54 wagon, 6-226 running rough

Court125sx

Gear Grinder
Jul 14, 2020
12
Minden, LA
First Name
Court
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
  2. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1948
  2. 1953
Title says it... I’m no mechanical genius, please ignore some ignorance here trying to explain it.

Motor sat up several years, I decided to try my luck at it. P.O. had plug wire order set on distributor,I copied it when I replaced wires and plugs. Wire order follows firing order. It fired up after a few tries, but idles real rough. I played with advancing/ retarding distributor, no change in idle. I checked #1 cylinder TDC on compression, and rotor is falling between #1 & #5 wire on cap. I change all wires over one space counter CW, again play with advance/retard it and get a lil sputter but no crank.
Am I missing something here, or should I look into timing/timing chain next?

23AA6DFA-5511-4F7E-84F4-A7C41427E98D.jpeg
 
I would be tempted to set the wires by the book. Regardlessof the previous owners marks. Check you points gap and and see what it does. Worst case maybe a condenser and a new set of points. Shouldn't make a huge deal but I think I see new plugs - make sure the gap is correct.

Do you have a timing light? On the super hurricane the are two dizzy adjustments the fuel grade indexed one on top and a lesser one on bottom. Maybe see if that helps you get more adjustment room.

Keep us posted.
 
Forgot to mention, upon opening cap to distributor both wires were twisted around shaft. I replaced points and condenser due to damage. Point Gap could be off, just eye balled it. Gotta find feeler gauge tomorrow.

As far as book goes... not much with google search?
where should plug wire one be on distributor?
What is proper gap for points?
What is proper gap for plugs?

Then I will move onto timing light! Thanks for response
 
Use a business card or two in a pinch or an old matchbook cover(usually free at the local gas station still.) Then set it right with the feeler gauge when you have it.

If you look in the forum library there is a tune up sheet with the proper wire order and gaps. I think there is also a willys manual - or partial you can borrow from.
 
Check the point gap!

Does the advance mechanism work correctly? Test by turning the rotor arm clockwise and it should spring back to where it was before. If not, how much slop is in the distributor?

Check for vacuum leaks.

Do a compression check, since you say that the motor sat for several years, it's quite possible that you either have sticking valves or they rusted and no longer seal. Sticking valves usually free up with some running and clean oil (use a HD oil like Rotella 15w40). If they rusted from sitting, you'll need to dive deeper in.
 
Check the point gap!

Does the advance mechanism work correctly? Test by turning the rotor arm clockwise and it should spring back to where it was before. If not, how much slop is in the distributor?

Check for vacuum leaks.

Do a compression check, since you say that the motor sat for several years, it's quite possible that you either have sticking valves or they rusted and no longer seal. Sticking valves usually free up with some running and clean oil (use a HD oil like Rotella 15w40). If they rusted from sitting, you'll need to dive deeper in.
Turning rotor arm clock wise no movement, turns counter clock wise about 1/8-1/4” twist? No spring back in either direction... idk if that’s slop? rod does have maybe 1/32-1/16 wiggle to it side to side? Please advise

Edit... points gapped per manual .022 (Delco)

Compression test is next!
 
Now the fun begins! Compression test, manual states 125 - 140 psi
Max variance 10psi

#1 - 128
#2 - 123
#3 - 132
#4 - 0 (zero)
#5 - 107 ?
#6 - 138

Looks like I will be going in for surgery!
 
Yes don't pull the head yet. Take off the side valve cover and work on the stuck valves. Penitrating spray. There's a discussion on here somewhere on working valves loose. Good compression, they will all come up to that once the valves all get to seat and seal properly. Good luck. BCD.
 
Yes don't pull the head yet. Take off the side valve cover and work on the stuck valves. Penitrating spray. There's a discussion on here somewhere on working valves loose. Good compression, they will all come up to that once the valves all get to seat and seal properly. Good luck. BCD.
Thanks, yes that is my next plan of attack!
 
This is far less pressing than your flat cylinder, but it looks like you're running resistor spark plug wires. The stock ignition system will work better with non-resistor wires and plugs.
Good info, thanks... still learning all this, that’s what the local parts store gave me
 
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