1960 FC-170 dually getting a 401 AMC V8/TH400/Dana 20 combo

Seabee said:
Have you decided what to do with your reservoirs? I "t"'d into one and located it just under the upper left corner of the dash. There was already a hole there that allowed access to unscrew the cap. I added a velcroed on cover that can easily be removed to check it.
Click to expand...
I thought about running them to the right side of the dash, mounted on the outside of the dash, then some kind of faux cover painted to match the dash- BUT your idea is much better, haha.
I’m glad you spoke up and offered that clever idea; I’m getting ready to fill some needless holes on the dash and the brake fluid filler hole was on my list to axe! Thanks!2A13D2B1-295C-4364-A322-50E984CA27A0.jpegD51B6FF8-E4EF-430C-A3D5-7FD9D482F3A0.jpeg027C86CB-06F0-4D91-920E-2DA97C5498EC.jpeg
Lol, I didn’t get pics of the dash.
 
Don't forget to put residual check valves in your M/C outlet ports. Otherwise, you'll keep getting air in your system and have a spongy pedal. I think I used 6 PSI versions. Summit (et al) all sell them.
 
Seabee said:
Don't forget to put residual check valves in your M/C outlet ports. Otherwise, you'll keep getting air in your system and have a spongy pedal. I think I used 6 PSI versions. Summit (et al) all sell them.
Click to expand...
I am pretty sure this unit came with them already. The directions say to leave them in for drum brakes, and take them out for disc brakes.

I can post up pics of the one I took out- maybe I’m thinking of something different?

I dropped off measurements for a custom radiator build at the local radiator shop. I’ll let everyone know if it works out price-wise.
 
So... after this was cleaned up:
BE650D3F-A619-4E55-8BF3-5C0A9D2A9EED.jpegBF0BA691-FC0D-4B93-BD83-24E02F8D82D7.jpegFrom the windstorm yesterday, I got onto the radiator issue.

So here it goes... I went to Northwest Radiator here in Spokane, on Trent Ave.

I gave them a crude drawing, and this is what they came up with: using a “blank radiator” part number 209600b. It is available through any radiator supplier (I checked online).
As a blank, it will need inlet and outlet tubes welded on as per the client’s specs.

C7B41F31-0EC9-451D-AB84-2241C8AEB8E3.jpegD748CD91-CBCC-4878-8711-EE4119C33452.jpeg
I took their rendering home and made a CAD template (Carboard Aided Design! ). And it fit perfectly AFTER trimming the top 8” of the mounting tabs.
DC8D51F9-4FA1-437B-9096-CD50444F7903.jpegAin’t she purty? Purty flimsy! But it fit.
I wasn’t satisfied, so I made a template out of wood, as there was no flex in 5/8” plywood.

62B78975-287E-4944-B05C-D21FCB3781E1.jpegIt fit, too. Note the bottom of the wooden template has been notched when compared to the cardboard design. I remeasured and noticed the mounting tabs stopped roughly 2.3” from the bottom of the tank and did my best to make sure the wooden version was as close as I could get it.

I call them tomorrow and order it up.
 
Seabee said:
How many rows of tubes? Obviously, get as many as you can!
Click to expand...
I dropped off the paperwork and asked them if they could take the top 8.5” off the mounting tabs and they said yes.
This radiator is the equivalent to a 4 core. It “has two 1” tubes” giving it the volume of a 4 core. According to the old timer behind the desk. I will still be running massive electric fans, though.
 
I am getting all the misc. pieces degreased and cleaned. The yard is cleaned up after the storm, too. I had to file a claim for roof damage, though. So that’s now a waiting game, too.

The needed new parts are here, so the line of demarcation for install is near.

I’m pretty sure I want the radiator locked up and maybe even installed in order to get the engine/tranny/t case combo seated at the best possible location.1DC9CFA9-D0B0-4668-83B2-29EB564ABFFA.jpegYou can see the last bit of snow left over in the lower left corner of the pic from the snow we got a month ago.
 
My day was spent taking care of some circuit breaker / outlet issues:
FD9EC19F-A1BE-4598-B9BF-5EB5807CFD9C.jpegFD9EC19F-A1BE-4598-B9BF-5EB5807CFD9C.jpeg
Pretty sure this was the culprit behind the circuit breaker tripping. I guess everyone working-learning-playing at home taxed the 15 amp circuit to the kid’s rooms.
So I spent the day replacing outlets and breakers. The square d style are in short supply in this area. Everyone said the had them in stock when I called ahead, but I found they just did not have the kind I needed.

I’m glad that’s over.

Edit:

The second round of degreasing parts was completed today. I wore an apron to avoid getting too much cast-offs on me.
19D37A08-3719-4837-9B34-BDD858D35EA6.jpeg40304F2D-D24B-436E-89B0-5F3CEA724B07.jpeg
There is still quite a bit to do.
 
Last edited:
Well, I’ve been a busy guy, BUT I managed to wake up at 5am and work til noon only to find out the 401 to pre-72 Th400 isn’t doable.

C42169D8-AB78-4D8A-89B7-833BF1DEA833.jpeg

If the 401 flex plate is on (with factory spacer), it sits too far back for the starter to engage. If you flip the 401 flex plate over, you the pic above. It is just too far back to fully connect to the starter.

It looks like I have two options:

1) run one of my spare 360’s and the current transmission set up.

2) take the internals of the pre 72 and have a tranny shop put them in to a 73, or later tranny.

Oh yeah, that radiator? It won’t fit, lol, the welds stick out of the sides just enough where it’s too tight.

so.... minor body-dog house mods will be required in order to get it to fit. The “fun” never ends, eh!
 
I called the tranny shop. 200-300 to swap internals as long as they do not have put the second tranny back together.

So I’ll be selling some keep parts to offset that cost. Tough lesson to learn.
 
I don’t have to do as much as I expected to the dog house to fit the new radiator; just about 5 minutes with a metal shaping mallet (the hard plastic pear-shapes head type usually used with a lead shot bag). You can see the hammer skillfully holding the top of the radiator.

75FC68F6-003D-4737-80C2-FE0A9942D626.jpeg90BB2291-5F36-4792-AD22-2D844AA0B1F1.png
I’ll be able to reuse the existing radiator mounting holes on the body with spacers; I “just” need to fabricate brackets to keep the top of the radiator in place.

I also noticed one immediate problem: the transfer case shifter is blocked. I have a possible solution, though.

The next possible problem is wether or not the steering linkage will hit the radiator when turning the beast! I have two probable solutions for that if need be: 1) adjust the linkage all the way to the driver’s side just enough to clear it. 2) power steering conversion.

I just hope it clears. There are no easy answers at she is sitting on racks.
 
Last edited:
It was full steam ahead this weekend:

0F7A9609-6CE5-4137-B548-537544618B2A.jpeg
Note the upper right hand side of the dog house where I had to fabricate a new way to shift the 4wd. I thought I had a pic of that area before the radiator installed, but I guess not.

Here’s what the dog house looks like from the passenger’s side:

C9FE5E14-C129-4299-93C9-6D2B9B4B234D.jpeg
It’s painted white to stop the flash rust. More minor body work will be needed to make it look reasonably factory.
 
I hope so. It’s one place to start. I kinda think there will be more to cooling it than just this radiator for sure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top