And how is your Backlash?

ndnile

ndnile

Well Oiled
All-Star
Oct 23, 2017
2,675
Northern CA
First Name
Doug
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1959
I just adjusted the intake valves on my new-to-me M170 with an F-134. Spec is 0.018 of backlash on the intake valves. My #4 was 0.066. Next worse was #1 at 0.023. I hope that quiets things down a bit. Took off the exhaust manifold to remove the valve cover on the block to get to the exhaust valves, but haven't adjusted them yet. Broke 2 studs. I'm a rookie mechanic. I hate it when stuff like that happens. Not asking for help. Just venting.
 
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You have a solid lifter cam so there will be noise when it's running, kinda like a a sewing machine. You're setting the valve lash not backlash, all the exhaust valves should be set to the same spec and all the intake valves should be set their spec too.

Post up some pics so we can see what you're working on.
 
I'd be really curious why the lash increased so much. You can be pretty sure they weren't set that way last time, and lash normally tightens up with normal use and wear. Was it running on all 4 with good compression before you started with the valves? Are the pushrods straight?
 
Herk said:
I'd be really curious why the lash increased so much. You can be pretty sure they weren't set that way last time, and lash normally tightens up with normal use and wear. Was it running on all 4 with good compression before you started with the valves? Are the pushrods straight?
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Hi Nate,

I would not say it was running smooth, but it was running on all 4. Dry compression on a cold engine going #1->#4 cyl was 100, 100, 105, 115.
Oddly, #4 which was the one way out of spec had the best compression.

Nothing was obvious about a bent push rod, but I will give it a closer look. You said that the lash normally tightens with use, but all of the intakes were at or greater than spec. Ranging from a couple thou to nearly 50 thou out. Perhaps it was just a poor mechanic that opened it up last time.

Today I will try to dodge a few honey-do's and tackle the two broken studs. I get nervous doing stuff like that. I'm one of those bolt-on, bolt-off mechanical types. I get that wrong enough times, that I have little reason to trust myself with a drill, easy-out and possibly a torch.
 
Before you put the valve cover back on, make sure all 4 valves open the same amount. No need to get too precise, a steel ruler next to the valvespring should do. If they all open the same amount, it's a pretty good indication the lower valvetrain is in good health.
 
I haven’t repaired the sheared studs yet. Been busy under other hoods.
 
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