1959 Wagon on 79 Wagoneer build
- Thread starter Broken Wagon
- Start date
Raghornbull
Gear Grinder
Loving the build Duane! I couldn't believe it when I saw how you opened up the rear wheel wells, I've been staring at mine and making a mental sketch of almost exactly what you did. It was awesome to see somebody having done it and make it look good, until reading your thread I was still trying to wrap my head around a good way to match the contour of the flares (if they can be called that) to extend them down to the ribbed portion after cutting, really hope you don't mind me using the oak block trick because that's genius! More than likely I'll go with 33-10.50/15s, one of my biggest considerations is having something I can drive daily if I want to. My build is still a little ways off, the wife told me I could start on my wagon after I got her '47 CJ2A where she could use it as a daily driver.... well as soon as I got that done she decided she can't live without a V8 (in something), so now I'm going to put a sbc in her CJ5, then maybe.... Really enjoying your build man, keep us updated.
mobilecascade
Bigger Hammer
This is just sitting there waiting for me to finalize my decision on where to park it permanently and fabricate some mounts.
I really like the mounts that were in the Burb. Going to replace with new and work with them in my motor mount fabrications.
These garden variety truck 5.3 engines were built to be swapped. This bad boy has a nice flat section of cast aluminum oil pan about 10 inches long on the front portion of the bottom. I parked it on top of a chunk of 2x2 .250 wall tubing clamped to the bottom of the frame rail and it self levelled side to side. With a little lift with the cherry picker, a little shove and it moves front to back or side to side, really sweet for simple mock up.
I am playing with wood spacers between the square tubing and the frame until I get her just the right height for steering shaft clearance, front driveshaft clearance etc. Right now I have a section of 2x3 spacing tube down and a couple sections of 3/8" plywood between the square tube and oil pan.
Duane
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Duane... sweet work buddy. Question on the firewall as we are doing some floorpan repairs here waiting for the cherry picker.
Looks like you pushed the factory press back a few more inches. Needed to with the wagoneer frame? Or are you setting it back to use the factory mechanical Fan/clutch?
We are going to wait until the Jeep swap meet coming in March to locate a transfer case (pass drop- maybe a NP241c) then we can mock up the whole assembly to <hopefully> set to not needing to modify drivelines. I’m going to guess tho that’s still going to be needed. As much as I’d like to go manual, the 4L60e would be good for the wife.
Good to see progress! KTF!
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Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
I pushed the firewall 3.25 inches with the original intention of keeping the mechanical fan with room for AC condenser up front of the radiator. Now after a little education, the plan is electric puller. I also wanted 2 inches minimum clear between the engine and firewall to keep from having too much heat in the cab while idling through 100 plus degree deserts. I am also going to put aluminum heat shields on the firewall and floor. I plan to wrap my exhaust system as well. Retaining dual Catalytic converters so I don't fume out my fellow Jeepers.
I also went back for better front driveshaft angles when the suspension drops out flexing. (That was an issue on my first wagon years ago) My trans combo is only about 4 inches longer than stock willys.
Duane
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Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
Huge progress this past weekend on the Willys and marriage front. Listed the Suburban parts donor, a guy came to look at the front clip and bought the whole truck. I had to put him off for 2 hours and got my oldest son and his roommate to help me yank the final treasures. The wife was so excited to have my old suburban gone, she helped sweep the driveway and even poked her head into the shop.
I was shocked to get 1200 bucks for it considering the engine, trans, seats, partial wire harness were gone. The guy was all over the clean title and non op with the DMV.
Duane
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I was shocked to get 1200 bucks for it considering the engine, trans, seats, partial wire harness were gone. The guy was all over the clean title and non op with the DMV.
Duane
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wickedwillys62
Sharpest Tool
Sweet thats a good day
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Gojeep
Well Oiled
Excellent that you got the leftovers from the donor all gone. 
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
Bodywork and bodywork. The mods are never ending. I tell myself no more mods.
Well maybe just one more.
I really want to use the full power, heated, comfy big butt seats from my Donor Suburban. Even with the motorized lift all the way down, they sit too high.
Either going to section the underseat tool boxes or remove them. Either way, there will also be a gutter made for the seat tracks to run back into the cabin beyond the bulkhead between the foot floor and cargo floor.
Quarter panels finally getting some attention. Needed a break from pinning out the factory LS wire harness. The tires are bald 33's. Need to bump the rear suspension up 2 inches to level the rig. Then going to run 35's sitting rather low.
Duane
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Well maybe just one more.
I really want to use the full power, heated, comfy big butt seats from my Donor Suburban. Even with the motorized lift all the way down, they sit too high.
Either going to section the underseat tool boxes or remove them. Either way, there will also be a gutter made for the seat tracks to run back into the cabin beyond the bulkhead between the foot floor and cargo floor.
Quarter panels finally getting some attention. Needed a break from pinning out the factory LS wire harness. The tires are bald 33's. Need to bump the rear suspension up 2 inches to level the rig. Then going to run 35's sitting rather low.
