Can't get rear drum off HELP


Bigger Hammer
Jan 29, 2010
Eagle, Idaho
First Name
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1959
I have a 59 wagon. I have read some of the posts on rear drum removal, but I can't get the drum off. I am using a puller similar to the one sold by Kaiser Willy and have tried lots of penetrating oil. I started to bend the puller. If I try heat, where exactly do you place it? Thanks for any suggestions.
First loosen the nut on the driveshaft some turns but do not remove it.
Tighten up the puller so you have good tension on the puller and then punch the senter axle on the puller wilt a large hammer.
The shock from the hammer will often loosen the hub from the axle.

( sorry for my poor english, im norwegian and was sleeping a lot on school)

Jon H.
Follow the above notes for a good starting point. Then go back to using the puller with BFH..... Personally I try to avoid heat as much as possible. Especially if you can't see inside the drum for excessive grease/oil etc. That can get ugly quick.
my 2 cents
One side came off easily but the passenger is another story. I am using a good puller and have max tension. I tried heat and penetrating oil. I am thinking of drilling a hole in the backing plate and striking the drum from the inside with a rod or punch. As any one tried this or are there any other thoughts?
Where you planning on pulling the axles all the way out? If you can remove the 6 mounting plate bolts on the axle flange to the backing plate you use a slide hammer to pull the drum/backing plate/axle all out as one unit and then be able to work on it at the bench.

Only problem is if you can't get those 6 bolts removed you will not be able to do it that way without destroying the backing plate.
I tried to remove the backing plate bolts but I think the inside nut is turning.
That is a possiblity there.

Time/PB Blaster and continued tension on the puller while you are at work? Spray it, hit it with the BFH in the morning before going to work, come home, grab a beer, spray it again, hit it again with the BFH, Keep the tension on it for extended periods of time? Might take a few days but finally give loose.

I would leave the axle nut on there so it doesn't go shooting across the floor when it finally frees up.
I had trouble getting off one drum just recently.I was using the heavy duty Ken Tool puller,really put a lot of pressure on it,no movement despite striking the puller screw with a large hammer.I finally resorted to the Oxy Torch,heat the exposed hub,not the drum, quickly with a cutting tip,BUT,do not heat anywhere near red,about 350 degrees F is fine and won't mess up the steel from heat.Clean steel will turn a straw color at about 400 degrees,be careful.
Still working on the drum. Is there any chance of fire from the gear oil in the axle or brake fluid when heating with a torch?
I had the same problem with my '48 wagon, passenger side rear drum refused to come off. After several hours of tightening the puller a little at a time and rapping the drum with a BFH, the result was that the area around the studs deformed and was visibly convex. At this point, I decided that the hub was junk, heated it well with an oxy/acetylene torch, slammed it with a sledge hammer and it came off in pieces. Fortunately, I was not hit with any shrapnel, but it could've been ugly. Yes, too much heat can ignite the grease in the hub...didn't happen to me, but I saw a lot of smoke. Be careful.
There's always a risk of fire when using a torch.But it's all steel and the grease mess is in an enclosed area,be more smoke than flame. But use caution and have something to put out a fire just in case.
Chance of fire is possible is heated too much yes....
Not a fire like gasoline though.....

Just have the kid behind ya with fire extinguisher....

Or the wife....