oblvnnwtnjhn
Well Oiled
Starting with a good base foundation that the previous seller invested 5 years into. I am working slowly/methodically to making it my own to suit my personal needs though it's 95% of the way there. I lucked out as the builder is an auto engineer with a major automaker, he had the fortitude to rebuild the components to spec and upgrading/improving where ROI for the modern world is applicable.
Overall, I am very satisfied. My immediate needs are 55-60MPH sustained with reduced RPM for travelling home to MS via old US highways. I hit 60MPH GPS indicated and the engine wasn't too angry surprisingly ( I think the better flow from rebuilt engine/3 angle valve job and upgraded ignition aided this) though I know not sustainable unless I add OD to lower RPM's as the F-134 was not designed for such sustained high RPM's.
Previous owner Restoration details:
-It has been completely body off, frame and body sanded, primed, painted
-Completely replaced floor and under passenger seat storage box
-All brake hardware and brake lines completely new
-electric fan with aluminum uprated radiator
-All new or rebuilt steering including Ross box ( I added Tightsteer and steering stabilizer. Seller says he was not impressed with Ross rebuild kit "but it worked"?)
-completely stripped and rebuilt front axle
-Brand new wiring harness and lights with 12V conversion/CS10 60 AMP alternator
-factory seats rebuilt/salvage attempt (first time trying a sewing machine)
-new repro wheels
-completely overhauled engine (hardened valve seats with 3 angle, .070 between deck and head, .80 bore)
-transmission and transfer case overhauled by PO. (jumps out of 2nd on decel, I have Novak T90 kit on hand)
- Daytona UN2/Zenith clone 1BBL carb (once tuned, seems to be a real decent carb. I have Carter YF that was included I am rebuilding. Weber 32/36 likley)
- Pertronix electronic ignition within stock IAY and matching Flame Thrower coil, 7mm silicone carb low resistance wires
Upgrades:
-fold and tumble rear seat added
-BFG KM3 7.5r16
-1998 Cherokee swinging pedal assembly, brake booster and master cylinder -huge braking improvement (understatement, works great, only caveat, the switch hangs sometimes thus brake lights remain on unless I push pedal up slightly from behind)
-1998 Cherokee clutch master and slave cylinder modified to work inline with the original clutch linkages.
-rocker guards and rear corners guards. Added protection and dent/rust hole corrections.
-Tom Woods front and rear prop shafts
To date upgrades by me:
- replaced plugs with Champion J8C, gap set to .40, timing at 12 degrees (still playing around with ignition/fueling but set via Sun Pro tach and dial back)
- Installed the included K&N style filter, throttle response improved vs Donaldson oil bath setup with the sharp *90 rubber hose, air does not like to change direction. Working to devise box that cools air. Scientific flow bench and dyno testing by Grassroots Motorsports shows 1-2hp loss with most under hood heat temps. The F-134 needs all it can get. Looking at ITG J20 "sausage" filter with Weber base plate for max unimpeded CFM flow.
- Tightsteer/steering stabilizer (helped a ton, still a bit of wiggle in the wheel, will attempt further tightening before replacing shaft)
- new SW oil pressure gauge (cheap Omix/Crown leaks)
-made grab bar from 3/4 copper stock I had
- old ammo box for glove box insert
- KYB Monomax shocks
Immediate upgrades:
- Novak T90 rebuild kit
- over drive
- Redline Weber 553 carb kit
- Rocky Road YJ spring kit for early CJ's
Overall, I am very satisfied. My immediate needs are 55-60MPH sustained with reduced RPM for travelling home to MS via old US highways. I hit 60MPH GPS indicated and the engine wasn't too angry surprisingly ( I think the better flow from rebuilt engine/3 angle valve job and upgraded ignition aided this) though I know not sustainable unless I add OD to lower RPM's as the F-134 was not designed for such sustained high RPM's.
Previous owner Restoration details:
-It has been completely body off, frame and body sanded, primed, painted
-Completely replaced floor and under passenger seat storage box
-All brake hardware and brake lines completely new
-electric fan with aluminum uprated radiator
-All new or rebuilt steering including Ross box ( I added Tightsteer and steering stabilizer. Seller says he was not impressed with Ross rebuild kit "but it worked"?)
-completely stripped and rebuilt front axle
-Brand new wiring harness and lights with 12V conversion/CS10 60 AMP alternator
-factory seats rebuilt/salvage attempt (first time trying a sewing machine)
-new repro wheels
-completely overhauled engine (hardened valve seats with 3 angle, .070 between deck and head, .80 bore)
-transmission and transfer case overhauled by PO. (jumps out of 2nd on decel, I have Novak T90 kit on hand)
- Daytona UN2/Zenith clone 1BBL carb (once tuned, seems to be a real decent carb. I have Carter YF that was included I am rebuilding. Weber 32/36 likley)
- Pertronix electronic ignition within stock IAY and matching Flame Thrower coil, 7mm silicone carb low resistance wires
Upgrades:
-fold and tumble rear seat added
-BFG KM3 7.5r16
-1998 Cherokee swinging pedal assembly, brake booster and master cylinder -huge braking improvement (understatement, works great, only caveat, the switch hangs sometimes thus brake lights remain on unless I push pedal up slightly from behind)
-1998 Cherokee clutch master and slave cylinder modified to work inline with the original clutch linkages.
-rocker guards and rear corners guards. Added protection and dent/rust hole corrections.
-Tom Woods front and rear prop shafts
To date upgrades by me:
- replaced plugs with Champion J8C, gap set to .40, timing at 12 degrees (still playing around with ignition/fueling but set via Sun Pro tach and dial back)
- Installed the included K&N style filter, throttle response improved vs Donaldson oil bath setup with the sharp *90 rubber hose, air does not like to change direction. Working to devise box that cools air. Scientific flow bench and dyno testing by Grassroots Motorsports shows 1-2hp loss with most under hood heat temps. The F-134 needs all it can get. Looking at ITG J20 "sausage" filter with Weber base plate for max unimpeded CFM flow.
- Tightsteer/steering stabilizer (helped a ton, still a bit of wiggle in the wheel, will attempt further tightening before replacing shaft)
- new SW oil pressure gauge (cheap Omix/Crown leaks)
-made grab bar from 3/4 copper stock I had
- old ammo box for glove box insert
- KYB Monomax shocks
Immediate upgrades:
- Novak T90 rebuild kit
- over drive
- Redline Weber 553 carb kit
- Rocky Road YJ spring kit for early CJ's
