Broken stud removal

[two-bit]

I recently got "challenged" by a neighbor to remove a broken stud from an engine block. Its a blind hole, in cast, steel stud broken off inside the hole. I have a 3/16 pilot hole drilled thru the stud. Heat is really not an option due to location. Hole is currently located in a partially vertical position. Stud is very rusty, (why it broke), and i am looking for input on your best soak it, eat the rust solution to get it to loosen up.
I have tried ZEP 45, Aerokroil, PB blaster, its been a month....
Any other suggestions ?

We all know the only thing harder than your drill bits, is a broken off E-Z out.

 

[Bill Kuran]

I tried a new method successfully. Maybe just lucky but it worked.

In this case I broke a tap. I decided to use a finger type tap exactor from McMaster Carr. I had never found them to work because the fingers would twist off with very little applied torque. Instead of using a tap handle to turn the extractor, I put in an electric drill with an adjustable torque chuck. I started with very light torque then increased based on "it seems to not be too much." I used a couple of clamps to hold the drill in place, turned it on and went on about my business. In less than ten minutes, the tap came out. I think the repeated jarring was what made it work.

I've not tried this with a drilled out stud and EZ out but it may be worth a try. To adjust the drill motor torque I would clamp the EZ out in a vise to make sure it doesn't break before putting in the drilled out stud.

Like I said, maybe I just got lucky.

 

[Blindmelon]

If the stud is large enough for a 3/16" hole, it is large enough to heat... Also, I had very good luck with Mopar, heat riser solvent... I would 1st try
try heat with a small welding tip and see if I could get part of the stud to cherry color. Then see if it would move with the easy out... Back in the day, when I could see, I would just burn it out with a small cutting torch.. You also could just step up the drill size and then peel out the edges with a very small cape chisel... Worst case, drill out the stud and use cast iron repair plugs to fill the hole. Then drill and tap a new hole..

 

[Greaser007]

you might try "Freeze-Off" in an aerosol can to shrink the drilled stud. It is messy stuff similar to WD-40. spray for 10-seconds, and have rags handy.
I tried it on a stuck pulley (donor-sheave) with no luck. I needed a Bigger Puller, so bought a new pulley.

another thought, is to use a punch and impact the broken stud which may 'jarr' it loose for the extractor.

What I have done in the past is to blow the stud out with a torch because the cast doesn't melt at the same temp as the steel.
But, I know you said that heat was not an option. ( you could use that old dirty throw-rug in the utility room to cover the engine) hahaha
Be careful because if the spouse was to catch you she might throw you out with your clothes.

 

[Larry Edgerton]

If I can get to it I like yours in a vertical position I use Ospho. It is a rust eating acid oxidiser, so rather than lubing it you are getting rid of the rust that has bound up the threads. Takes a couple of days applying occasionally. I use Freeze off once in a while as well. Broken studs are a pain.