Well Oiled
Aug 16, 2010
St. George / Ivins ,Utah
First Name
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1956
I am in the process of either changing my front differential which is a Dana 27 with drums, I just have to have disks and have found many articles about making this change. Another artical I read indicated the Dana 30 has a tighter turning radious which would also be a great improvement if that is true, I would appreciate some input suggestion or thinking of any kind.
Two more questions I found a pair of differentials from a 74 Scout II (dana 30 front w/disks and Dana 44 rear w/drums) and if they are basically the same wheelbase as what I have it might make sense to change.
Last question: will the spindels from a Dana 30 w/open knuckle fit on my Dana 27 w/closed knuckle? Any thoughts and opinions would be so appreciated.

If the Scout II axles are about the same width it may be the cheapest and easiest way to get disc brakes up front. Are the axle ratios a good match for your tire size? If not that may make it costly to change.

Nice looking truck, welcome to the forums.
The Scout II axles are a popular swap in the 4X4 trucks and wagons. The issue is moving the spring perches. They are off track by roughly 3/4". some people say screw it and force the springs out to mate up. Not smart. Of all the axles out there used in swaps, the Scout II's are probably the best option.
This link has some pretty good info. I snipped a small portion for ya regarding the scout axles. I think someone else here was having issues with the lack of caster. This link I think is specific to dana 44 but might be the same for the others. Something to look at before you drop some money on an axle.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/c ... 44/fsj-cj/

"I don't reccomend Scout II housings for several reasons. The primary reason is that Scout II housongs have zero caster, except for a very few produced in 1980 with 3 degrees of caster. For comparison, a Wagoneer housing typically has 7 degrees of caster. Caster helps the vehicle track straight down the road and gives the steering system it's ability to return to center on it's own. The caster problem could be fixed by cutting loose both knuckles and turning them, but it is much easier to just start with a Wagoneer housing. Another drawback to the Scout II housing is the long steering arms which require a very long Scout II pitman arm to get a full turning radius. It's easier for most CJ owners to just use CJ outers or 1/2 ton outers. A third drawback is that Scout II housings can only esily accomodate 2" wide springs and Spring Under suspensions, a major drawback for hardcore Jeepers."
My 2 cents:

You already have a running/driving kinda stopping truck right?

Skip the hassel of the axle swap and do the front disc conversion for the Dana 27 I wrote up in the tech section. If you want me to email you the parts list to help I can. Truth be told it was straight forward and easy, plus I picked up a couple tips to help ya out.
Good sound advice....I got carried way with my project, thinking like "Tim Allen" - bigger/better - Dana 44's...you have a good look'en rig...
Thank you all for your replys, It really tickles me to have found this forum that has a bunch of people that are crazy about these wonderful old vehicles.

Eric, yes it does drive, just doesn't stop worth a toot. The disks on the front will make a tremendous difference I am sure.
Thanks for offering to share your knowledge, emailed you my info.

Nobody commented on wheather the Dana 30 Callopers & Calloper mounts will fit on the Dana 27. If that was the case it would sure be easier to find all the parts on one dif.