AND SO IT BEGINS: 1956 CJ5 total basketcase rebuild...

First legal road test was to the Food Pantry where I volunteer on Thursdays. There was a little smoke coming from under the hood and I found a Brake fluid drip on the Driver side exhaust manifold.
When I got home I tightened the fitting on the Master Cylinder and that leak stopped.
I let it run for a while and the smoke got worse and worse. Sliding under it there was an obvious engine oil leak burning off the manifold and dripping onto the frame. I was baffled as I could not find where it was coming from. And the engine was running rough and not idling well.
I panicked and thought maybe INTERNAL cracked valve guide, broken oil ring, who knows.
I pulled the spark plugs on that side and they had no oil on them so that was good.
I put it back together wiped down all the oil, checked the firing order as I put the plug wires back on and fired it up again.
Smooth idle, no smoke, no leaks. I let it run for a 1/2hour. drove it up and down the freeway 3 miles each way. brought it home still No, Leaks, No Smoke Nice idle. I hate when I fix things with out fixing anything. Big Mystery. The oil was directly below the dip stick tube, but that would not account for the bad idle.
 
First legal road test was to the Food Pantry where I volunteer on Thursdays. There was a little smoke coming from under the hood and I found a Brake fluid drip on the Driver side exhaust manifold.
When I got home I tightened the fitting on the Master Cylinder and that leak stopped.
I let it run for a while and the smoke got worse and worse. Sliding under it there was an obvious engine oil leak burning off the manifold and dripping onto the frame. I was baffled as I could not find where it was coming from. And the engine was running rough and not idling well.
I panicked and thought maybe INTERNAL cracked valve guide, broken oil ring, who knows.
I pulled the spark plugs on that side and they had no oil on them so that was good.
I put it back together wiped down all the oil, checked the firing order as I put the plug wires back on and fired it up again.
Smooth idle, no smoke, no leaks. I let it run for a 1/2hour. drove it up and down the freeway 3 miles each way. brought it home still No, Leaks, No Smoke Nice idle. I hate when I fix things with out fixing anything. Big Mystery. The oil was directly below the dip stick tube, but that would not account for the bad idle.
I too am miffed when stuff fixes itself. Not truly a fix yet, in my mind.
Sometimes Rodney, I think our projects like to mess with us. "Watch his reaction when I start leaking oil. Ha hah hah".

Does the CJX accelerate like a raped ape?
 
I too am miffed when stuff fixes itself. Not truly a fix yet, in my mind.
Sometimes Rodney, I think our projects like to mess with us. "Watch his reaction when I start leaking oil. Ha hah hah".

Does the CJX accelerate like a raped ape?
Striped a$$ ape.
The NP435 shifts good for a Truck Granny 4 speed. The 2-3 upshift is a long jump, but the 5.0L has the power. On the back road, we have the Alta Elementary school with a stop sign and a long climb up past it. If you don't wind it up a bit in 2nd, it wants to lug a bit in 3rd.
 
Striped a$$ ape.
The NP435 shifts good for a Truck Granny 4 speed. The 2-3 upshift is a long jump, but the 5.0L has the power. On the back road, we have the Alta Elementary school with a stop sign and a long climb up past it. If you don't wind it up a bit in 2nd, it wants to lug a bit in 3rd.
Good stuff to know for my wagon which is a bit of a clone of your CJX.
 
Back and forth to my Sons house. Took the Bride for a ride out the canyon. She likes it. :cool: No more oil leak. I can only think it might have been overfull and it came out the Dipstick tube.????? :rolleyes:

I folded the windshield while I wrapped the roll bar, dumb me I pinched the GPS speedo antenna wire that's mounted at the top of the windshield between the windshield frame and body when I clamped it back down. Now no speedo :mad:
 
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Back and forth to my Sons house. Took the Bride for a ride out the canyon. She likes it. :cool: No more oil leak. I can only think I might have been overfull and it came out the Dipstick tube.????? :rolleyes:

I folded the windshield while I wrapped the roll bar, dumb me I pinched the GPS speedo antenna wire that's mounted at the top of the windshield between the windshield frame and body when I clamped it back down. Now no speedo :mad:
Hey Rodney. Is the cable a small coax ? I think I have a coax repair splice from Raychem if you want to try it. Let me know and I will drop it in the mail

Bitz
 
Hey Rodney. Is the cable a small coax ? I think I have a coax repair splice from Raychem if you want to try it. Let me know and I will drop it in the mail
Cable measures .107" or 2.7mm with a coax fitting on one end and molded antenna on the other. It actually got pinched in two places. I flopped the windshield yesterday and it worked, today no joy.
 
