226 Freeze Plug replacement.

Davidgreen59

Precision Fit
All-Star
Jun 2, 2019
994
Arizona
First Name
David
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1959
I couldn’t find a specific thread on how to do this before I started. Maybe I just don’t search well.

I’m pulling this out of my main thread so somebody may be able to find and benefit from this.

My third from the front plug started weeping, so I decided I had to get them before they blew out.

This is behind the oil filter
AB209CE3-7344-42BB-A8A8-CD12052F111E.jpeg

1st off, I’m doing this with the engine in. Because of that, I’m not doing the 6th plug at the back of the block. You need to pull the engine to get that one, so I’m rolling the dice till I have to do that for some other reason.
Note: my engine uses 1-5/8” plugs, and I went with brass. The steel ones in there lasted 40+ yrs, so that would’ve been good too. I just went with brass cause that’s what I got from my favorite vendor.

To do this, remove the following from the stock 226:
Battery and Battery Tray. Mine unbolted.​
Oil filter and Bracket​
Oil fill Tube. clean block before pulling and twisting gently​
Generator. 3 bolts​
I try to remove as little as possible, cause I tend to break stuff or forget how to put it back, but this seems to be the minimum.

I plugged the uncovered holes with tape to keep stuff from falling in.

Drain the radiator. You should drain the block also, but I may not do that. I’ll edit the post if that’s what I do. Better to do it though.

Drive the old plugs out. I ignored the Manual’s instructions on drilling and cutting. I used a screwdriver and hammer. You tube shows this step plenty.

Cleaning the holes would be a lot easier with the engine out. My final solution was using the flat side of a standard stubby screwdriver, working around the hole. Not the end of the screwdriver that could gouge the block. I followed that with a wire wheel on a dremel. I use the flexible shaft attach for my dremel for this. I used a small mirror and flashlight to inspect the holes. I’m not sure how perfect these need to be, so I err on the more time spent here. Time will tell if they are good enough. I found this link helpful:
Felpro

After I got the holes clean enough (hopefully) I started the re-installation.

Here is what I used for sealant. I think it’s permatex 3 down under
29261B33-C2BD-40B3-B334-CE0DE044CFC0.jpeg

I just followed the instructions. Coated the block surface (using the mirror to check for holidays), coated the plug, and waited 2 min. I then set the plug in and aligned as best I could.

TIP: Use rubbing alcohol to clean this stuff off your tools after. Works great.


Here’s what I used to seat them.
DB724A0D-8531-4429-95DD-1E923F7C374E.jpeg

It’s a 1-1/8” socket with an od of 1.49”. Sits just at the bottom of the plug. Closest thing I could find. The hammer needs some heft to it, cause there’s not much room to swing doing this with the engine in. Normal carpenter hammer was a no go. I found this lying in a box of hammers we have. I just drove them in, keeping them straight as they went in. Pretty tight fit, and gotta hammer pretty hard. No action shots, cause I only have two hands.

Here’s how they came out:
1st two (from the front)
50568FF9-7637-4D15-A811-C4120CB161C0.jpeg

Look ok, I think.

3rd one, which is the one that was leaking.

02D68717-1642-4549-886F-D1F97D69EB30.jpeg

This one is a bit deeper than it should be. It’s the 1st one I did, and I installed before I took off the battery tray. Hopefully it’ll be ok as is.

Last two

83260580-7E6A-4711-AECB-4406CFEDF2E0.jpeg

I think they look ok also.

Now, I just have to let them sit a day, put everything back on that I took off, refill with new coolant, and give it a go. I’ll know soon if I’m successful, or if they leak, and this turns out to have been a “Practice Run”…

After a day, could be two, I refilled with coolant and started the engine up. 4 out of 5 seem good :( . The second one from the front looks like it’s gonna have to be a do over. Small weep / leak. And I thought #2 looked pretty good. Live n learn. Never done this before, so should be happy batting 800. Luckily I should only have to remove the oil fill tube to replace this one Oil filter, battery tray, and generator should be ok staying in place.

I’ll edit this post when I tackle this redo. May be a couple weeks.

Thanks
 
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I got a set of new Dorman plugs # 565-030 All brass plugs
The plugs look excellent,, My only complaint is
the have CHINA stamped in the very middle

I am now looking fr some NOS USA plugs if anybody
comes across some.
 
I got a set of new Dorman plugs # 565-030 All brass plugs
The plugs look excellent,, My only complaint is
the have CHINA stamped in the very middle

I am now looking fr some NOS USA plugs if anybody
comes across some.
You can use a Dremel to etch away the Made in China stamp. That's what I did. You may be able to find steel plugs that aren't made in China, but probably not the brass ones.
 
I may take one and try to braze over the CHINA but I don't know how that would work
If I Dremel the China off I am afraid it would be too thin??????
Did you have any trouble Dremel the CHINA and do you have a picture??
I just hate to put those on a brand new engine
 
I got 2 brass plugs from Wiilys America. Stamped “Made in USA@“ #1635C. That’s all they had, so I had them send them up. They said they were getting more plugs, but my flights were booked, so I supplemented with autozone.

