1956 Utility Wagon

A few days ago, finished assembling the carb at long last. The stupid kit I bought (AS RECOMMENDED BY SUMMIT) was wrong in a few ways outlined below. That "bad" kit was 37-474...ending up find the needed junk by calling the Holley techs. Turns out they don't even make an exact-fit kit anymore for this particular 2300 and haven't for many years...so I had to buy another full kit (will update post with that kit number when I find it again) to make it "right." Anyway, you always start after a good cleaning right?

Carb Clean and Ready.jpg

Then move on to adding the gaskets...

Gasket One.jpg

...and the power valve. The power valve is an additional "jet" for those of you that haven't worked on a Holley before. Essentially it opens using a diaphragm when the idle vacuum drops below a certain amount to give a butt load of fuel. The tech told me that most engines run around 13 mmHg for idle so I chose to install the 6.5 (or half) per his recommendations as well. This is where that second kit came in handy as well.

Gasket Two (and Pump).jpg

Finally, the second kit had the correct sized pump diaphragm for the accelerator pump as shown here next to the larger one originally in the 37-474.

Accelerator Jacket.jpg

Adding Parts.jpg

Voila. A built Holley ready for installation. Of course, check all tolerances for the ball in the accelerator valve and set the spring for the float via the instructions.

Done.jpg

Before it went on though, one must remember to remove those evil radiator clips as @Vintage Don stated to do. I am also replacing the larger ones, but this is a start.

Don Clips.jpg
 
I just rebuilt my Holley 2300 [list #4412] 2 weeks ago. I used this list from Holley to identify the internals specs and the proper 'Renew Kit'. This list identifies 12 different 'Renew Kits' for the Holley 2300, depending on what the list number of the carb is. But, it sounds like you've already got what you need. Nicely done.
 
I just rebuilt my Holley 2300 [list #4412] 2 weeks ago. I used this list from Holley to identify the internals specs and the proper 'Renew Kit'. This list identifies 12 different 'Renew Kits' for the Holley 2300, depending on what the list number of the carb is. But, it sounds like you've already got what you need. Nicely done.

Yeah I was trying to take the easy way out but as you can see this wagon has been anything but.

That sentiment also includes the water pump for the Tornado. Some of you may recall that I rebuilt a water pump for the 230 a ways back but when I put it on now, the impeller bottomed out. Could this be the stupid military timing chain cover I have heard so much about? Nope. Careful inspection revealed that somehow during assembly the dummy who did it (me), messed it up somehow. What to do...inspection of another pump that had already been removed revealed the weep hole being moist. Then I checked the other engine I had picked up as a spare long ago...no leaks, creaks, or seizures. In other words, BINGO was his name-o!

VA Pump.jpg

A little elbow grease and on she popped. Tightened to specs with no impeller issues and turned like a breeze. I plan at some later date to take apart the rebuilt pump and see what went wrong.

VA Pump Cleaned Up.jpg

Then it was on to adding the fan spacer and fan itself. This is another important DIFFERENCE between the 226 and the 230 in that the 226 spacer is longer than the 230 but only about a 1/2". Otherwise, the fans are the same and I had one repainted long ago so that saved me a lot of time and effort.

VA Pump On.jpg

After that task just other piddly additions including carb...

Carb On.jpg

and gapping spark plugs (0.030")/installing...

Spark Plugs In.jpg

More tiny tasks to come. Deadline to get back to the body guy is in December.
 
Speaking of that body guy-->he managed to graft the firewall on. o_Oo_Oo_O

230 Firewall In.JPG

Also had him make up a battery tray as I found out the trays on these things are welded on and perpendicular to the 226 (226 long edge of battery goes to firewall and on 230 short edge does to allow fitment of everything under the hood). @timd32 was kind enough to measure out about every dimension you could conceive and that made it easy for my body guy to make one up (minus the tie down at this point). Note that the grill prop/bracket on the driver's side will need to be moved slightly inboard to make the tray/battery fit correctly.

Battery Tray 1.JPG

Battery Tray 2.JPG

So, it appears everyone is on the same page again.
 
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Speaking of that body guy-->he managed to graft the firewall on. o_Oo_Oo_O

View attachment 154429

Also had him make up a battery tray as I found out the trays on these things are welded on and perpendicular to the 226 (226 long edge of battery goes to firewall and on 230 short edge does to allow fitment of everything under the hood). @timd32 was kind enough to measure out about every dimension you could conceive and that made it easy for my body guy to make one up (minus the tie down at this point). Note that the grill prop/bracket on the driver's side will need to be moved slightly inboard to make the tray/battery fit correctly.

View attachment 154427

View attachment 154428

So, it appears everyone is on the same page again.
Looking good. Great work!
 
You are The Man Dale! Glad to see you are still moving forward. Looking forward to our next meet up Brother.

Don't know about all that Joe but I am trying my best to have something to show off at the next meet up. Haha

Looking good. Great work!

Thank you Tim for all of your help and hard work. Couldn't have made a lot of this swap happen without you and others.

Let's catch up to the current state of affairs after tonight. Managed to get the clutch cross shaft back in. New Heim joints and a coupling nut had to be purchased for the pedal end to allow full range of motion and keep everything tight as well.

