Looking at a '46 CJ2A

Starting to replace the tub, one panel at a time.
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I removed the back half which didn’t take much as most of the bolts were rusted out.
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The frame got wire wheeled and painted. The rear bumper/crossmember was cracked on the driver side and had already been welded on so it had to go.
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I scavenged the rear floor and wheelhouses from a 3b that I’ve been repairing as well. It needed some patchwork done but it’s much straighter than what I had.
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I’m kinda bouncing around, keeps it interesting I guess. Still doing body work but opened up the trans and tcase this weekend both had water in them but the gears look way better than I expected. The gears don’t appear to have any pitting or corrosion. I think a good cleaning and a rebuild kit will be sufficient.
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Loving your build, keep the updates coming. Where did you get the body panels from? New or used? My tub is in much worse shape than yours and I'm trying to figure out if I just look for a replacement or start patching it together.
 
It’s a mix of original, new, and used body parts now. I ordered a new passenger quarter panel with step, driver and passenger side panels, tail light panels, and tailgate surround. They’re all either MD Juan brand or original reproductions ordered either from eBay or walck’s. I replaced the bedfloor and wheel houses with usable parts from a 3a. The dash/cowl/firewall and everything forward are still original.

Here’s the backside currently, the tailgate is a used but very straight piece I found local to me.
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Test fitting driver side panel.
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The mdjuan panels are convenient but they need massaging. I’m going to have to re-bend the curve at the back where it meets the tail light panel because it isn’t straight.


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It’s a mix of original, new, and used body parts now. I ordered a new passenger quarter panel with step, driver and passenger side panels, tail light panels, and tailgate surround. They’re all either MD Juan brand or original reproductions ordered either from eBay or walck’s. I replaced the bedfloor and wheel houses with usable parts from a 3a. The dash/cowl/firewall and everything forward are still original.

Here’s the backside currently, the tailgate is a used but very straight piece I found local to me.
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Test fitting driver side panel.
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The mdjuan panels are convenient but they need massaging. I’m going to have to re-bend the curve at the back where it meets the tail light panel because it isn’t straight.


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Yeah there isn't much usable on mine. Its pretty tore up. I'm close to just pulling the body off and starting on the underside just to see what I can do or if its even worth doing. Yours is looking great, thats some good inspiration. What in the world are those two balls coming off the bumper?
 
I honestly don’t know what they ardor their purpose. They curve under the springs like they’re intended to protect them. The round knobs look exactly like a 2” ball for a trailer. No one has ever offered an identification and I haven’t seen them in photos of other 2a’s. They were chromed but I painted them black for now.
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It’s in one piece again!
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I repaired an original 3a seat frame and installed a cushion/cover set. Got to sit in it for the first time:)

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Where did you source your new floor pan, or did you made it from 16 ga mild steel ?
nice work by the way !

One comment, it seems that many old engines I tear down have the Oil-rings Stuck in the pistons with carbon. To check that of course, you would have to remove the heads 'again' which I know you wouldn't want to do. And I don't think any oil additive would break free rings stuck in pistons.
I have seen this time after time where the seller says "yep, it was recently rebuilt" which could have been 26 years ago for all we know. Used engines are a crap-shoot until you disassemble them to know what it there. Did you say you checked the main and rod bearings ?

and just curious of what engine you are running in your Gladiator pickup.
 
The front floor pans were aftermarket pieces from classic enterprises I think. I made my own floor pans for the gladiator and this time figured I’d go the “easy” route.

I didn’t do much to the Buick 198 when I tore it down. The culprit was stuck valves. I am curious to see if it’ll run but I was recently given a 225 so I may go with that instead.

The gladiator has an AMC327/t98/Dana 20 in it.
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I got a used set of 225 fender well headers for free and made them fit the 198. The exhaust ports line up perfectly but I needed to grind away some material from the connecting flanges to clear the lower head bolts.
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Zack where in Oregon are you located? I'm in Silverton. When you go to change your front brakes to 11" (if you do) give me a PM I might be able to help you with finding backing plates. Also unless you stuck on the tilt column thing Ididit makes a classic hot rod column that except for the built in Grant type three bolt adapter at the top looks just like a stock column. Costs a lot less then a Tilt with none of the head aches.

Mark W.
 
Zack where in Oregon are you located? I'm in Silverton. When you go to change your front brakes to 11" (if you do) give me a PM I might be able to help you with finding backing plates. Also unless you stuck on the tilt column thing Ididit makes a classic hot rod column that except for the built in Grant type three bolt adapter at the top looks just like a stock column. Costs a lot less then a Tilt with none of the head aches.

Mark W.

I’m in Oregon City, not too far from you. I’m 44bz on the cj2a page. My username is what it is over here because I originally created this account for my dad and his 350 powered 1960 Willy’s truck but he doesn’t do the internet thing much.

I’ll look into the ididit columns. I probably don’t need a tilt. I put a flaming river tilt in my gladiator and it was spendy.

I have a line on a rebuilt Dana 25 with 11” drums and a standard tie rod/draglink on it for Saginaw steering that I think I’ll be able to pickup for a couple hundred bucks.


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Zack,
Ok, stuck valves, you are probably good-to-go then. Let's hope. It looks and sounds like you a making good progress. Nice work !

So, what do you think of the 327 ? I have never owned one of those engines, so i don't know anything about them. But i like that T-98 idea.
I put a T-18 into my '77 CJ-7 back in 1984 using the Novak kit. What a great working transmission, and great for creepy-crawling.
 
Zack,
Ok, stuck valves, you are probably good-to-go then. Let's hope. It looks and sounds like you a making good progress. Nice work !

So, what do you think of the 327 ? I have never owned one of those engines, so i don't know anything about them. But i like that T-98 idea.
I put a T-18 into my '77 CJ-7 back in 1984 using the Novak kit. What a great working transmission, and great for creepy-crawling.

I don’t have experience with very many motors but the 327 has been fine. I’ve enjoyed working on it. I put a 4bbl intake on it, dual exhaust and pertronix ignition. It makes good power and can spin the 35s on dry pavement. It’s fun to drive.


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I’m in Oregon City, not too far from you. I’m 44bz on the cj2a page. My username is what it is over here because I originally created this account for my dad and his 350 powered 1960 Willy’s truck but he doesn’t do the internet thing much.

I’ll look into the ididit columns. I probably don’t need a tilt. I put a flaming river tilt in my gladiator and it was spendy.

I have a line on a rebuilt Dana 25 with 11” drums and a standard tie rod/draglink on it for Saginaw steering that I think I’ll be able to pickup for a couple hundred bucks.


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Cool if you get down this way let me know I enjoy show and tell
 
Cool if you get down this way let me know I enjoy show and tell

Will do! I drove my gladiator out there the back way a few months ago to pickup a hardtop for the 2a - out through canby and Yoder to Marquam then down into silverton. It was a fun drive.


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Will do! I drove my gladiator out there the back way a few months ago to pickup a hardtop for the 2a - out through canby and Yoder to Marquam then down into silverton. It was a fun drive.


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I thought that was you who bought the top here in town.

Mark W.
 
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