The Chinese ones from autozone mic’d out to match the ones I got from WA.
I’m not going to bother grinding the “China” off the others I got, although I kinda like the idea. I’d always know anyway, so I’m hoping that when I look at them, all I really see is that they are NOT leaking…
 
I may take one and try to braze over the CHINA but I don't know how that would work
If I Dremel the China off I am afraid it would be too thin??????
Did you have any trouble Dremel the CHINA and do you have a picture??
I just hate to put those on a brand new engine
This is all I have for a picture, unfortunately the resolution isn't high enough to see the detail on the freeze plugs.
It wasn't hard, it just took a few moments. The stamps aren't deep, so it was only a matter of scuffing the faces to obscure the lettering.
 
How far in is too far in for freeze plugs? I got one a bit deeper than it should be. Please look at photos in my post above. It’s the freeze plug behind the filter.

Anyone know if this is gonna be a problem?
 
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How far in is too far in for freeze plugs? I got one a bit deeper than it should be. Please look at photos in my post above. It’s the freeze plug behind the block.

Anyone know if this is gonna be a problem?
I can't really answer that definitively, but it would worry me as well.

If you look at your first picture, at the beginning of the thread, the old plug on the left is driven in a ways, and it was fine, but maybe it wasn't in quite that far. Maybe go back and look at your pictures of the open holes, you should be able to judge how much contact you have. If you're right on the lip, I'd probably change it.
 
If you look at your first picture, at the beginning of the thread, the old plug on the left is driven in a ways, and it was fine, but maybe it wasn't in quite that far.
Thanks for pointing that out. The second was a bit deep originally. Maybe not as deep as my new third one, but not too far off. I’ve debated all day about to leave it or drive it out and redo it. I think I’m gonna leave it for now, unless I get some more wisdom from the forum. Fingers crossed!
 
Not sure about that plug depth, it does seem a little deep. I doubt it will leak but what would worry about is the knocking them out with a screw driver part. That does work! Done it many times myself, though always be mindful that there are castings in there behind the plugs. I know of an old mechanic who managed to actually crack the bore casting on a Perkins diesel by being a little over enthusiastic with the process. Something to keep in mind.
 
I’m back at my truck to replace the one freeze plug that was leaking after I swapped them out.
Using the same technique of a screwdriver and hammer. But, instead of rotating like a poker chip, this new one just seems to be sliding in deeper. I’m afraid it’s just going to keep going in and cause me unknown problems. Not sure if the permatex aviation sealant I used is causing this or not. My book says to drill a 1/2 hole in the plug, and somehow cut it with a hacksaw…

Not sure what I’ll do at the moment.

Any words of wisdom?
FEC2964D-2330-490C-9412-C6AEDB933FFA.jpeg
 
Round 2.
Put my second (and last) USA made plug into the spot that was the leaker. The leaker was an offshore Dorman, this one came from Willys America, but has no manuf. mark. This time I used a slightly larger socket as the “driver”. It sat on the edge of the plug instead of last time, with the socket just inside the rim.
Round 1 driver:
03F866EE-CCEA-4538-BBAC-A8D9C72FFE54.jpeg

Round 2 driver:
FEDDEA88-0EEE-4A28-B385-712895A368E1.jpeg
Hopefully this will seal tight. I’ll let it sit a day before refilling and testing.
Like I’ve said before, it’s a good thing I work alone. I ended up draining the brand new coolant into a dirty pan cause I couldn’t find a better way than to just open the petcock and let it run all over. Once I was done, I opened the truck door and there was a 3 foot section of tubing that fit right tight into the petcock. Sitting right on the front seat. Coulda saved it all…
Anyway, with luck (hahaha) this should do it. If not, third times the charm?
6B704E85-A305-4719-B13E-F0CA43F81891.jpeg

Wish me luck!
 
Round 2.
Put my second (and last) USA made plug into the spot that was the leaker. The leaker was an offshore Dorman, this one came from Willys America, but has no manuf. mark. This time I used a slightly larger socket as the “driver”. It sat on the edge of the plug instead of last time, with the socket just inside the rim.
Round 1 driver:
View attachment 152130

Round 2 driver:
View attachment 152129
Hopefully this will seal tight. I’ll let it sit a day before refilling and testing.
Like I’ve said before, it’s a good thing I work alone. I ended up draining the brand new coolant into a dirty pan cause I couldn’t find a better way than to just open the petcock and let it run all over. Once I was done, I opened the truck door and there was a 3 foot section of tubing that fit right tight into the petcock. Sitting right on the front seat. Coulda saved it all…
Anyway, with luck (hahaha) this should do it. If not, third times the charm?
View attachment 152131

Wish me luck!
Luck
Luck
Luck
 
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