AND SO IT BEGINS: 1956 CJ5 total basketcase rebuild...

Casa Rocket
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I thought you were further out in the boonies.
Alta is the Boonies! Yep 584 That's me. Down town Alta. 9-15-2014_015.JPGThe house is 100 years old next year. When we bought it , it had an aluminum roof. About 10 years ago I re-modeledthe upstairs, from 2 small bedrooms to a Master Bedroom and bath, I took 16 feet out of the roof and built a shed roof dormer for more head room. Since aluminum roofing is out of style, I went with red metal, only to be seen by satelite.

It's an interesting house. The Alta Powerhouse was built in 1901 on a Penstock from Drum Forebay. the original caretaker house burned in 1920, and my house was built in 1922 as extra housing for the workers.
There is not one piece of sheet rock anywhere. It's all 1/4" hard wood paneling with bats between each sheet.9-15-2014_022.JPG
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I second that. It's more work but It's worth it I think. My brides truck gets lots of comments on the under hood finish work.
I think you're right. You guys talked me into it. I've got an entire gallon of the Gun Metal Grey, and only half a CJ + the dash to paint. Black under the hood is too easy, and doesn't clean up as well as a good Urethane finish.
 
The front fenders are darn near perfict and the grill will need to be sand blasted because of all the "nooks and crannies". I'm planning on doing the firewall Body color, but I'm trying to decide it I want to prep and paint the inner fender wells and under the hood with Body color, or used the satin black.
I vote you get yourself some color matched RaptorLiner from UPol. Helps with sound, rockchips, ect. Two part, cured, sprays on, tough.
 
Seems like everyone want to make more work for me and get me to spend more money. Doesn't Re-Tired meen something like tired again or still tired. And I'm on a fixed income which meens I'm broke$$;). But I don't owe anyone anything. Everything is paid for house, cars, all of it.:cool:

Keep Moving Forward!
 
Seems like everyone want to make more work for me and get me to spend more money. Doesn't Re-Tired meen something like tired again or still tired. And I'm on a fixed income which meens I'm broke$$;). But I don't owe anyone anything. Everything is paid for house, cars, all of it.:cool:

Keep Moving Forward!
More work? We are just trying to slow you down so the rest of us don't look so bad! Oh, it looks like you can use your left over paint to tint Raptor, too!

From their web site "Visit your local automotive paint (PBE) supply store, and they can help you color match. RAPTOR is compatible with any solvent based color, including 2K acrylic solid color and mixed acrylic basecoats, and can be added up to 10% by volume (ask your paint supplier to leave out the binders if possible for best pigment density). NOTE: Acrylic basecoat toners tend to have high color strength so use sparingly (less than 10% tint by volume)."
 
I guess you can say it was an Exhausting day here in Alta. I drove to Auburn first thing this morning and picked up my Radiator from Mark at Servicecenter Radiator and Auto Air. He said I did good on Craigslist. it's in great shape. He just changed the bottom outlet to 1 3/4" to match my 5.0 water pump and boiled and tested it. It's nice that it fits the CJ7 Grille so well.

exhausting day 012.jpg
I finished up the welds on the Y-Pipe and installed it with new header flange gaskets and built a bracket to attache it to one of the transfer case mounting bolts.

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Everything clears without hitting on both sides and over the crossmember.

exhausting day 007.jpg
I installed the Holley Red Hot Cherry Bomb glass pack muffler in the middle with slip joints and clamps so it will come apart, plus the Y-Pipe has a 2 bolt flange also.

exhausting day 008.jpg
The Rover pipe section over the rear axle took the most cutting and fitting to make it work, and it's hung with a rubber muffler hanger at the top of the curve over the axle.
exhausting day 009.jpg


I re-used the Rover final resonator also at the very back. It's stainless and in good condition. It reminds me a Turbo muffler just a perferated pipe in one side and out the other. And any time I need in the future I can replace with a turbo muffler. I didn't think it alone would be quiet enough, so I used the glass pack also. I needed to fill about 28" in the middle where the Rover huge muffler was, and the Glass Pack from Summit Racing was cheaper than a straight piece of pipe.

exhausting day 010.jpg

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Those of you who voted for body color under the hood lost out. It was way too much prep to get that old hood patched up and presentable underneath, so it's Satin Black. Firewall and inner fenders will still be body color. I might use some sort of undercoat or textured paint with the Satin Black also.
exhausting day 014.jpg
 
That's some fascintating work product. Form, function. Its got an appeal, that is for sure!

As for the surface smoothing, being totally unwware, it seems like a light solution could help. Beacuse, they laser level huge acreages, and tiny silicon chips. A laser would show what needs addressed. Just curious laser leveling is a thing in restos?

If I am understanding correctly, its actually a problem of smoothing a flat surface with dimples. You cant stretch it like a bed sheet because it would bend out of square. You probably could do accretion, add molten metal and grind to level, but that brings other problems.

