The 6V battery on my L6-226 wagon has 00 cables and grounds to a bolt holding the starter to the engine. The engine has a ground strap to the frame.
Cap'n 1950? truck
- Thread starter restes
- Start date
That's good to know and I think I will need a longer cable to ground the battery that way. I think my engine-to-frame ground strap is missing. Its had for me to get around under there but I'm going to look again. Thanks.
Don't call me stupid! I'll do that myself. Battery was/is low! I was reading the wrong scale. Of course, there may still be other problems, but I'm bettin' the battery will turn the starter once its charged back up to 6 volts. Damn! Wasted time, but it could be worse.
The charged battery did turn the engine about 6 revolutions before I unhooked it. No fuel supply yet. I have really back slid because of other issues, but I will get back to it!
I'm back at it, and really right back where I was. I had my wife turn the key while I watched in the distributor to see if the points were opening- they were not. We got 5 or 6 engine revolutions before we lost power and just heard clicking. The battery was charged prior. I have a jumper from the center ign switch post to the batt positive terminal. It is all 6 volts, starter recently restored, new solenoid on starter. I want to find what's draining the battery, but my analog meter only measures DC miliamps. It seems I need more capacity to see how much current is going where. Does that make sense?
Thank you for ideas.
Thank you for ideas.
I got new points and condenser, but having trouble matching the rotor. Here's a photo of the inside top of the distributor, and I will get more photos, but does this look right for a 1950- 1950 1/2 truck? There is an id plate on the side of the distributor housing but I don't know if it will ever be readable. Any input will be appreciated.
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With lack of fusing in these rigs shorts to ground can be a pretty bad issue.
Wonder if you isolate the battery completely and then Ohm out from Positive to Neg and try it that way.
See what your baseline Pos to Neg and Pos to Ground is in Ohms.
I feel the gauges should be off with the Key off.
Maybe the VR or something.
The number might be helpful. It's also a good way to waste a few hours chasing your tail!
But using Ohms law you can take your battery voltage and resistance to calculate the "draw".
I can try it with the '48 to see what I have.
Tomorrow I have a clean up day prior to the weekend car show, so hope to put a few hours into it tomorrow and Saturday.
Good ideas! Thank you, and I'll start checking those things with my (second!) new meter today. So far NAPA hasn't been able to find a match for the rotor. Looks like the wire from the coil thru the distributor housing that clips to the condenser had lost its insulator and may have been shorting.
I was able to read the tag on the didtributor from a photo. It says Autolite IAT 4008 8F. NAPA says they called (Autolite?) and were told that is not a recognized number. Anyone else have this distributor in a running vehicle? I'm still looking for a rotor, and hoping I don't have to replace the entire distributor. Thanks.
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Eric,
Willys America lists a rotor for the IAT-4008:
And from the G503 gang:
Willys America lists a rotor for the IAT-4008:
Willys America F4-134 / 473 Autolite IAT 4003 & 4008 / IAY 4401 Distributor Parts for Willys Overland Vehicles
Willys America F4-134 / 473 Autolite IAT 4003 & 4008 / IAY 4401 Distributor Parts for Willys Overland Vehicles
shop.willysamerica.com
And from the G503 gang:
I have a couple IAT 4008's.
Maybe you can match up this NAPA one, which they are mighty proud of vs the WA posted above.
There is a 20% sale thing going on.
I would physically put eyes on it at the store.
Maybe you can match up this NAPA one, which they are mighty proud of vs the WA posted above.
There is a 20% sale thing going on.
I would physically put eyes on it at the store.
I also got this from @airportops as part of a gift exchange a few years back and he listed out a few other vehicles you can try to reference.
Wow, JoeB and Timd32! Huge help. I am very grateful and trying to digest it all. That ECH AL58 sure looks like what I have, so I am going to try NAPA with those letters and numbers.
It appears that the tag on my distributor is incorrect. The rotor for an Autolite IAT 8008 -ECH AL58- will not fit on the shaft. The NAPA guy measured both and I saw it is significantly larger inside diameter than the rotor I took off. So, the hunt continues. Unless I'm missing it, WA shows a rotor for the F4 and L6, but my engine is the L134. Or does that even matter? Temporarily (I hope) lost here.
I wonder if this outfit could help you determine which distributor you've got?:
http://www.willysdistributors.com
http://www.willysdistributors.com
Great idea! Didn't know about them.
I have a feeling all 4 of my L134 Distributors are of the 4008 variation, the difference is 2 are Vacuum Advance and 2 are just centrifugal advance.
Will check the run stand engine Rotor and take some measurement.
The two in the pics above are at the shop.
Will check the run stand engine Rotor and take some measurement.
The two in the pics above are at the shop.
Timd32 and Lookout Ranch- thank you both! The rotor that came in my didtributor had a "groove" instead of a flat side.ooks like the shaft would have had a "ridge" to ride in the groove. I'll check that again.