'63 Wagon - questions on 230 OHC Build/Rebuild among other things? Northern NJ

[Thomas Vilardi]

Yes, it's important to have a strong base under the rear floor area where the body is supported... hence our use of angle iron, across, to give real strength. This is not how a "purist" would do the repair, with a factory-design panel, but...

One other consideration - if you intend on having a trailer hitch, consider making a custom one that's really strong bolted to the frame. This might slightly protect the gas tank and also allow future external spare tire attachment (but that's another story).

Looks like rain, so the temporary stiffening job with the angled metal will have to wait.

It came with the hitch. There has been some discussion on this forum about these, but based on the photos folks have posted, the hitch is original. It bolts to the frame and the two pieces come together behind the bumper to another plate that shares a bumper attachment and then a flat piece of steel which juts out beyond the bumper upon which the ball is located. Here's a photo. You can see how the valence has some deformation on the right side - probably from taking some heavy loads with the tailgate down. Hole in the center of the valence is where one of the welded door hinges was located. The previous owner patched the gate where the other side of the hinge was attached.

 

[pavel6]

The triangular shape of your hitch looks strong but I have to wonder why there isn't a central piece pointing aft... You could update your hitch to allow a standard 2" square removable insert. On the other hand, the current design will surely protect your bumper from people who park "by ear"! Your bumper looks to be in good shape (not repaired multiple times like mine) - it seems to have the faint Willys script too.

 

[Thomas Vilardi]

The triangular shape of your hitch looks strong but I have to wonder why there isn't a central piece pointing aft... You could update your hitch to allow a standard 2" square removable insert. On the other hand, the current design will surely protect your bumper from people who park "by ear"! Your bumper looks to be in good shape (not repaired multiple times like mine) - it seems to have the faint Willys script too.

There is a perpendicular plate right up against the rear of the bumper that you can't see. That's what the two pieces on either side of the angled pieces go up to. It is a solid piece and fairly common for the era as I understand it, however the bolts used where it meets the frame are completely rusted and locked into place. Need to be sawn/hammered out at some point

 

[Thomas Vilardi]

Okay, so this is the latest for the "hive mind".

Wagon spent a month or so during Snowmageddon just sitting in the driveway. I started it regularly but when the snow finally disappeared discovered that the brake pedal felt mushy. When up and down the driveway but I live on a hill so didn't want to go further. Emergency brake cable was broken when I got it. I have a new one but didn't install and don't have a hub puller, so I decided I'd have my mechanic look at the brakes and put in the new cable.

AAA came today and while backing the Wagon up to the street to drive onto the roll-back, the brakes locked up while in reverse. I pulled forward - they unlocked, then locked again. Did that a few more times with same results. So a lift truck had to be dispatched, pulled up the rear and ultimately brought the Wagon to the Mechanic's - front brakes not locked up.

Common problem when they've been sitting for a while? Would like folk's thoughts.

 

[JABJEEP]

Are you even sure it's the brakes that locked up? It could also be any number of driveline related issues.

Also, (sorry, opinion time) I'm always concerned when I read "my mechanic" on these pages. Unless the guy is a hobbyist who's familiar with these old machines, or actually takes the time to research the proper manual, he probably knows less about how to fix your wagon than you do. For what you're going to pay him you could buy a nice quality made in USA hub puller on eBay and whatever other tools you need to fix it, plus you'll get a better understanding of your vehicle. These old things, compared to modern stuff, are very maintenance intensive, so it's always a good idea to do as much work on these yourself as possible.

 

[pavel6]

Agreed, I took our wagon to a well respected shop in town to have a "safety check" 5 years ago and was told no one could deal with it except an old guy (the actual shop owner). He charged $200 to go over everything, I hope so at least, tightening the rear hubs, greasing the dozens of nipples etc. None of the young guys would go anywhere near the vehicle, perhaps because they could figure out why it had 3 pedals.
Experience has taught me that few people want to do any work that could be considered exotic these days. I've had guys turn down jobs from dry walling, plumbing, eves troughs installation to tall hedge trimming. If you have the time and energy/willingness, it's nearly always better to do the job yourself... excepting midwifery.
And, you get to build up an impressive set of tools over the years... perhaps giving you good points to get into heaven one day!

 

[5JeepsAz]

I use mechanics. My e brake mechanism has locked up. Not so bad as what you described, but yes, you getting under there and figuring out exactly what it is that is causing the locking up is worth doing, especially if you get the mechanicals done by a pro.