Charlie Watts: ‘61 CJ5

Refinished (Poppy Red, really pops with Ford Blue and Machine Gray) and rebuilding a pair of Cutlass hub lockers I scored from a member here. Weber Outlaw 38 K380 kit should be arriving tomorrow, Weber fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are a day or so behind that. Debating if I want to open the 11" drums update, can of worms now, or later. In the interim, tidying up wiring, paint etc.

tBbFbhp.jpg
 
Refinished (Poppy Red, really pops with Ford Blue and Machine Gray) and rebuilding a pair of Cutlass hub lockers I scored from a member here. Weber Outlaw 38 K380 kit should be arriving tomorrow, Weber fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are a day or so behind that. Debating if I want to open the 11" drums update, can of worms now, or later. In the interim, tidying up wiring, paint etc.

tBbFbhp.jpg
I was just walking past my 5 gal can mounts today and wondered what color I should paint them.
Thank you for answering my question to myself.
 
Weber 38 K380 showed up, fuel pump and regulator tomorrow. Put in a call to Redline to figure out where to start with jetting as it comes with a pack and I ordered high alt kit for the humidity down here.

In the interim, reinstalled the glass beehives on the face:

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Nice looking Jeep Spence. you never mentioned your gear ratio. If you have the 5.38s all those horsepower "improvements" will only help your little 4F blow up. 4.27s should fix that, or the overdrive. 4.88s with od would be even better. And get rid of those 9" brakes. Stopping is good.
diggerG
 
Nice looking Jeep Spence. you never mentioned your gear ratio. If you have the 5.38s all those horsepower "improvements" will only help your little 4F blow up. 4.27s should fix that, or the overdrive. 4.88s with od would be even better. And get rid of those 9" brakes. Stopping is good.
diggerG
I have Husky OD, 11" upgrade waiting for install. Shoot me some info/price on the 4.88
 
Nice looking Jeep Spence. you never mentioned your gear ratio. If you have the 5.38s all those horsepower "improvements" will only help your little 4F blow up. 4.27s should fix that, or the overdrive. 4.88s with od would be even better. And get rid of those 9" brakes. Stopping is good.
diggerG
My thoughts: it remains an F head!!! Maybe improved but still an F head. I would put some miles on it with the 5.38's. With an OD, that equates to about the same as 4.10's which should be plenty high geared.

A second on the nice looking CJ.
 
I would be very careful using that foam air filter. I watched a car almost burn to the ground after it backfired and caught the foam air filter on fire.
 
I would be very careful using that foam air filter. I watched a car almost burn to the ground after it backfired and caught the foam air filter on fire.
That's what fire extinguishers are for. I've ran them before on my MGB, CRX's with no issues but aware of risk involved hence a good foam sprayer.
 
Triple checked the retaining star washer for the Husky OD, it's correct. Paranoid after hearing all the horror stories.

Speedo isn't working, new cable, tested with drill at install, works. There's a fine balance with having the squared shaft on either end, mated to the drive mechanism length wise on either end, or perhaps the gear in the T case is worn. I need to test further, I have the old cable, may connect and hold in cab to see if spinning while driving, seems an easy way to rule out or identify speedo drive gear or if the repro cables are too short and require finagling.

Update: called Carl at Walcks for a rebuild kit for 4693, asked about his cable, black, which I also have, but installed a gray one (no idea where). I think I may have not had the square drive aligned in the speedo the first time using the black, and grabbed the new gray one. I tested Walcks, works so I know the cable and speedo are good. If the issue continues once I have the black reinstalled, it's the T case gear.

I need to spend some time tuning the Weber 38, runs fairly well out of the box, doesn't want to idle coming to a stop unless I blip, then it idles fine.
 
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Waiting on 1-1/8 wheel cylinders for the 11" brakes.

The second set of OEM SW gauges died. Though they read backwards at the moment, I thought it would be worth the time to test the Omix ADA Taiwanese gauges. I used the OA plate as a template, hole punch and drilled holes for the screws.

The cool thing about the OA gauges are they have potienometer's to calibrate the gauges to better accuracy. If this works out well, I spend the time and money have new gauge decals made so they read correctly.

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For now, I'm the only one that drives my Jeep, so I'll know they're opposite of what is indicated.
 
Correct 1-1/8 bore wheel cylinders for the front finally installed. While I wait for the replacement water outlet, I'll get these installed.
11" rears are next...
 

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Pulled the SW 0-9 gauge, fuel and temp are dead. Ordered Stewart Warner Deluxe fuel and temp to match oil pressure gauge.
Once I replenish the coffers, I'll spring for the matching speedo and do my best to orient as close to the OEM setup layout.
 
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