Im just wondering why tech hasnt solved this.
 
I guess you can say it was an Exhausting day here in Alta. I drove to Auburn first thing this morning and picked up my Radiator from Mark at Servicecenter Radiator and Auto Air. He said I did good on Craigslist. it's in great shape. He just changed the bottom outlet to 1 3/4" to match my 5.0 water pump and boiled and tested it. It's nice that it fits the CJ7 Grille so well.

View attachment 106844
I finished up the welds on the Y-Pipe and installed it with new header flange gaskets and built a bracket to attache it to one of the transfer case mounting bolts.

View attachment 106845
Everything clears without hitting on both sides and over the crossmember.

View attachment 106847
I installed the Holley Red Hot Cherry Bomb glass pack muffler in the middle with slip joints and clamps so it will come apart, plus the Y-Pipe has a 2 bolt flange also.

View attachment 106848
The Rover pipe section over the rear axle took the most cutting and fitting to make it work, and it's hung with a rubber muffler hanger at the top of the curve over the axle.
View attachment 106852


I re-used the Rover final resonator also at the very back. It's stainless and in good condition. It reminds me a Turbo muffler just a perferated pipe in one side and out the other. And any time I need in the future I can replace with a turbo muffler. I didn't think it alone would be quiet enough, so I used the glass pack also. I needed to fill about 28" in the middle where the Rover huge muffler was, and the Glass Pack from Summit Racing was cheaper than a straight piece of pipe.

View attachment 106853

View attachment 106855

Those of you who voted for body color under the hood lost out. It was way too much prep to get that old hood patched up and presentable underneath, so it's Satin Black. Firewall and inner fenders will still be body color. I might use some sort of undercoat or textured paint with the Satin Black also.
View attachment 106856
Looks like it was made for it. Oh wait. It was. Nice work.
 
That's some fascintating work product. Form, function. Its got an appeal, that is for sure!

As for the surface smoothing, being totally unwware, it seems like a light solution could help. Beacuse, they laser level huge acreages, and tiny silicon chips. A laser would show what needs addressed. Just curious laser leveling is a thing in restos?

If I am understanding correctly, its actually a problem of smoothing a flat surface with dimples. You cant stretch it like a bed sheet because it would bend out of square. You probably could do accretion, add molten metal and grind to level, but that brings other problems.

Im just wondering why tech hasnt solved this.
HUH?
 
That's some fascintating work product. Form, function. Its got an appeal, that is for sure!

As for the surface smoothing, being totally unwware, it seems like a light solution could help. Beacuse, they laser level huge acreages, and tiny silicon chips. A laser would show what needs addressed. Just curious laser leveling is a thing in restos?

If I am understanding correctly, its actually a problem of smoothing a flat surface with dimples. You cant stretch it like a bed sheet because it would bend out of square. You probably could do accretion, add molten metal and grind to level, but that brings other problems.

Im just wondering why tech hasnt solved this.
Okay, now I have a brain cramp!
 
That's some fascintating work product. Form, function. Its got an appeal, that is for sure!

As for the surface smoothing, being totally unwware, it seems like a light solution could help. Beacuse, they laser level huge acreages, and tiny silicon chips. A laser would show what needs addressed. Just curious laser leveling is a thing in restos?

If I am understanding correctly, its actually a problem of smoothing a flat surface with dimples. You cant stretch it like a bed sheet because it would bend out of square. You probably could do accretion, add molten metal and grind to level, but that brings other problems.

Im just wondering why tech hasnt solved this.
I'm not quite sure how a laser would help on the inside of a concave multi angle hood. My cat might have fun with it.;)

The problem was the P,O,'s 12 extra holes he had drilled in the hood:mad:, that needed to be filled. And all the compound angles, curves, and the hat channel and support beams under the hood would take days of DA and hand sanding to get it prepped for a really nice coat of paint.:p It's a Jeep CJ5. Rust-Oleum Satin black and Under coating is fine with me..
 
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We are talking about builds where the amount of weld material is weighed as to vehicle balance. There cant be that much more material, filled in divits or sanded off, on a hood. Paint and filler weigh.

Must be some way to backwards engineer one of these scanning cameras, 3D printers, lasers, whatever, to tell you enough info so you see exactly where to sand before you even strip the hood. Leaving only what you need to fill.

Im not saying its not incredibly stupid commentry by me. It was.
 
I'm not quite sure how a laser would help on the inside of a concave multi angle hood. My cat might have fun with it.;)

The problem was the P,O,'s 12 extra holes he had drilled in the hood:mad:, that needed to be filled. And all the compound angles, curves, and the hat channel and support beams under the hood would take days of DA and hand sanding to get it prepped for a really nice coat of paint.:p It's a Jeep CJ5. Rust-Oleum Satin black and Under coating is fine with me..

Just bothers me when you all get wound up. This build of yours is a thing of beauty. But no way is this hood turning all steam punk! Keep on sanding!
 
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