disc brake conversion

I used this on my 1951 M38 and it works great. You talk about stopping power. I will be swapping in a Dana 44 Scout II front end under it within a year...I will pull the conversion and put it on my 58 4x4 wagon. Already starting the Herm-the-Overdrive-Dude dual master cylinder upgrade on the wagon. I had to modify the bolt holes to make it fit the wagon frame just right.

Dan
 
I just bought the dual master from Herm as well, haven't put it on yet. I am curious to see how the install goes. I also got a front disc conversion that isn't on yet either. Hopefully they will be on in the next couple of weeks. Did anybody do the remote reservoir? I am thinkning of putting that on as well, seems like getting to the master cylinder to check and top off fluid is not going to be fun. Kind of wanted to hear from someone else on the remote res though before I drill into a brand new master cover for the hose on the remote......
 
I thought about the remote res but got to thinking...all that work and I'll check it just as much as I do on my wife's 2006 Rubicon...maybe every 6 months or so. I figure I can deal with alittle pain in the butt to check it on the frame. The firewall will look more original also.
 
I will need to shorten one side. That'll be a pain. I have to grind to pull the knuckle-cut the tube-hammer the knuckle back on and degree-weld-send the axle shaft off to have shortened and resplined. I really want to keep the same wms as the original axle. But this is for a Flatfender. I've read that they will fit under a wagon with no problem. If I stop by the shop tomorrow I will measure the spring perch to spring perch and then the WMS to WMS and repost.

I'll have to compare the wagon set up verses the Scout set up and let you know on the steering.
 
while you are half way, remove the other knuckle. Add equal caster and weld them both.


Dan Markey said:
I will need to shorten one side. That'll be a pain. I have to grind to pull the knuckle-cut the tube-hammer the knuckle back on and degree-weld-send the axle shaft off to have shortened and resplined. I really want to keep the same wms as the original axle. But this is for a Flatfender. I've read that they will fit under a wagon with no problem. If I stop by the shop tomorrow I will measure the spring perch to spring perch and then the WMS to WMS and repost.

I'll have to compare the wagon set up verses the Scout set up and let you know on the steering.
 
I will. That way I don't need to put shims under the pads or use the special insert for the balljoint.
 
I will. That way I don't have to put shims under the spring pads or install the special inserts for the balljoints.
 
Imposter71 Can't say much about the remote brake reservoir for Herm's MC except that there is a vent in the lid that will have to be closed off for the remote to work. Check the lid and you will see that there is a small 'passage' pressed into it so that air can move.... that passage will have to be closed off. If you want to see how the brake upgrade turned out on our '65 wagon go to my website:
http://www.members.shaw.ca/pavelb/brakes.html

Good luck with your work

Pavel
 
Thanks. I may add it later on, we'll see if I think it is really needed.

I am going to have a local shop do my conversion. I enjoy trying stuff myself but I think this is a little beyond what I have in tools and abilities right now. Plus I have an 11 yr old that I am going to have in it a lot and I feel safer letting a shop handle the brakes until I have more experience. Shop is about 3 miles from my house. Have seen a willys truck there before, and they have a 60's vette, T-Bird, 59 El Camino, and 32 ford up there so they have at least done some old cars. They also agreed to me taking photos while it is in process so I will post a new thread when they get started. Should be this week I hope, wish me luck. It is hard for me to find someone I feel I can trust to do these things, seems like lots of places either want nothing to do with it or think that beacause you have a old car you have plenty of money laying around and price things that way.

I need to find a old retired mechanic that is bored and likes cars...........

with a huge garage........

and a garage fridge full of beverages......... :mrgreen:
 
Scotty t: glad to be of help. If you discover any important details about the front disc brake conversion that I could incorporate into my website. Please contact me so that I can update it.

If you decide to use different wheels than the stock 16 inchers, please keep everyone informed. I haven't been able to find a nice looking steel wheel that will clear the disc brake calipers yet, so I'm using the SpiderTrax spacers.

Best of luck with your work!

Pavel6
 
the wheels i'm planing to use are old 15x8 kelsy hayes steelys from an old wagon i found in the junk yard. they look like factory jeep wheels that i have seen on old cj5s. i hope they fit!!!
 
Scotty the 15's will fit! Have a set on mine with 205-70-15 tires. The 5-5.5" bolt pattern real common in older steel rims. The hard thing to find are the "inny" type rims for the Willys dog dish covers. Lots of "outtys" in the junk yards.
 
Mark:

Could you explain a bit more about "dog dish covers", innies and outties? I do know something about belly buttons and wheel offsets... It is getting more difficult to find useful wheels in junk yards - everything seems to be going to the 'squasher' - I have to drive up to 75 miles to find any old vehicles these days, so I'd like to know what to look for in advance! Can you suggest which oldies might have 15" wheels I can use on our wagon?

Thanks

Pavel
 
I found a set of 15x5x5.5 on a late '80s 3/4 ton Dodge Van. They were aftermarket "wagon" wheels, so I didn't really look for innie or outie for hubcaps. Two cans of Krylon Flat Black and they look good.

John
 
"Dog Dish" is what they used to call hubcaps similar to the "Moony" dish type hubcaps. The have a set on "The Jeepster Man" web site for a price. The rims from a late Chevy will work on the 5 lug-5.5" bolt pattern of the Willys hub. Some early Dodge rims work too but be sure to mesure the bolt pattern to the 5.5". Don't currently have pics of rims but will get this weekend if "innies and outties". I'll try to describe: on the outties there will be 3-4 formed tabs past the center formed ring in the center past the lug holes; the innies have the tabs on the inside of the center ring just past the lug holes. The "Dog Dish" sold by The Jeepster Man (you can google) require the "innie" style rims. The keepers that they sell seperately for the dog dish require you to have "innie" rims.
Now if that is as clear as mud....I'll get some pics up this weekend! :cool:

pavel6 said:
Mark:

Could you explain a bit more about "dog dish covers", innies and outties? I do know something about belly buttons and wheel offsets... It is getting more difficult to find useful wheels in junk yards - everything seems to be going to the 'squasher' - I have to drive up to 75 miles to find any old vehicles these days, so I'd like to know what to look for in advance! Can you suggest which oldies might have 15" wheels I can use on our wagon?

Thanks

Pavel
 
John, Krylon is a good paint, but Rustolem is the closest paint that has the same componet break down as the same paint used from 1915-1978, but with a lower lead contient and it provides a rust berrior as well.
Just incase anyone was wondering. :D
Mark

number6jr said:
I found a set of 15x5x5.5 on a late '80s 3/4 ton Dodge Van. They were aftermarket "wagon" wheels, so I didn't really look for innie or outie for hubcaps. Two cans of Krylon Flat Black and they look good.

John
 
pavel6 said:
Mark:

Could you explain a bit more about "dog dish covers", innies and outties? I do know something about belly buttons and wheel offsets... It is getting more difficult to find useful wheels in junk yards - everything seems to be going to the 'squasher' - I have to drive up to 75 miles to find any old vehicles these days, so I'd like to know what to look for in advance! Can you suggest which oldies might have 15" wheels I can use on our wagon?

Thanks

Pavel

Pavel, hope these pics come out. notice the "Flange" on the inner part or the rim, there are "Tangs" along the flange, the tangs are inside the "innie"[attachment=1:1zitnz7k]innie-rim.jpg[/attachment:1zitnz7k] and outside the "Outtie"[attachment=0:1zitnz7k]outtie-rim.jpg[/attachment:1zitnz7k]
 

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