Thanks for this. The question I have is how does the motor worm gear de-couple from the steering shaft gear if the motor fails? The gear on the steering shaft can't turn the worm, can it?
How about electric power steering?
- Thread starter duke94
- Start date
I haven't been able to glean any data regarding fail-safe mode... but it looks like you'd be able to overcome the motor through the worm gear if no power was supplied to the motor... but I'm still researching. Here's another EPS maker in UK.
http://litesteer.com/fitting/self-fitting/
http://litesteer.com/fitting/self-fitting/
captainlance
Well Oiled
I asked that question when speaking to the factory rep. She said it reverts exactly to what you had before, effort-wise.
Tralehead
Well Oiled
Bump... I hope to see someone giving this a shot
I’m giving it a shot. Kit should be here next week.
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Tralehead
Well Oiled
If you do "build" thread I doubt anyone would mind. Looking forward to your project!
OK, now the fun begins! Unit arrived today.
First impressions:
> looks like a quality piece, no cheap plastic parts.
> Uses GM Weatherpack connector
>No instructions included, but a video is on their website.
>Wiring seems to be plug and play. Run a power feed and ground rest is pre-wired connectors.
>You can turn the shaft easily by hand so if the unit fails, it's just normal steering.
>There are 2 couplers one at each end that will have to be welded to the shaft.
>The shaft thru the center of the unit is not hollow, so horn wire needs to be rerouted somehow.
First impressions:
> looks like a quality piece, no cheap plastic parts.
> Uses GM Weatherpack connector
>No instructions included, but a video is on their website.
>Wiring seems to be plug and play. Run a power feed and ground rest is pre-wired connectors.
>You can turn the shaft easily by hand so if the unit fails, it's just normal steering.
>There are 2 couplers one at each end that will have to be welded to the shaft.
>The shaft thru the center of the unit is not hollow, so horn wire needs to be rerouted somehow.
That does look nice. Since I modify most things I buy, first thing would be a visit to a gun smith to drill a 1/16" (or so) for a 22 AWG horn wire.
Don't be jealous until after WE make it work. I've already checked with Jo Sheets at Midwest Willys to be sure they have a good used column in case this is a bust. But, in eyeing the thing up, as long as I cut the shaft and tube the right length (measure 20 times, cut once!) it seems fairly simple.
Tralehead
Well Oiled
I'm seeing what looks like an exit hole drilled into the upper column coupler, most likely for the horn wire. Prolly better than having that pesky horn wire coming up from the depths of Ross box hell
Of course it keeps the brake switch wiring company.Really looking forward to the next installment of this story.
Igotthewillys
Precision Fit
Awesome. Glad you spent your money first
The length from one end to the other (the sleeves the tube goes in) is 8.75". The tubes go into the sleeve about 1" so about 6.5" will need to be removed from the tube, more from the shaft. I'll be more precise as I get more into it.
captainlance
Well Oiled
Full diagram of unit's size on top of page 3 of this post.
vintagetrk
Well Oiled
I'm trying to make a sketch of the column and EPS so I don't do something stupid like cut it too short! Got it this far.
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Made some progress today. I've mocked up the tubes and shaft using a piece of conduit and another tube. I have the tube lengths correct. Gotta say I'm a little nervous about cutting the shaft. I was a little off on the lower tube dimension so don't use what I have on the sketch above. It looks like it will fit under the dash rather nicely, but I think it will need some sort of support bracket to hold the motor to the dash. So far so good.
