CJ-3A Build of "The Yellow Jeep" w Auto Shop Help

scottragee

Sharpest Tool
Jun 18, 2021
441
Davis, CA
First Name
Scott
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1955
This time has arrived to begin a build thread.
First, the backstory posted in June when I joined the forum:
"My father used to own a cattle ranch with two other partners in eastern Oregon for 30 years. In 1995 they sold it, and his CJ-2A, which had been his ranch/hunting jeep for 30 years, stayed with the property and new owners. A year and a half ago I looked up and met the family that bought the ranch - the Langers of Sherwood, OR. After our meeting, I wrote them and asked if they would be open to entertaining an offer from our family to buy back the Jeep since it was so closely associated with my dad for 3 decades. They wrote back and said, "You can have it!" I am moved by their generosity."

FYI: This Jeep has no gender-related name since it has been known in our family as "The Yellow Jeep" since the mid-'60s. We even have an internet password at the extended-family cabin utilizing that name. Needless to say, it must remain yellow, though the spray-can yellow the last owners used on it is much paler than the original yellow, which I'm pretty sure is "Michigan Yellow".

For the past month and a half, I've been exploring different strategies for restoring it, how far to go, and the usual decision-making issues of budget, determining the end goal, etc. Since I don't have the budget for professional restoration skilled labor, but also don't have anything close to a shop at my home garage, I explored the option of utilizing the local High School Auto Shop. In the past week, they have said they'd accept the Jeep as a project, provided I would commit to 2-hrs per day in the class, guiding the team assigned to me. I have accepted those conditions with joy. Sometime in about 6 weeks in early September is when I expect to be given the green light to take it over to the H.S. Yesterday, I brought the Jeep to my house from the shop it had been residing at. The Jeep has no brakes whatsoever so that was a bit interesting.

The goal is to get it running (engine runs, but no brakes and broken leaf-spring mounts) to where it is safe to drive, is decently reliable, can be titled/registered, and could make it on an RFTH event.

To feel like we were off to a good start, I ordered some 215/85R16 Hancook tubeless radial tires and planned to get the wheels/tires off this morning paying careful attention to left-handed threads vs. right-handed ones. Interestingly, the wheels with the left-handed threads were on the RF and LR (with the "L" stamped on the studs), while the LF and RR had either "R" or nothing stamped on the studs.

First I put WD-40 on each stud/nut combo then starting on the LF first w/ right-handed threads (in fact one of the 5 studs had an "R" stamp), I managed to loosen 3 nuts using a breaker bar plus pipe before my 13/16" Craftsman socket cracked! I've never had a socket crack on me before. Thus the first day touching the Jeep ended rather prematurely.

Thinking I'll put more WD-40 on the nut/studs and let it soak in longer. But I'm open to other ideas and suggestions. Attached are some photos of the wheels/tires/nuts/studs. I'm told I have combat wheels on the front and CJ-2A wheels on the rear. Also the RF tire is mounted in the wrong direction.
IMG_5337.JPGIMG_0820-sm.JPGIMG_0822-sm.JPGIMG_0824-sm.JPGIMG_0828-sm.JPG
 
I'll enjoy reading this.

Someone swapped the front hubs from side to side. Yes, if you disassemble the hubs entirely down to the spindle, you can swap back. Left hand thread studs belong on the left side of your Jeep.

Clearly your lug nut/stud threads are rusty and seized. I dislike WD40 except for the most plebian of tasks. You may need heat as well. While studs can be replaced if you break one, the originals are swaged into the hubs. Avoid that job if you can but it is doable. I recommend buying a set of impact sockets for the next go around. Or find quality chrome vanadium steel 6 pt sockets. With a cheater bar on your breaker bar, the 1/2" drive on the breaker bar might fail too. Don't ask me how I know. Eventually either the threads will relent or the stud will twist off. Then you'll be in a pickle. How to move it to the HS if you've twisted off too many studs per wheel. So consider potentially letting sleeping dogs lie until it's in the shop.

I like your concept though. Engine run first. Check driveline for operation. Brakes next. Steering and wiring and finally comfort and appearance last.

PS, almost forgot. You need the rear studs intact to use a hub puller. You need at least three studs. So if you waste three rear studs or even two in the wrong location, you're flucked and plucked when it comes to pulling the hub. Again, don't ask how I know but the solution was an oxygen acetylene torch and a new hub.
 
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Good info Joe, thank you! I appreciate the heads-up of it could get uglier.

Question: Do you think an impact wrench would be better than the breaker bar? Am tempted to pick up a cordless one, but I see they come in all sorts of different torque capacities, and obviously, we don't know what it would take to unseize the nut (or break the stud!).

And do you have a favorite fluid in lieu of WD-40 that might be of benefit?
If heat needs to be applied, I'll have to wait until it goes to the shop - don't have any welding/torch-like equipment of any kind.

Engine running: It actually does run. Will upload a video in the near future. Of course, it hasn't had anything checked out on it yet like compression or timing.
 
Good info Joe, thank you! I appreciate the heads-up of it could get uglier.

Question: Do you think an impact wrench would be better than the breaker bar? Am tempted to pick up a cordless one, but I see they come in all sorts of different torque capacities, and obviously, we don't know what it would take to unseize the nut (or break the stud!).

