1946 CJ2A mounting body to frame.

Tree Top Flyer

Bigger Hammer
Jul 9, 2023
88
Minden, Nevada
First Name
Dale
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1946
Just another dumb question from a rookie flat fender builder. I bought my "46" in boxes, and most of this build has been like a blind man in a mine field. I am getting ready to drop the tub onto the frame, and my question is: The front attach points, tub to frame, are different from the rest on the frame brackets. The bracket is bigger, and appears to need a longer bolt to go through both the upper and lower holes on the bracket. If that is correct, then do I need to add a "sleeve between the two bolt holes? If not, why is this bracket so different?

Also, at the very back of the frame, should there be brackets of some kind to secure the tub to it as well? This build, with so many things missing is trying my patience! I would appreciate any help you all could give. Does anyone know of a exploded view of the frame? Thanks.
 
"Also, at the very back of the frame, should there be brackets of some kind to secure the tub to it as well?"

Yes, there are supposed to be four "L" shaped brackets to attach the body to the rear crossmember. Two are on the valance panel under the tailgate opening, and the other two are on bottom of the tail light panels. Replacement brackets are available at many suppliers of Jeep body parts.

When I mount a body tub I start at the front. Having the front clip (fenders and grill) bolted to the frame. If the frame is distorted it is a lot easier to make adjustments at the rear than it is to correct gaps between fender and tub at front.
 
Here is a pic of my frame. The red circle are where I dropped in some bolts. Those 4 on the back plus the 2 shoulder bolts. Kind of like a carriage bolt but don’t stick up as high

Lots more bolts as you move up front per the first photo

I also have the fender bolts in a kit too

IMG_4971.jpeg
 
Tree Top Flyer said:
and my question is: The front attach points, tub to frame, are different from the rest on the frame brackets. The bracket is bigger, and appears to need a longer bolt to go through both the upper and lower holes on the bracket. If that is correct, then do I need to add a "sleeve between the two bolt holes? If not, why is this bracket so different?
Click to expand...
Is this the one you're referring to? Picture is from my dad's (then mine) MB, but a 2A should be the same in this regard.
The upper hole is the body mounting bracket, the lower one, is for the transmission/T-case crossmember
On the body, they should be #2 per the diagram Jim posted.
148.jpg
Nando.
 
Bitzf4 said:
Most bolts you can buy at your local hardware but #2 and # 5 are a bit harder to find. I have a body kit with all of these I sell not to make a ton of money (more likely loose it)

If you are interested search in for sale body bolts or my stuff. @Bitzf4
Click to expand...
Many thanks! I'd like to buy that body kit. Can you email me the information on how to purchase to: ddar108@yahoo.com.
 
If youns don’t mind me jumping in here, are there pieces of wood and or rubber spacers between the body and frame, for some reason I thought I remembered removing these but it might have been from my 61 Truck!? Also has anyone installed rubber spacers between the frame and body as sort of a 1” body lift, would it affect the petal displacement or other issues?
 
Yes an inch lift can effect pedal placement. I used 1/4" and 7/16" Polyurethane pads sold by Summit Racing (its a universal kit not specific to Willys) They worked very well.
 
Most of the parts houses have some version of spacers and isolation pads.

These are from KW (which I think everything is on sale right now 10% off).

IMG_5149.jpeg
IMG_5148.pngIMG_5147.png
 
Thank you all for the responses, it’s funny how different those packages are, specially the bolts than the originals like Bitzf4’s display, that is absolutely perfect display, I’ll probably copy that and my original bolts to bolt the body down, and thanks for saving me from having to tear it all apart after attempting to lift it an inch Mark! My pedal alignment and displacement is already wonky!!
 
I used these on my wagon and so far the've been fine; https://www.zoro.com/anchor-industr...otor-mount-2123-2123/i/G9494489/?q=2123+mount They're available from several vendors at varying prices so shop around using the part number.

I accidentally ordered these by mistake and gave them as Christmas present to a guy building a CJ2A. https://www.zoro.com/anchor-industr...otor-mount-2122-2122/i/G9492160/?q=2122+mount

If you search on the part numbers a bit you can find the dimensional specs, the above info from Zoro doesn't seem to differentiate the differences. I needed thicker ones for the wagon.
 
I notice the Kits stop at one inch thickness.

I had a VW Baja Bug, with a 2” body lift. I believe it was made of metal. I don’t remember any pedal issues, but it’s apples to oranges.

I need to replace the ones in this CJ-3A, and plan on using 1/2” pads. Post up a few photos when you’re done, so we can see how it looks.
 
Bitzf4 said:
Most bolts you can buy at your local hardware but #2 and # 5 are a bit harder to find. I have a body kit with all of these I sell not to make a ton of money (more likely loose it)

If you are interested search in for sale body bolts or my stuff. @Bitzf4
Click to expand...
I received your bolt kit. Thanks for sending so quick.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top