'll skip the beer for a few weeks!