Clutch Cross Shaft.jpg

Then it was time to add the PTO shaft. Unexpectedly, the 230 bellhousing was drilled to accept a similar factory bracket so the homebrew one I had created for the 226 was not needed. Still had to modify the bracket to the bellhousing but that was just some quick drill work to elongate the holes.

PTO Shaft In.jpg

Just have a few minor finishing touches left on the whole shebang like plug wires, air lines, and gas lines. However, that shouldn't take too long and I'm pleased with the progress we have made thus far.
 
Dale,

Your new battery bracket looks very much like the stock one in our '65 wagon. One detail you might want to consider is how close that battery bracket is to the carb and the throttle linkage. In our case, the factory allowed only about 1/2" clearance. Different position for the battery?
 
That bearing support should work fine. After all, all it does is "steady" the shaft to keep it from "whipping." If you are like me, it will probably never be used aggressively anyway! LOL
 
Still continuing on the winch front for now and getting the internals all reassembled. Before any reassembly though, how bought a beer?

View attachment 115218

The back story is there is no real clear definition of how much fluid to add to this Koenig winch. I know that the likely level isn't "to the fill plug" as the bushings for the driveshaft have no seal and actually have grease zerks for their own lubrication. So, Dad said I bet a beer can will fit in there and the picture was born. We figured from our experiment about 18 oz would provide adequate lubrication and cover the bottom of the ring gear. Speaking of the ring gear...had to hammer it all back together on to the driveshaft after cleaning and some minor Emery cloth work because it got all messed up hammering it out. :oops:

View attachment 115219

Below is a picture with the "pinion" gear installed instead of a beer can and the ring gear as well.

View attachment 115220

You can also see one of the end caps in the upper right of that picture and that is where the fun really began. Essentially you have to all but fully seat the pinion shaft in the end caps before final assembly or the whole thing just won't play nice. So Dad and I tried to get it all to work out, but the winch had other plans. Bottom line is the pinion shaft was mushroomed and the bushings were all messed up (hard to see with the naked eye on either front). One bushing wouldn't play nice and this is what happened.

View attachment 115221

A little closer.

View attachment 115222

The irony as shown in the second picture is that one of the bushings had been broken for some time as evidenced by the oxidation. Anyway, I measured the ID/OD with my micrometer and believe that Grainger has these in stock. Another project that just won't give up without a fight.
This is probably digging back a ways, do you have or recall measurements for the bushing in the A arm side of your winch?
Mine is missing, I think it’d work better if that bushing was reinstalled.
Thanks-
 
This is probably digging back a ways, do you have or recall measurements for the bushing in the A arm side of your winch?
Mine is missing, I think it’d work better if that bushing was reinstalled.
Thanks-

Logan,

Let me get back to you with some measurements...they were available at the local hardware store as I recall so not all that uncommon.

Minor updates on the project itself in terms of what I am doing. Had a rough time bending stainless with the tubing bender Dad and I bought from Summit so ended up sourcing an older Rigid Bender that was made in America...did the trick and kept on kicking. Ended up finishing more than just these vacuum lines but we all know how pictures go sometimes. Just have to add fluids and then we will try bump starting before the chassis returns to the body guy...

IMG_6077.jpg

...speaking of him...he is moving at the speed of galloping turtles...again...but moving. Tailgate holes had to be redrilled as a prior employee messed them up. Also the Tornado firewall bump has finally been grafted and primed in place.

Tailgate After Hole Fixing.JPG

Tornado Cut Out.JPG

Primed Tornado Cut Out.JPG

Says he will have paint on within 2 months. I doubt it but hey crazier things have happened.
 
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Ship it to @Gojeep's painter. :) ;)
I think the shipping might be cheap, compared to the paint job.

I still have problems grasping the idea of 10-$20,000 paint jobs. I think most car manufactures in the 40's, 50's and 60's might have spent 30 minutes on prep and 15 minutes painting. In the end they might have spent 2 bucks on paint. The early Willys trucks20210519_161525_HDR.jpg all seemed to be Potomac Grey. There just happens to be a US Navy Supply Depot on the Potomac River. After WW2 they probably sold Willys a couple hundred 55 gallon drums of Battle Ship Grey paint. I used US Forest Service surplus Pea green on my wagon. I might have $100.00 in material.
 
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Logan,

Let me get back to you with some measurements...they were available at the local hardware store as I recall so not all that uncommon.

Minor updates on the project itself in terms of what I am doing. Had a rough time bending stainless with the tubing bender Dad and I bought from Summit so ended up sourcing an older Rigid Bender that was made in America...did the trick and kept on kicking. Ended up finishing more than just these vacuum lines but we all know how pictures go sometimes. Just have to add fluids and then we will try bump starting before the chassis returns to the body guy...

View attachment 160549

...speaking of him...he is moving at the speed of galloping turtles...again...but moving. Tailgate holes had to be redrilled as a prior employee messed them up. Also the Tornado firewall bump has finally been grafted and primed in place.

View attachment 160548

View attachment 160547

View attachment 160546

Says he will have paint on within 2 months. I doubt it but hey crazier things have happened.
Thanks!
I pulled a tap measure on mine and came up with 1 7/8OD by 1 1/4 ID. But that’s a bit of a swag, if you have a mic and could measure I would greatly appreciate it.
My local hardware store didn’t have anything close. But the big town an hour away might.
 
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