Duane
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agne2520
Well Oiled
Hey Duane. Always good to see your progress. As we all know, mission creep is inevitable, but better done now than later when you have to go back and change it because it's driving you crazy. [ I think confucius said that]
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
Been awhile since any updates. Family etc. cutting into my Willys time.
Been cutting up the floor and under seat tool boxes to lower my seats. Being headstrong on the Suburban seats. I just love the way they feel. Ha
Will post pictures when I figure out how I plan to reassemble the mess I have made.
Meanwhile I have been working on gearboxes and am closing in on my tubing bender build. I am going change up my finish process but need the roll cage built so I am not welding in the interior after paint. The hopeful plan is to get the interior and jambs painted, doors on, then slap a coat on the frame and start the real deal assembly. The firewall is just gunna be black. Not body color. Bummer but just need to drive it soon.
The bodywork will never be done. I plan to paint the roof off white, the mask and front clip dark green, then come back and paint the section below the horizontal stainless trim white. That last phase will take some doing as I am just not getting the bodywork where I want it.
Bought plans, steel, 1.75 OD die and an air/hydraulic ram.
See pictures
Duane
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Been cutting up the floor and under seat tool boxes to lower my seats. Being headstrong on the Suburban seats. I just love the way they feel. Ha
Will post pictures when I figure out how I plan to reassemble the mess I have made.
Meanwhile I have been working on gearboxes and am closing in on my tubing bender build. I am going change up my finish process but need the roll cage built so I am not welding in the interior after paint. The hopeful plan is to get the interior and jambs painted, doors on, then slap a coat on the frame and start the real deal assembly. The firewall is just gunna be black. Not body color. Bummer but just need to drive it soon.
The bodywork will never be done. I plan to paint the roof off white, the mask and front clip dark green, then come back and paint the section below the horizontal stainless trim white. That last phase will take some doing as I am just not getting the bodywork where I want it.
Bought plans, steel, 1.75 OD die and an air/hydraulic ram.
See pictures
Duane
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Pivnic
Well Oiled
Hey Duane. Here's a Heads Up. When you Build your Roll Cage, especially IF IT's A FULL ROLL CAGE, Plan Carefully so that your Roll Cage in NOT IN THE WAY of Installing a Front Wind Shield!!! I got new Windows for Floyd. I took the truck to the Glass Shop to Co-Ordinate it with the Paint Shop to have the Glass Shop Check out Floyd and get an estimate etc. They NEVER Mentioned a Possibility that the Full Roll Cage could be an Issue with the Front Windshield. So when the Paint was Done and the Glass Shop went to the Paint Shop to install the new Windows, they discovered that the Freakin Roll Cage was in the way and they COULDN'T Install the Freakin Windshield!! They said that the Roll Cage would have to be taken out! I Told them THAT IS NOT AN OPTION (Morons) as the Roll Cage was Welded Inside the Cab and that it's Impossible to Take the Roll Cage Out. The Roll Cage Ain't going anywhere!! They left and said they will come to my place to do the Windshield (Some How).
I was Really PISSED! The Glass Shop Owner Drag Races a Pro-Stock Car with a Full Roll Cage. You would think that he would have made NOTE of Floyd's Roll Cage and getting the Windshield Installed etc... So the next day I'm trying to figure out how the hell I can Resolve The Glass Shop's Problem. I ended up cutting off the Back Part of the Roll Cage. Then Unbolting the 'Feet' of the Cage at the Floor would allow them to move the Cage Back to give them enough room to Install the Damn Windshield! Willys Trucks Front Windshield are Installed from the Inside Out. Hence where the Problem with a Full Roll Cage Comes in... So Beware! It was a HUGE Pain in the Ass cutting though WELD. It took me all day and I went through TEN Sawsall Metal Blades and my Arms almost fell off!
The Glass Shop came the next day and was now able to install the windshield. Then I had to Put the Freakin Roll cage back together. I bolted the back part instead of rewelding it back to together so I won't have to do all this work if I ever need a new Windshield in the Future. There you have it! Pivnic
I was Really PISSED! The Glass Shop Owner Drag Races a Pro-Stock Car with a Full Roll Cage. You would think that he would have made NOTE of Floyd's Roll Cage and getting the Windshield Installed etc... So the next day I'm trying to figure out how the hell I can Resolve The Glass Shop's Problem. I ended up cutting off the Back Part of the Roll Cage. Then Unbolting the 'Feet' of the Cage at the Floor would allow them to move the Cage Back to give them enough room to Install the Damn Windshield! Willys Trucks Front Windshield are Installed from the Inside Out. Hence where the Problem with a Full Roll Cage Comes in... So Beware! It was a HUGE Pain in the Ass cutting though WELD. It took me all day and I went through TEN Sawsall Metal Blades and my Arms almost fell off!
The Glass Shop came the next day and was now able to install the windshield. Then I had to Put the Freakin Roll cage back together. I bolted the back part instead of rewelding it back to together so I won't have to do all this work if I ever need a new Windshield in the Future. There you have it! Pivnic
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
Thanks for the tip Pivnic. I actually encountered the same issue in the 1980's. I am going with custom 2pc windshield that will plug into to front using a 1pc weatherstrip/gasket and a homebrew modified division bar that I built from a 1950's Chevy truck divider bar. It allows the window to go in from the front while the cage fits tight to the A pillar.
