So I know that the correct windshield on my 1961 would be the single 1-piece, but during its prior restoration, someone put in a 2-piece windshield using flat glass. I'm going to be working on pulling the windshield and back tailgate glass out this weekend as it's the last stuff left, and I'm shooting primer on the interior.
My question is, I've seen a piece of metal that goes up and down in the middle between the 2 panes of glass. What does this do, and does anyone have a picture of this piece? The way mine is now, there's just a piece of gasket in between the panes with no metal piece in between. Just the gasket all the way around and in between in the middle. I know to be correct I should put a 1-piece windshield in, but that costs lots of $. I'm planning on having a glass shop cut all the new glass using my old glass as templates. They've done work on my CJ before, so I know they do good work, and they're a good group.
Also, any advice on removing the windshield or tailgate glass? I've done the CJ windshields before by just cutting the gasket and patiently pushing it out. It looks like the same process should work for me on the wagon. One piece is shattered, so here's to hoping it doesn't come out in a million pieces.

Wagon 2-piece windshields
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Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:44 pm Location: Lutz, FL Willys Year: 1961 Willys Type: Wagon |
1986 Jeep CJ-7 (AMC 258 I6, T176, Dana 300, AMC20 rear, Dana 30 front)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon (L6-226, T-90, Dana 18, Dana 44 rear, Dana 25 front) |
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Silicond,
I've done four Willys windshields. Three of them split. One was a single. The split Removal: Once you have the interior windshield frame removed, taking out the windscreens is not difficult. Assuming that nobody has glued or siliconed it from the inside. Use two people (if you want to save gasket and glass). One folds the gasket down on the inside and pushes out while the other waits for the prime opportunity to wedge something (like a wood shim) behind to keep it from sucking back in and progress on. Installation: This is more difficult. ONLY because if you have an interior, the fabric and the tack wood strips need to be removed. There just isn't any room to maneuver if you leave it in. Once it is removed it takes about 10 minutes to pop in the new glass and gasket. 1. Soak the groove of the gasket with WD-40 or something slippery. I found that bar soap leaves a pretty slick film too. 2. Put a piece of small diameter rope (about 5/16 or so) in the groove and lay the whole assembly up on the cowl. 3. Two person concept again. One pushes while the other pulls the rope CAREFULLY as to not rip the gasket and that's it. I've done this both from the outside and the inside. In my opinion it was easier from the inside. The one piece Windshield: The gasket has a folding lip that is hard to see. Look very closely and you'll see a seam in the middle of the rubber. Use something like an orange peeling stick and insert it in the seam and pop the inner diameter up and out. Once this is done all the way around the windshield will come out easily. Install with reverse application. Remember, the inside trim and fabric need to be removed. Rear Windows. Original gaskets will be of the same "split" variety as the single piece windshield. After market gaskets will be solid and will probably tear if you are not careful. I put the lift gate in the up position and work from the bottom to remove them. They won't fall on the ground that way. Good luck. Steve |
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New Member ![]()
Posts: 84
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:44 pm Location: Lutz, FL Willys Year: 1961 Willys Type: Wagon |
Thanks for the info! That sounds fairly straightforward then. So on the split windshields, is there just gasket in between or is there a piece of trim or anything in the middle?
1986 Jeep CJ-7 (AMC 258 I6, T176, Dana 300, AMC20 rear, Dana 30 front)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon (L6-226, T-90, Dana 18, Dana 44 rear, Dana 25 front) |
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Posts: 105
Images: 5 Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 5:34 pm Location: Vancouver, BC Willys Year: 1965 Willys Type: Wagon |
On the split flat-glass windshields the centre vertical rubber has holes in it. There is an inner bar and outer metal bar - one has two bolts to hold the two together - sandwiching the rubber between.
Our '65 wagon of course has the one piece glass (cracked) and i will copy your system of putting in two flat pieces instead. Some glass shops that are experienced doing hotrod windshields will make up two pieces with an accurate bevel in the middle where they meet. i have seen rods that have a very thin layer of silicone in the vertical joint and have no rubber at all. It can look very good if properly done. The amazing thing about later Willys wagons is that they have curved front glass in a flat frame and flat rear tailgate glass in a curved frame. Very odd or perhaps the engineers had a sense of humor... Cheers 1965 Willys 4X4 wagon (Tornado OHC 230 I6 with Ford EDIS ignition, T90, D18, D44 rear, D25 front with Chevy discs, Koenigs front winch, Saginaw power steering, 4 shoulder belts) Sunroof one day?
Website: http://www.members.shaw.ca/pavelb/index.html |
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Sorry Silicond,
I forgot about that part. Had to get back to work. 1. It acts as a stiffiner to keep the windscreens from folding in at those blazing speeds. 2. It's an installation point for the rear view mirror. Yup, there's two pieces to it. An inner and an outer. I'll get some pics of mine (installed) but I won't be able to post them til tomorrow evening C-Ya! |
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Ok, here we go. I thought it would take me forever just to remember how to resize pics, but I got it.
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New Member ![]()
Posts: 84
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:44 pm Location: Lutz, FL Willys Year: 1961 Willys Type: Wagon |
Thanks, that helps a ton to know what I'm looking for and how it goes together.
1986 Jeep CJ-7 (AMC 258 I6, T176, Dana 300, AMC20 rear, Dana 30 front)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon (L6-226, T-90, Dana 18, Dana 44 rear, Dana 25 front) |
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