Cable measures .107" or 2.7mm with a coax fitting on one end and molded antenna on the other. It actually got pinched in two places. I flopped the windshield yesterday and it worked, today no joy.
If you can cut the 2 pinched spots out and make one new connection will you have enough coax to work. Or will you need 2 splices.
 
I did a quick run up and down the Interstate a few miles. No driveline vibrations, trans shifts well, no issues.

I don't know why anyone would want an Overdrive in an early 84" wheelbase Jeep.
With my 96" wheelbase and wider stance. This thing is still scary at 70MPH. It's smooth and stable till you start hitting the Kalifornia Washboard, and sitting high and exposed it feels like it might want to change lanes on it's own.
 
Jim's splice sleeve is definitely the right way to go, but the coaxial antenna feed line in relatively strong-signal receive-only non-critical applications can typically still work even with some pretty ugly splices.

That RG-174-scale coax can be challenging to solder. (Only one "center conductor" in there, correct?)

Chop out the portion of damaged cable and try a simple "twist and tape" splice as an experiment. Don't worry too much about shield integratory for now.

Got any "Hams" in your neighborhood?


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Jim's splice sleeve is definitely the right way to go, but the coaxial antenna feed line in relatively strong-signal receive-only non-critical applications can typically still work even with some pretty ugly splices.

That RG-174-scale coax can be challenging to solder. (Only one "center conductor" in there, correct?)

Chop out the portion of damaged cable and try a simple "twist and tape" splice as an experiment. Don't worry too much about shield integratory for now.

Got any "Hams" in your neighborhood?


View attachment 121250
The splice is a crimp splice so no solder. It’s a special Daniels crimper but I can send that too (just need it back . ) Yes one center conductor and only one shield if it is RG174

But if you try the test and it works then the crimp should work better

Interesting is the signal strength of the GPS actually very week and the rec side is down in the -125dbm range. Hence GPS don’t work well inside. Not like a vhf or uhf line of site signal.
 
Watts a few watts. Pun intended
In thinking about this Rodney. If you have excess cable and it’s length is not critical (that is a concern really) then you could just as well run the cable where you need it from the antenna placement and cut cable to length and just re-terminate the cable with a new connector. Just measure the center conductor, the dielectric, the shield and the outer jacket numbers and get the needed connector. Most can be had that you can solder the inner contact and the rest is a wrench termination or get a low end crimper. ( I would used the wrenches myself).

If you can confirm coax off of the cable or the OEM info that would be best.

Then you get rid of the excess cable stuffed up under your dash too.

Digi-key is a good source to buy stuff. Also Pasternack is a good source for technical info too

Found one try mouser.
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I think the connector on the back of your GPS Speedometer head is SMA.

dash wiring 008 Zoom.jpg


Not that it matters if you decide to try a splice in your damaged line, but -- for the price -- this might do the trick for about the same outlay of cash as buying the connectors:


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I think the connector on the back of your GPS Speedometer head is SMA.

View attachment 121284


Not that it matters if you decide to try a splice in your damaged line, but -- for the price -- this might do the trick for about the same outlay of cash as buying the connectors:


View attachment 121283
That's the one that's in my E-Bay cart just as well replace the entire Antenna for the price.
 
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My Daughter In Law made up a set of Hood Decals for Christmas and I just got around to installing them. I went to the Post Office today in the CJ and while the hood was warm they went on real nice.
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I think the connector on the back of your GPS Speedometer head is SMA.

View attachment 121284


Not that it matters if you decide to try a splice in your damaged line, but -- for the price -- this might do the trick for about the same outlay of cash as buying the connectors:


View attachment 121283
I can't believe you found that picture of my speedometer from some 30 pages back in my build.
 
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