Cap'n 1950? truck

[JABJEEP]

There is nothing attached to it. Could this have been the cause of the drain?

Possibly, yes. The accessory position might also be connected (internally) to the run position, so anything on the run position terminal could be the source of the drain.

 

[restes]

In testing the wires from the ignition switch, I found that the "ign" post is loose! I am going to replace the switch as soon as I can find and order one.

 

[restes]

I hooked up a new ignition switch and the battery drain continues. Also the engine doesn't crank over even with a charged battery, which started before I replaced the ignition switch. Checking everything, but this is puzzling after I had just had the first "drive".

 

[Davidgreen59]

Also the engine doesn't crank over even with a charged battery

Does it at least make a “clicking” sound at the solenoid? Or is it dead silent when you move the key to the start position?
Solenoid looks something like this (but maybe not exactly)

 

[restes]

No clicking, just the barest attempt to turn the engine, then nothing. Thanks.

 

[JABJEEP]

Have you tried to jump start it? It sounds like your battery is drained again.

 

[restes]

I have not. It's the only 6-volt I have. But I have recharged it several times and tried to start the engine immediately after it fully charges. Thanks

 

[restes]

This battery, when "fully" charged shows 6.29 volts, not as high as it should be according to an Internet search. Could the battery be the cause of the drain and not an external source?

 

[restes]

A little more information- when I turn on the headlights the meter shows .70 volts.

 

[JABJEEP]

This battery, when "fully" charged shows 6.29 volts, not as high as it should be according to an Internet search. Could the battery be the cause of the drain and not an external source?

I would think that, yes, it's possible. Maybe a bad cell. Try this test; disconnect it, charge it, measure it, then measure it 24 hours later, and again 48 hours later. That should be a simple "at home" test. Or take it to Batteries Plus and let them load test it. Is it the old-fashioned type with the removable caps? You could do a hydrometer test too.

 

[restes]

Thank you Sir! The battery loses power even when disconnected. On the way to NAPA to have it tested.

 

[Bubblehead617]

Sounds like dead cells fer sure.

 

[restes]

Yes. Tested thar way. Going to the pole barn to try the new one in a few swigs- I mean- minutes! Thanks

 

[restes]

Meant tests dead cells "that" way, not "thar" way. The new battery solved the cranking problem, but I still don't know if I have a current drain. I'll check that after a few hours. Thanks all!

 

[restes]

The new battery seems to have solved the current drain problem! I cranked and started the truck yesterday evening with the voltage at 6.37and it's still at 6.32 this morning. It took quite a bit of cranking to get him running, so I'm assuming that brought the voltage down some, and hopefully when I can run the engine longer it will charge back up. Thanks

 

[Joe B]

Leeches!
I HATE leeches!

 

[restes]

Yuck! Joe, I was walking down to check the battery again when I got your text. Killed 'em!

 

[Joe B]

Try the bulb test just to make sure.

If you do/did have parasites, a new battery would not exterminate them.

You can also substitute the leads of your multimeter for the bulb. If you are not typically seeing a spark when you hook up your positive cable with the key removed, it should be safe to set the multimeter for "200m" to start out.