'62 Willys Jeep Pickup Restoration

CSPIDY said:
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View attachment 173621

Made some progress
Using 3/8 bolts where the rivets were I was able to get my dimensions I took before disassembly.
Tighten them down, then I removed one bolt at a time, step drilled up to 7/16 slip fit using AN 7 bolts with proper grip.
Torqueed up then had my buddy weld up the edges like the factory.
Click to expand...
I've been frequently visiting your posts on this crossmember swap, and have come to the point in my own project where I am at the reassembly phase. Could you share a more detailed post of the AN 7 bolts you used and where you were able to purchase them? Specifically looking to see the length of the bolts you used, whether they were smooth shank or fully threaded. Did you use lock washers and or red Loctite and also how many ooga doogas did you torque to? This swap was a clear challenge for me as the rivets were a bear to get removed on the bottom of both sides of the crossmember where they passed through multiple layers of steel. I certainly have a greater understanding of why they riveted these, rather than bolting them when they were produced. Ugh!
 
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@dekeeb
You can purchase AN bolts and nuts from many aircraft related businesses but I found a race car builder supplier that has a very detailed list of the bolts and nuts called Pegasus racing supply

Airframe (AN) Bolts - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Come check out our Airframe (AN) Bolts at Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies!
www.pegasusautoracing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com

The AN bolts have a shank, I selected bolt lengths based on the thickness of the frame where they were being installed so there was no threads in the frame and used washers if needed. I did torque them using a general bolt/thread size chart.

I selected the bolt diameter based on the hole size to keep the fit to a slip or approximately 001-.002 interference, in most cases I had to go up to the next size by step drilling. I used a set of ball gauges and a mic to check the hole diameter.

I also used AN self locking nut (no loctite) and added the torque drag to the total torque.

As you have realized using rivets is a simpler less time consuming and more economical process.
but
If using bolts it can be a better and stronger solution provided they are installed properly.

Take your time time and treat each hole like a virgin

Also worth noting is I setup the frame on adjustable trailer jacks so as to keep the frame square prior to the disassembly.
Willys also provides asymmetric measurements , believe I found them in the service manual, to check the frame
 
CSPIDY said:
@dekeeb
You can purchase AN bolts and nuts from many aircraft related businesses but I found a race car builder supplier that has a very detailed list of the bolts and nuts called Pegasus racing supply

Airframe (AN) Bolts - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Come check out our Airframe (AN) Bolts at Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies!
www.pegasusautoracing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com

The AN bolts have a shank, I selected bolt lengths based on the thickness of the frame where they were being installed so there was no threads in the frame and used washers if needed. I did torque them using a general bolt/thread size chart.

I selected the bolt diameter based on the hole size to keep the fit to a slip or approximately 001-.002 interference, in most cases I had to go up to the next size by step drilling. I used a set of ball gauges and a mic to check the hole diameter.

I also used AN self locking nut (no loctite) and added the torque drag to the total torque.

As you have realized using rivets is a simpler less time consuming and more economical process.
but
If using bolts it can be a better and stronger solution provided they are installed properly.

Take your time time and treat each hole like a virgin

Also worth noting is I setup the frame on adjustable trailer jacks so as to keep the frame square prior to the disassembly.
Willys also provides asymmetric measurements , believe I found them in the service manual, to check the frame
Click to expand...
Very, very helpful for me...thanks for taking the time to share your experience and for making the original post showing your process. This has been a great reference for me and gave me the courage to give it a try. It has turned out to be a very satisfying swap making a virtually rust free frame into something that will give my L226 a nice place to perch for the next 70 years!
 
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dekeeb said:
Very, very helpful for me...thanks for taking the time to share your experience and for making the original post showing your process. This has been a great reference for me and gave me the courage to give it a try. It has turned out to be a very satisfying swap making a virtually rust free frame into something that will give my L226 a nice place to perch for the next 70 years!
Click to expand...
Yes indeed, the journey is half of the fun of the destination and sometimes more
 
Yippy, today I picked up the engine block and head from the engine shop. Hot tanked, mag checked block bored 0.020 over, deck surfaced, new cam bearing and freeze plugs. Head mag checked and surfaced.
IMG_3416.jpeg

IMG_3415.jpeg

All oiled up, unfortunately it will have to wait because I’m doing some work on the roadster before spring.
 
Fred46 said:
I’m amazed the machine shop returned your block/head in only 2 months?
This must be their slow period.
Good for you.
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The shop is a one man operation, he’s been working there since 1973
When the business went on the market in the mid eighties he bought it. Now he’s trying to sell it.
He prefers to just do the machine work, so he pushed mine out quickly.
He has many engines in work.
There are so few shops around
 
CSPIDY said:
The shop is a one man operation, he’s been working there since 1973
When the business went on the market in the mid eighties he bought it. Now he’s trying to sell it.
He prefers to just do the machine work, so he pushed mine out quickly.
He has many engines in work.
There are so few shops around
Click to expand...
He probably started there right out of HS Machine Trades.
He’s ready to retire but needs to sell the shop. If not another machinist shop gone.
How to get today’s kiddos into skilled machine trades rather than parts swapping?
 
I currently have a SBC at the local machine shop. He inherited the shop from his father. No one wants to take it over. He does all of my old stuff. One of his grandsons helps him out occasionally, but he does not want to work there full time. He says he has only two more engines to build and then he is only going to do machine work 2 or 3 days a week. I do have have two other options in town ,but I don't trust one of them. Hopefully he sticks around for a few more years.
 
Well finally began the engine assembly
Lapped the valves, installed the lifters, springs, cam and valves.
Set the lash initially at .014 as per the Willy’s manual
I have read that the clearance should be between .012-.016, they said as close to .012
What do you guys recommend?
 
CSPIDY said:
Well finally began the engine assembly
Lapped the valves, installed the lifters, springs, cam and valves.
Set the lash initially at .014 as per the Willy’s manual
I have read that the clearance should be between .012-.016, they said as close to .012
What do you guys recommend?
Click to expand...
Go to the high side .014 is good, to wide and all that goes wrong is...................... click- click -click at idle, but if to tight you burn a valve and off comes the head... a lot to loose do to a bad adjustment...Phil
 
WA7OPY said:
Go to the high side .014 is good, to wide and all that goes wrong is...................... click- click -click at idle, but if to tight you burn a valve and off comes the head... a lot to loose do to a bad adjustment...Phil
Click to expand...
Thank you, very simple
When I googled the adjustment, it said to keep it as close to .012 as possible, duh, so much for AI!
Ass intelligence
I’ll stick with the book, nothing new for the last 70 years.
 
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