'48 CJ-2A question

Bmcnay

Knuckle Buster
Oct 14, 2021
2
Grand Junction, CO
First Name
Butch
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1948
Guys,

I have the chance to pick up a '48 Willys, but I know nothing about them and don't even know if this is something I want to take on or if it's worth what he's asking (wants $3k). I'm looking for your expert advice on whether to get this thing or not. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.
 

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Welcome. Looks complete.

1. How bad is the rust?
2. When was the last time it ran?
3. What does it look like underneath?
Have not seen it yet, he said he drove it something like 18 years ago, blew a front leaf spring and parked under his carport ever since. From looking at the pictures would this have possibility?
 
Hear you on the spring - it looks a little tilted in the pictures.

To me, this seems like a good deal at $1.5K-$3K depending on condition etc. Not sure if you are a beginner (like me) or a master mechanic or somewhere in-between. Either way, a CJ is a great place to start. Looks of info, spare parts, etc. also a ton of help online and on CJ-specific forums like the CJ2A forum.

Last, finding old rigs in near-original (or originalish) condition is getting increasingly difficult. If you are looking to work on an old CJ, this might be a good place to start.
 
If the engine turns and has a good title, heck even not, with a bit of haggling I'd jump on it. I searched all over for
a 48 CJ, yr of my birth but no luck.
 
Last edited:
It appears to be a CJ2A with an MB windshield and an "F" head engine, meaning it's the later overhead valve engine that came in CJ3B, CJ5 etc starting in 1953.

I'd say buy it (if title and serial plates are in order) and get it running and on the road!

OKAY - I just saw Don beat me to the F head comment...
 
Butch,
Looks so similar to a '46 I purchased in 1984 to build for trekking the Rubicon Jeep Trail.
Rubicon Jeep Trail (donsnotes.com)
I am not a big fan of the F134 because your hood center stiffener seam has been cut for the F-engine series.
They are an Intake valve in-head, with exhaust valves in the block so taller than the original flathead L134 engine.
Back when i built mine, I jerked out the stock steering and chucked it all (pre-internet, and no value and I was no purist back then, nor today). I then installed cross-over power steering (Saginaw ps box) using wrecking yard sourced pieces and parts.
I welded a high steering arm to the willys knuckle, with a heavy steel strengthening web to the original, with my mig. :)
For the steering column and wheel, I used a '76 Vette tilt and telescopic unit, and shortened the column to my preferred length. Made a bracket to hang an ACDelco ps pump on the L134.
I found the early '70's chevy 350 air pump pulley darn near matched the diameter of the single L134 crank pulley, so I just lined 'er up and stitch welded one to the other, but not continuous all the way around. I was afraid of warpage.
The setup was so wonderful on that torturous Rubicon and I was running 32" 11-15 balloon tires. Two-finger steering.

I'm getting you primed for your do-over of this possible purchase. :)

Did you look for the serial number tag riveted to the outside of the driver's side frame rail immediately behind the front bumper. It should match the Firewall tag on passenger side.
Because the seats haven't fallen through the floor I would consider it.
Geeze I wonder if the seller is single, because my wife would insist "Her" auto gets the carport. hahahaha
 
Geeze I wonder if the seller is single, because my wife would insist "Her" auto gets the carport. hahahaha
And this is the reason I keep spending more money on my wife’s 26 year old car than it is worth. As soon as I upgrade her my MB gets kicked to the curb, literally.
 
And this is the reason I keep spending more money on my wife’s 26 year old car than it is worth. As soon as I upgrade her my MB gets kicked to the curb, literally.
with stimulus checks and big tax returns in April 2022, you could buy her a newer car, and a carport for the MB !!
bingo, a win win. :)
 
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