Just as a backup plan and to paint the dash, I am designing it to slide back about 4 inches.
Again thx for the reminder. Hope you got yours all sorted out.
Duane
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Just as a backup plan and to paint the dash, I am designing it to slide back about 4 inches.
Again thx for the reminder. Hope you got yours all sorted out.
Duane
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48wagonguy
Sharpest Tool
Excellent progress, Duane. I need to go all the way back to the beginning of your thread and read about your journey so far. It's raining today, so that might be a good time to do it! Meanwhile, I'm loving the body you have to work with - mine is far worse, rust-wise. I'm not the best body-man, so some of the creases and dents will remain, even when I finally get the rusty panels replaced and the truck painted. I figure they were hard-won 'badges of honor', so why do away with them! (At least that's the way I rationalize things, since I don't know a thing about my wagon's history!) Meanwhile, most of the body has been in primer for quite a while, under a suspended tarp while I work on the frame. Great build!
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
I regret starting with such a crummy body. It would be done by now without all the bodywork. 4 adult children, house stuff etc leaves little on the table for the Willys budget and shop time, so I make do. The plus side is I have zero regret modifying as I replace and repair panels as this wagon was headed to the crusher.
Thx for the kind words.
Duane
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48wagonguy
Sharpest Tool
Yeah, I see now from going back, the body on your wagon was pretty bad. Makes me feel better about mine! lol I paid $600 for mine, minus a working engine, wiring, and a lot of parts. It had a worn out suspension as well, and I began to wonder if I made a huge mistake, but from watching builds on this forum, I feel like anything can be done. You've put a ton of work into yours and it's really beginning to pay off! Keep on keepin' on, and we'll both get there (you, probably well ahead of me.) As for a budget, I had to quit my part-time job after getting knee surgery, so I'm down about $800 a month. That hurts, on my fixed income! But I have time, so....
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
Lotsa hours in, little to show. Sound familiar gang?
Been under the body, all wrapped up, wire wheel and phosphoric acid. Getting ready to paint her under belly before bolting her down to the frame. Will get pictures in daylight when I am not so filthy.
Tubing bender done. It is so sweet. Started playing with freebie water pipe learning the math etc. Years and miles of electrical conduit installations proved to be valuable in tonights exercises. Very happy with how well I am going to be able to follow the A pillar for less blindspot growth.
See pictures,
Duane
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Been under the body, all wrapped up, wire wheel and phosphoric acid. Getting ready to paint her under belly before bolting her down to the frame. Will get pictures in daylight when I am not so filthy.
Tubing bender done. It is so sweet. Started playing with freebie water pipe learning the math etc. Years and miles of electrical conduit installations proved to be valuable in tonights exercises. Very happy with how well I am going to be able to follow the A pillar for less blindspot growth.
See pictures,
Duane
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agne2520
Well Oiled
Nice work Duane! Can't wait to see how you end up doing your windshield glass. Sounds interesting and hopefully, will be how I will redo mine some day Love that tubing bender as well. Looks like you bought it at a supply house. Very satisfying to build instead of buy.
Love that tubing bender as well. Looks like you bought it at a supply house. Very satisfying to build instead of buy.
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
Tonight was real roll cage bending time. Guess I should have skipped the practice phase. Screwed up my first section of pipe. Then got the first 2 bent and fitting better than I imagined possible. See the pic of them stacked on the shop floor. Almost looks like CNC bent stuff I get made by pro shops at work.
Follows the A-Pillar perfectly, 1/2" space at the dash. Popped the door on, window crank clears perfect. Eliminated both nagging flaws that I lived with in my 80's build of a 61 wagon.
1.75 OD mild steel, .120 wall tubing. At the cowl it will tie into 1/2" × 3" flat stock to the floor and a 4 bolt floor plate, then bushing core frame ties. The steel plate will leave more room for my clumsy feet.
Rear down pipe in sections so I can tac the top tubes, then weld up the top tubes with the cage sitting down in the cab with 360 degree access to the joints. B pillar tubes may have to be set into holes in the floor then capped with mount plates after the halo welds are done
Designing as I go, with a general idea of what I want.
Very happy fabricating this week.
Duane
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Follows the A-Pillar perfectly, 1/2" space at the dash. Popped the door on, window crank clears perfect. Eliminated both nagging flaws that I lived with in my 80's build of a 61 wagon.
1.75 OD mild steel, .120 wall tubing. At the cowl it will tie into 1/2" × 3" flat stock to the floor and a 4 bolt floor plate, then bushing core frame ties. The steel plate will leave more room for my clumsy feet.
Rear down pipe in sections so I can tac the top tubes, then weld up the top tubes with the cage sitting down in the cab with 360 degree access to the joints. B pillar tubes may have to be set into holes in the floor then capped with mount plates after the halo welds are done
Designing as I go, with a general idea of what I want.
Very happy fabricating this week.
Duane
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