Better late than never 1963 Overland Rover Wagon

With the shaft nice and cool today, I chucked it up in the lathe and turned it down to a press fit into the new yoke. It turned nicely with a carbide bit.
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The new yoke has a 3/8" keyway also.
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So into the milling machine it went. clamped into a V block, the keyway cut went fairly quick.
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The fit turned out to be pretty tight. No way they would just slide together.
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Trying to figure out how to hold the yoke in the hydraulic press took a little time. The u-joint bores are 1.063 and I found a piece of 1" steel stock that worked fine to hold the yoke on the press frame and pressed the two parts together.
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Before welding I think it would have held anything the 302 Ford can throw at it. With the 3'8 key and a 3/8 set screw set into a drilled hole in the shaft, I don't see how it could move. Thay look like they belong together.
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Back in the lathe with a dial indicator the runout was around .003"
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Final assembly ready to pull the Transfer Case and install the new coupler.
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Didn't see no stepper motor on that mill. What kinda CNC outfit is that anyway! ;)
 
Nice work Rodney once again It's great to have the tools and the know how to get er done. I've been too busy to follow your thread lately good to see your still at it :cool:
 
When you try and "Put the Cart Before the Horse". Things go wrong. I tried to build the shortest shaft between the tranny and transfer case I could. I used the shortest slip yoke and PTO yoke I could find. The overall measurement of this new shaft assaembly is 4" from transmission tailshaft housing to T/C face.
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After finishing the shaft. I crawled under the Wagon and measured the Rotoflex short shaft I will be replacing and it's only 3 1/2" so it was back to the Drawing board . I took the u-joint back out and chucked up the T/C shaft in the lathe and cut the welds out, then pressed the yoke off the shaft. On the upper picture you can see the set screw in the new yoke, I turned the yoke down to where the threads were just showing, I almost cut into the threads making it as short as possible. Then pressed it back together.
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Finally I reassembled it all 1/2" shorter than it was to start with,
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Remember "Measure Twice" don't take anything for granted. I could have spent the day pulling the T/C instead of fixing a mistake from yesterday.
Bubba says "There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over"
 
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Remember "Measure Twice" don't take anything for granted. I could have spent the day pulling the T/C instead of fixing a mistake from yesterday.
Bubba says "There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over"
That's like saying "I cut the board twice, and it's still too short!"

Nice work though!
 
Remember "Measure Twice" don't take anything for granted. I could have spent the day pulling the T/C instead of fixing a mistake from yesterday.
Bubba says "There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over"

That's like saying "I cut the board twice, and it's still too short!"

Nice work though!
My carpenting motto is measure once, cut twice, then get another board.
 
That's like saying "I cut the board twice, and it's still too short!"

Nice work though!
Thanks Tim. I actually had it together and apart several times today. I had some weld from the first time around causing it to run out with too much wobble. I finally got it down to about .005" not as good as the first time.
I did spin the entire assembly in the lathe with a bearing tail stock center without any vibration. @WA7OPY might give me a Brow Beating over how dirty the lathe is.
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With all the heating and welding and re-machining, I did end up with an unforeseen problem. The heat from welding caused the u-joint ears on the PTO Yoke to pull together enough that one of the u-joint circlips would not fit in the groove. I used a length of 1/2" all thread with thick washers and nuts on the inside of the yoke and pressed the ears apart while heating them evenly from side to side. Then buried it in sand for a couple houses to cool evenly. Once my makeshift spreader was removed, the u-joint and circlips went right together with no more issues
All in all a frustrating day.
"Keep Moving Forward". "One small step at a time." And sometimes a couple backwards.
Rodney Out..
 
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All in all a frustrating day.
"Keep Moving Forward". "One small step at a time." And sometimes a couple backwards.
Rodney Out..
"Willys" is synonymous with many adjectives with frustrating been right in there!

I always put an assembly together like I will never have to take it apart again, but wind up taking it apart before it is completely together or installed! :)

Still, nice work and very clever. Not may people (if any) could come up with such an elegant replacement for the Roto-Flex coupling. I had 600K miles on one of those couplers in my MBZ.

If there was an Olympic event for "Thinking outside the box", you would have the Gold medal, Rodney.
 
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Than
"Willys" is synonymous with many adjectives with frustrating been right in there!

I always put an assembly together like I will never have to take it apart again, but wind up taking it apart before it is completely together or installed! :)

Still, nice work and very clever. Not may people (if any) could come up with such an elegant replacement for the Roto-Flex coupling. I had 600K miles on one of those couplers in my MBZ.

If there was an Olympic event for "Thinking outside the box", you would have the Gold medal, Rodney.
Thanks Tim . I have over 200K on my wifes MBZ SLK 320 still running strong. no mechanical issues at all. Not even a clutch. (it's a 6 speed)
 
Than

Thanks Tim . I have over 200K on my wifes MBZ SLK 320 still running strong. no mechanical issues at all. Not even a clutch. (it's a 6 speed)
Mine was a 300 turbo with the European 5 speed OD. Probably not 6 of those in the States.
 
I ordered a new set of Brake Pads front and rear, and a new master cylinder today. The pads are still the original ones that were in the Pick N Pull axles so I figured it's time to change them. The master cylinder had 160,000 miles on it in the Olds Bravada donor car, so it's getting replaced also. Still I got 6 years out of the junk yard pars. Not too bad.
I plan on spending some time over the next couple weeks getting this thing serviced and some needed repairs done before the Run For The Hills Rally.
I'm still helping my Son with his garage build. Lumber package is all milled. Footings are dug, gravel is in and form boards are getting set tomorrow afternoon. He can tie all the rebar himself after work. We are trying to get the concrete slab done before the Rally.
 
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After lunch today, I pulled the 56 CJ5 out of the shop and ran the Wagon in.
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Then I pulled all the shift boots and floor cover, disconnected the T/C linkage and e-brake handle from the top. The transmission is a Ford M5OD-2 5speed overdrive from a1992 F150
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I then went under the Wagon and pulled both driveshafts for a considerable pile of parts.
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Back under the car and I placed the tranny jack under the T/C and removed it's mounts then slid it back to disengage the stub shaft from the T/C and lowered it down. It's a Land Rover LT230 out of a 2002 Land Rover Discovery
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Once the T/C was out of the way, the Rotoflex coupling with T/C stub and Ford slip yoke pulled right out. Next to the new U-Joint shaft it looks like the new one will go right back in with no modification to mounts or drive shafts.
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Tomorrow will be a clean up day and re-assembly.
"Keep Moving Forward"
 
I guess I'll get a late start tomorrow. I just called O'reilly Auto Parts in Auburn and they will have the Transmission output shaft seal and the Land Rover T/C input seal tomorrow by 10:30 AM. So I guess I get to go for a 60 mile M/C Ride .
 
I went to Auburn today and got the Registration, Title and Plates taken care of for the CJ5 project.

Of course one of the oil seals I ordered last night from O'Reilly's was wrong. I figured if they were going get it wrong it would have been the Land Rover input seal in the T/C. Nope they got that correct. All the Local Parts stores and Internet info on the M5OD-2 Ford 5 speed output shaft seal is wrong. They all list a little 7/8" bore seal when the Tranny uses a standard 1.5" barrel 28 spline slip yoke that Ford has used for 50 years. The seal is actually 1.5x2.375x.375 or 38MMx60MMx10MM I ordered the inch size one from Napa and the metric size one from Fleebay. we'll see if one of them is correct.
 
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