CJ? M38? Build along. :)

Looks like Grandpa did a pretty nice job installing the Buick V6 and Saginaw steering.
He definitely seemed to know what he was doing. He passed away last year, and the dementia took him years ago so I didn’t really get to learn about this stuff ahead of time.
I didn’t know squat about vehicle mechanics going into this.
 
He definitely seemed to know what he was doing. He passed away last year, and the dementia took him years ago so I didn’t really get to learn about this stuff ahead of time.
I didn’t know squat about vehicle mechanics going into this.
I gave my 15 1/5 year old Grand Daughter our 62 Olds Cutlass. She is coming up and working on it. First thing we did was I taught her to rebuild the carb and check all the brakes. Teach them while you still can.
IMG_20231120_154453706.jpg
 
Finally got around to working on this guy again. It’s amazing how fast time gets sucked away in the summer months.
The jeep is out of my garage and in my friends shop now.

Tub is ready to come off and onto a cart once we get that built. We started taking some stuff off of the motor, found the power steering pump bracket is broken, so I ordered a new one from Brennan’s garage.

I have a pile of parts on the way from various manufacturers. Including everything for a full disc brake upgrade.

We did find some considerable rot in the hat channel under the side steps. But it looks like it’s really only located under the step.

We have a goal of being ready by April for Cool April nights car show in 2024. Hopefully we will make it.

Have any of you done a full disc conversion but used the stock master cylinder? The $400 for a dual master from Keizer Willys is a tough pill to swallow.

I also included some pictures of the jeep with my grandpa when he owned it, as well as a C20 I helped my friend get ready for Hot August Nights. I did all the wood work for the bed, as well as some odds and ends stuff.
You might check out Herm the overdrive guy for a duel master cylinder. For my CJ-2A I paid $310 including shipping. I think it is the same one KW sells at a mark up. IMG_9350.png
 
tha
You might check out Herm the overdrive guy for a duel master cylinder. For my CJ-2A I paid $310 including shipping. I think it is the same one KW sells at a mark up. View attachment 155818
thanks for the info.
I am going to be using Herms bracket. The reservoir I went with a 3/4” bore on recommendation from Brennan Metcalf from Brennan Garage(he makes brackets for mounting your calipers).
Really hoping I’ll have time to get back to the project after the holidays.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0442.png
    IMG_0442.png
    260.4 KB · Views: 2
A little more progress, body is ready to come off the frame when time allows.

Got the block painted, and ready to be resealed. Still need to do a little clean up on the intake manifold, front cover and fit the HEI distributor before painting that.

Then it’ll be take off the body, get that done and painted while also painting the frame, servicing the axles, differential and transmission.
And disc brake conversion.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0852.jpeg
    IMG_0852.jpeg
    214.5 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_0853.jpeg
    IMG_0853.jpeg
    263 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_0855.jpeg
    IMG_0855.jpeg
    273.5 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_0857.jpeg
    IMG_0857.jpeg
    234.6 KB · Views: 6
I found out the lock out cam for my selectro hubs was broken on the drivers side.
I did find a Derlin replacement part.

And I started my disc brake conversion on the drivers side using the track kick kit from Brennan's Garage.

Only cancerous rust in my tub was in the under seat storage box, and the side steps. So I cut that all out including the had channel and will be working on that shortly as well. I got some 2” rectangle tubing for replacing the rotted hat channel.

One other thing, the drums I’m taking off. Are they worth saving/trying to sell or just donate to the scrap Pile?

Should I be too worried about the rust on the tops of the gears on the sm420? I plan to clean them up. With a wire brush, maybe some OOOO steel wool as well.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8090.jpeg
    IMG_8090.jpeg
    319.7 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_8094.jpeg
    IMG_8094.jpeg
    318.3 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1196.jpeg
    IMG_1196.jpeg
    222.7 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1199.jpeg
    IMG_1199.jpeg
    232.9 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_1201.jpeg
    IMG_1201.jpeg
    270 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_1205.jpeg
    IMG_1205.jpeg
    268.2 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_1206.jpeg
    IMG_1206.jpeg
    310.8 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_1207.jpeg
    IMG_1207.jpeg
    283.4 KB · Views: 16
I found out the lock out cam for my selectro hubs was broken on the drivers side.
I did find a Derlin replacement part.

And I started my disc brake conversion on the drivers side using the track kick kit from Brennan's Garage.

