D18 front seal question, and rear diff yoke "shield" thing

Wuchoo tocnbowt

Bigger Hammer
Oct 22, 2017
67
Fortuna California
First Name
Curt
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1962
Figured I'd ask these questions before resorting to figuring them out.

1. Can the front output seal on a dana18 be replaced without dropping the tc? (It appears that removing the yoke will provide access)

2. Right behind the yoke of the rear diff (d44) is a dust shield plate thing. A quick google search shows the part on diagrams, but they all leave it unmarked/unnamed. Regardless of the correct name, mine rattles around and seems loose. How is it supposed to be secured?


Thanks in advance!
 
Curt
I will try to answer your questions.
1. You probably can change out the seal, but what a PIA. I never heard of anyone who did try that.
2. The dust cap just taps (hammers) onto a flange face made for that purpose. Yours probably got hit and came loose. Take the rear axle flange off and tack weld it on, or replace it with another used one that fits tighter.
3. Check the faces of both flanges, if they are damaged (scored) You might want to install a speedy sleeve. You might as well check the transfer case output (rear) at the same time.
4.And maybe install a new countershaft and needle bearing set.
Looks like you are pulling the transfer case, doesn't it? It's not bad to do that.
Good Luck!
diggerG
 
I have changed that seal out in situ several times. Not that difficult IIRC. You may have to put a floor jack under the transmission, remove the cross member and then lower the assembly down a little for access.

I am not a fan of speedy sleeves. They are a temporary fix at best. If there is a groove in the yolk deep enough to leak then the thin sleeve will quickly deform into it and leak again. Your choices are to install the seal so it rides in a slightly different area, install 2 thinner seals, buy a new yolk, or have the old one ground, hard chromed and reground to specs. I always do the latter. It is a lifetime fix. Diggers is correct about rebuilding the intermediate gear with a new shaft, bearings and thrush washer at this point. Easy to do in situ, especially if you have the cross member dropped. The whole job is a half day at the most and not very expensive.
 
I am not a fan of speedy sleeves. They are a temporary fix at best. If there is a groove in the yolk deep enough to leak then the thin sleeve will quickly deform into it and leak again.

I'm just a thrifty guy thinking out loud. Would it solve the deformation issue if you fill in the groove with some JB Weld prior to putting on the speedy sleeve?
 
I am not a fan of speedy sleeves. They are a temporary fix at best. If there is a groove in the yolk deep enough to leak then the thin sleeve will quickly deform into it and leak again.

I'm just a thrifty guy thinking out loud. Would it solve the deformation issue if you fill in the groove with some JB Weld prior to putting on the speedy sleeve?

Yes it would. That fix has been around for a long, long time. You need to fill the groove and then sand it smooth prior to installing the speedy sleeve. Another tip is to set the sleeve on a 100W light bulb for a while so it expands just enough to ease the installation.
 
Yes it would. That fix has been around for a long, long time. You need to fill the groove and then sand it smooth prior to installing the speedy sleeve. Another tip is to set the sleeve on a 100W light bulb for a while so it expands just enough to ease the installation.
Yeah now that it’s sunk a bit, I think I heard about it here first.
 
Can anyone explain how to remove/replace the front output seal on a d18?

I currently have it down to the front bearing cap, just need to know if i pull it out the front, or if the snap ring, output shaft bearing, etc. need to be removed and it comes out from behind them.

Thanks in advance!
 
I may be getting senile, but all I remember is: Take the nut off, pull the yoke, pull the seal with a suitable seal puller. Tap a new seal in, put some RTV on the yolk splines and put it back in with the nut. All done from the outside.
 
I may be getting senile, but all I remember is: Take the nut off, pull the yoke, pull the seal with a suitable seal puller. Tap a new seal in, put some RTV on the yolk splines and put it back in with the nut. All done from the outside.

This is exactly what i figured out after doing it the hard way. Should never have second guessed myself!
 
I just rebuilt my transfer case last month I replaced the front outputseal going to front axle Now it's leaking again ...now I'm wondering if I can replace the yoke itself and the seal should be all right what do you think?
 
I just rebuilt my transfer case last month I replaced the front outputseal going to front axle Now it's leaking again ...now I'm wondering if I can replace the yoke itself and the seal should be all right what do you think?

Who knows? Maybe. Worth a try. Not that big a deal to pull the yolk,
 
I just rebuilt my transfer case last month I replaced the front outputseal going to front axle Now it's leaking again ...now I'm wondering if I can replace the yoke itself and the seal should be all right what do you think?

Is the seal leaking, or is the gear oil leaking out via the splines inside the yoke?

I’ve found it helps to put a little RTV sealant inside the yoke to seal the splines before sliding it onto the output shaft.

Let the sealant cure before refilling the case.

If the seal truly is leaking, then it’s probably due to a worn/grooved yoke.
 
I just did the rear on my CJ2A. FWIW I just bought a new yoke from Walcks. To me it wasn’t worth messing with a speedy sleeve if I’m going through this much effort. Also got a double lip seal from Willy’s America. Siliconed the splines as suggested and it’s dry as a bone.

Bill
 
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