Any advice on putting the engine back in place? Having issues with getting input shaft into pilot bushing.

gkwalker_54CJ3B

Knuckle Buster
May 25, 2022
4
North Carolina
First Name
Grayson
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1954
Hey folks. A bit of history: I'm working on a 1954 CJ3B and took the engine out to have it rebuilt. After the rebuild I installed a new pilot bushing and brand new clutch using a clutch alignment tool. Now the task at hand is dropping the engine back in, which I've found is much more involved than taking it out. I placed grease on the input shaft, worked with my tilt engine bracket to get the splines of the shaft lined up with the block, but cannot get that last ~1 inch push to get the input shaft seated in the pilot bushing. I have a floor jack under the bellhousing, which has some play, and am trying to adjust its angle slightly to completely seat the input shaft. Any advice for how to proceed? Things I've considered:
  1. Starting the bellhousing bolts onto the block to help with the alignment
  2. Dropping the transmission, aligning it with the block, and raising them both together (alarm bells going off in my head for this one)
  3. Taking it to a professional before I permanently damage something
Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Did you use a clutch alignment tool or a eyeball gauge?...Phil
 
Do not force fit. If the input shaft splines are into the disc hub you could break/crack the clutch hub plates by wiggling. I did just that that in my youthful first clutch replacement. Had to replace disc and start over, learning experience.
You do-not need to grease the splines of the input shaft. Clean off excess to avoid contaminating your fiber clutch disc. You do need to lube the tip of the input shaft with a long term grease.
Did you check (measure) the fit of the pilot bearing to the tip of the input shaft? Sometimes after the new pilot bearing is pressed into the crank the ID decreases a hair. It may need burnished/reamed to fit.
If your splines are not yet into the hub you will need to have transmission in N and rotate to fit.
Engine and transmission MUST be squared left right top bottom for everything to slide together. Again proceed gently.
Longer guide bolts are helpful. Cut off the hex head, cut a slot for screwdriver and put one in two adjacent corners (not all 4). Having a patient buddy more eyes & hands can be helpful.
 
I recently went through this, and it was suggested by another member to use threaded rod and washer to mate the two. Worked like a charm,
I simply let the engine float on the hoist parallel to the input on the T90, ratcheted the nut equally per side until they were drawn together.
 
Fred 46 has good advice, I would not use bolts to pull the bell housing up to the engine. Using them for alignment only will help.

I have seen major destruction done by using bolts to pull or draw these together. You do not want to have to replace the clutch disk or to repair broken off ears on the bell housing or the engine. It has happened. No good & not fun! BTDT.
 
cptlogger said:
Fred 46 has good advice, I would not use bolts to pull the bell housing up to the engine. Using them for alignment only will help.

I have seen major destruction done by using bolts to pull or draw these together. You do not want to have to replace the clutch disk or to repair broken off ears on the bell housing or the engine. It has happened. No good & not fun! BTDT.
Click to expand...
I mostly agree with you and should have stated with a caveat, that IF the two pieces are basically married but need a little help to come together completely (he said he was an inch off so he's almost there) and are WELL greased. But you make a very valid point, if not aligned, really in a bind etc, the ears will tear off and other possible damage could occur. Use common sense, go SLOW and make sure both pieces are as closely align as possible. Take a break, ask a friend to help, start with a fresh mindset. Mine gave me fits, came back solo a day later, and it just came together finally. I went super slow, looked for and listened for stresses.
 
Both the engine & bell housing must be square with one another.
Put in gear & with slightly weighted inwards. Turn the rear output shaft so the input splines enter the driven disc & should just slip right in. That is if the input shaft was able to fit in the spigot bush before one started & the driven plate was centred.
There have been some good suggestions but they shouldn't be needed generally.
 
Is the alignment shaft tip the same diameter as your input shaft? Maybe the bushing is too small…

Jon B.
 
Just went thru this, had used clutch alignment tool before trying reset, couldn't get the last 1/2 inch to mate. Did not force, but wouldn't mate! Finally pulled back, loosened clutch plate ( eyeball chk showed there was visible alignment issue.) Re-set clutch alignment using tool and eyeball, went together easily!!! Alignment tool allows to mich error without the eyeball, less then 1/4inch caused me hours of heartache!
 
You better pull the tranny out and check out the diameter of the pilot bushing. Most kits sell you a bushing that is 1/16th smaller. Pulling the tranny is much easier than breaking the ears of the mount off.
I’ve had to recheck twice in my lifetime and the bushing was too small for the output shaft.
 
I knew y'all would have some wisdom to share. This is one of the first major roadblocksI've encountered and I really appreciate the help. Hoping to update with good news after I try some of these tricks.
 
gkwalker_54CJ3B said:
I knew y'all would have some wisdom to share. This is one of the first major roadblocksI've encountered and I really appreciate the help. Hoping to update with good news after I try some of these tricks.
Click to expand...
Hoffy’s advice to loosen the pressure plate is good. Once the trans is mated, you can tighten it by rotating the flywheel. At least that’s how I do it with my 226 engine. The best clutch alignment tool is an old input shaft. That way you can check the fit of the pilot bushing, as well.
 
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