Only cancerous rust in my tub was in the under seat storage box, and the side steps. So I cut that all out including the had channel and will be working on that shortly as well. I got some 2” rectangle tubing for replacing the rotted hat channel.

One other thing, the drums I’m taking off. Are they worth saving/trying to sell or just donate to the scrap Pile?

Should I be too worried about the rust on the tops of the gears on the sm420? I plan to clean them up. With a wire brush, maybe some OOOO steel wool as well.
Upon zooming, that rust looks thick. If the rust has gone thru the hardened surface of your gears, then you need new gears. Not trying to be a Debbie Downer but if the hardened layer is gone, you'll end up with pretty glitter in your gear oil. I speak/write from experience.
 
Upon zooming, that rust looks thick. If the rust has gone thru the hardened surface of your gears, then you need new gears. Not trying to be a Debbie Downer but if the hardened layer is gone, you'll end up with pretty glitter in your gear oil. I speak/write from experience.
Thank you for the input. I guess I’ll find out more when I get into cleaning them. It would be a shame since it’s only on the tops of those few gears. I guess I’ll cross my
Fingers that it’s mainly just flash/surface rust.
 
Is that like a flat tire is only flat on the bottom? :) ;)
Seriously, I wish you good luck. As an aside, perhaps position a vacuum cleaner nozzle near your cleaning area so all of the rust dust does not fall into your transmission case.
Haha. I spun the assembly to check the rest of it after I saw that. All the teeth are in great shape other than what you can see on the top there. :)
And that’s a great tip. Thank you.
 
Got back up to the shop today. I finished the disc brake conversion other than mounting the new master cylinder. I used Brennans brackets and kit, once I got in the groove it was pretty easy.
Biggest learning curve for me was how to rebuild my selectro front hubs, both locking rings were broken and I had no previous knowledge of how to work them. But all is good now, I found a website (torque king 4x4) they had new locking rings, gaskets and the tabbed lock washers all in shock and shipping was quick.
I found a pleasant surprise when service the front and rear differential’s. From what I have been told is Grandpa put in Powerlock limited slip in both the front and rear with 4.27 gears.
And no metal shavings in the existing oil that was in there.

It has been great seeing the project come along, still pushing to be running/driving by the end of April. IMG_1199.jpegIMG_1427.jpegIMG_1428.jpegIMG_1436.jpegIMG_1432.jpeg
 
Got back up to the shop today. I finished the disc brake conversion other than mounting the new master cylinder. I used Brennans brackets and kit, once I got in the groove it was pretty easy.
Biggest learning curve for me was how to rebuild my selectro front hubs, both locking rings were broken and I had no previous knowledge of how to work them. But all is good now, I found a website (torque king 4x4) they had new locking rings, gaskets and the tabbed lock washers all in shock and shipping was quick.
I found a pleasant surprise when service the front and rear differential’s. From what I have been told is Grandpa put in Powerlock limited slip in both the front and rear with 4.27 gears.
And no metal shavings in the existing oil that was in there.

It has been great seeing the project come along, still pushing to be running/driving by the end of April. View attachment 160255View attachment 160256View attachment 160257View attachment 160258View attachment 160259
Lucky dude
 
A little more accomplished this week.
Exhaust manifolds, cleaned and painted intake manifold cleaned painted and installed, heads are back on the motor.
My front and rear diff covers I thought I was going to have to replace. But they cleaned up really well. I’m really surprised how well the rear one cleaned up. After getting all the rust off I hit it with some enamel clear coat to protect it.

Front and rear diff serviced. New clutch kit, steering shaft, and motor mounts are on order.

I had to buy some new bolts for the timing cover and motor mount. I don’t put them in a baggie so inevitably they got lost.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates.
Not a lot happened between April and now. The person who was helping me, suddenly was too busy. I couldn’t get Into his shop by myself, then my Wife ruptured Achilles at the end of April.
At the end of August I had shoulder surgery, and just this weekend I was able to bring the Jeep “Wilbur” back home.
The motor still isn’t in it, I still need to find someone to help weld the patches in the tub tool box, and hat channel repair. It at least is at my house where I can regularly work on it.

So if your are near Hillsboro Oregon and would be able to help me weld I would greatly appreciate it, and would compensate you for your time.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3502.jpeg
    IMG_3502.jpeg
    247.3 KB · Views: 11
Back
Top