And do you have a favorite fluid in lieu of WD-40 that might be of benefit?
If heat needs to be applied, I'll have to wait until it goes to the shop - don't have any welding/torch-like equipment of any kind.

Engine running: It actually does run. Will upload a video in the near future. Of course, it hasn't had anything checked out on it yet like compression or timing.
You're welcome. We like to warn new members about pitfalls.

Yes and no. Yes because the hammering action is made to remove fasteners. No because many impact guns (both pneumatic and electric) offer less torque than a long breaker bar. Of course there are impact guns with 800-1200 ft lbs of torque. Also No because a strong impact may also twist off that stud.

For me, Justice Bros and Seafoam are available at my NAPA. WD40 tends to get gummy with age.
MAP gas gets fairly hot. It's available in the little bottles like propane. If you get the stud red hot, then it's lost it's hardness. Must be replaced. You can get the nut red hot, just try not to apply heat directly to the stud.
 
I've got both Napa and O'Reilly here in Davis. Will see what they carry for penetrants.

I understand exactly what you are saying about the pros and cons of an impact wrench in this situation. Will try the penetrant with a stronger socket first.

Heat: Have never used any kind of torch/welding tools before. Would love to learn. Hoping that can happen in the AutoShop class.
 
Good old 4 way/T handle lug wrenches (23" or so) are nice to have around. I keep/store one in my Wrangler.
Tire shops crank lug nuts up tight anymore!
 
Yep. U-Haul truck and trailer rental. With no brakes, it was interesting both to drive it onto the trailer (done by Corey Smith at Smitty's AutoBody in Meadow Vista (very talented VW restorer) and then I drove it off the trailer (rolling backward aways) and into the garage. See link to video (set to activate at 3:15pm).
 
Joe from Sandston: I know your town - had a design/build project for Prudential Overall Supply back in '98. They run a cleanroom laundry (washing bunny suits, gloves, booties for the Intel-type customer). Enjoyed my trips back there.

In this case, we have a rust seizure problem - can't blame a tire shop - though they do make them very tight!
 
Yep. U-Haul truck and trailer rental. With no brakes, it was interesting both to drive it onto the trailer (done by Corey Smith at Smitty's AutoBody in Meadow Vista (very talented VW restorer) and then I drove it off the trailer (rolling backward aways) and into the garage. See link to video (set to activate at 3:15pm).
Armstrong steering.

Scott, do you know how to find and read your Private Messages?
 
A possibility down the road is a new tub, but we need to get to first base first. I understand that Peter Debella in NY has a new source for tubs (from India) that according to Brian Hainer (aka Metalshaper) are "a thousand times better" than the ones coming out of the Philippines. Meanwhile, this tub needs a grinder taken to it - I keep snagging my jeans on a sharp edge getting into the driver seat! The professional restoration guys I talked to (two of them) wanted nothing to do with this tub!!
 
A possibility down the road is a new tub, but we need to get to first base first. I understand that Peter Debella in NY has a new source for tubs (from India) that according to Brian Hainer (aka Metalshaper) are "a thousand times better" than the ones coming out of the Philippians. Meanwhile, this tub needs a grinder taken to it - I keep snagging my jeans on a sharp edge getting into the driver seat! The professional restoration guys I talked to (two of them) wanted nothing to do with this tub!!
Depends on what you want out of your Jeep. A perfect, showroom restoration or a trail rig that is a 10 or 20 footer.
 
Depends on what you want out of your Jeep. A perfect, showroom restoration or a trail rig that is a 10 or 20 footer.
Don't want a showroom restoration. Want to hit some trails eventually. Clarification question: What do you mean Joe by the phrase "that is a 10 or 20 footer".
 
Wheel Removal Success
This morning we "got to first base" . . . on the wheels that is. Thanks to the advice provided herein and also a couple of thoughts from the CJ2A forum crowd we stepped up our game:

1. Got a much better penetrant lubricant and applied it twice over 2 days prior to this morning's resumption of effort. Favorite penetrant lubricants suggested included:
LPS 1 or LPS2, Seafoam, Justice Brothers, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil products.
I went with PB blaster because of the "wand" applicator and because the point-of-sale display was right at the front door of O'Reilys.

2. Bought an impact-wrench-quality socket and a 24" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar. He

Those three things did the trick to remove ALL wheel nuts and without breaking off any studs! Success! . . . and without having to go to the next step of heat application!

I delivered the wheels with old tires (3 different tread patterns, two were NDT and two-directional but still tube tires) to the local Goodyear store where the Hankook mud tires had arrived.
However, when I checked in at 1:30 (they were closing at 2), they showed me one of the combat wheels they had disassembled and the entire inside of the wheel was thick, flaky rust. So the decision was made to not mount the new tires, but finish getting the old tires off and let me have the wheels back on Monday for a more thorough inspection of the situation.

Time was spent this afternoon on a creeper under the Jeep inspecting the frame, body. . . really everything I thought to look at. Took a ton of photos and hope to post pertinent ones later this evening. I will welcome comments and observations of what you see along with my own thoughts of what I have.
 
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