cparisf
Sharpest Tool
Lol. I just wired the plug yesterday and tested it out today. So far so good. I'll let you know how well it works at zero degrees.....[emoji41]
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Willys 101 - 1961 Willys truck build in Michigan
- Thread starter cparisf
- Start date
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commando_willys
Sharpest Tool
Great job on your progress.:cheers: I've been moving along on my "new" frame as well.
cparisf
Sharpest Tool
Back to the "Quick filler block replacement" NOT!!
I'm finally back on the whole main seal, filler block, oil pan seal replacement nightmare. I'm ready to pull the front engine mount bracket, but I'm scratching my head over how to keep the harmonic balancer from rotating while trying to loosen the camshaft bolt. Any tricks? Something simple with pictures is usually best. Thanks for any suggestions.
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I'm finally back on the whole main seal, filler block, oil pan seal replacement nightmare. I'm ready to pull the front engine mount bracket, but I'm scratching my head over how to keep the harmonic balancer from rotating while trying to loosen the camshaft bolt. Any tricks? Something simple with pictures is usually best. Thanks for any suggestions.
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pavel6
Well Oiled
Chris,
If your crank pulley assembly (with harmonic balancer) is like the one on our wagon's Tornado engine, it should have twin "locking bolts" holding a bracket around the central big crank bolt. You can see the locking system in my picture. If you have that locking system, simply attach a bar, with holes, to those bolts so you can keep the crank from turning. I made a 'keeper' out of bed frame with tabs welded on.... works a treat. Be careful not to put any forces on the outer pulley as it is only held onto the inner flange with rubber. All the best.
Pavel.
If your crank pulley assembly (with harmonic balancer) is like the one on our wagon's Tornado engine, it should have twin "locking bolts" holding a bracket around the central big crank bolt. You can see the locking system in my picture. If you have that locking system, simply attach a bar, with holes, to those bolts so you can keep the crank from turning. I made a 'keeper' out of bed frame with tabs welded on.... works a treat. Be careful not to put any forces on the outer pulley as it is only held onto the inner flange with rubber. All the best.
Pavel.
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cparisf
Sharpest Tool
Pavel,
Thanks for your input, but my truck is a little different. There are 2 tapped holes on either side of the bolt head. I'm sure I can fab something up using those two holes, but I was hoping for someone's ingenious diy method for a quick fix. Thanks again for your suggestions.
Chris
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commando_willys
Sharpest Tool
Impact wrench. Requires nothing to hold the pulley. Unless you have no shop air.....
cparisf
Sharpest Tool
Not following you. The cam would still rotate without the pulley being held stationary?
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Dual48s
Sharpest Tool
Put in two chunks of all thread that are taller than the breaker bar you are using in those tapped holes, put a crow bar between them ontop of your socket/breaker bar to hold the pulley while you break the nut loose.
Inertia will keep the crankshaft from rotating while you remove the bolt... Or. just
put the trans in gear to keep the crankshaft from turning.............
***However, when replacing the bolt, do NOT use an impact... Put the trans in gear and then use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt.
Good practice is to clean out the threaded bore with a tap and blow it clean before replacing the bolt... Using an impact on a bolt going
into a dirty bore can result in stress and a broken crankshaft in the future.. Yes, I have seen this happen..
cparisf
Sharpest Tool
Good news!! After several failed attempts of holding the pulley, I finally found the right combination of "stuff' to hold it while I resorted to using the impact on it. I got the nut off and the timing cover off. Now what? Do I need to remove the pulley's and timing chain to get the engine mount bracket off? This is one whacked out sequence of events, just to put on a new oil pan seal. Ugh.....
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cparisf
Sharpest Tool
One step closer! Thanks for all the help, so far. I finally got to the engine support bracket and got it removed. Now to get the front filler block reinstalled, then the oil pan, then all new seals on the front of the engine...... we did also get the new gas tank fitted up!!
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cparisf
Sharpest Tool
I've been avoiding the re-install of the oil pan, front filler block, engine bracket, timing chain, etc.....you can see why. I moved to re-installing the drive shafts. As some of you have read, that was another eye opener. The u joints are unavailable, so now I am on the search for drive shafts that accept outside clips and a more standard u joint.
Anyway, I decided to tackle installing the overdrive, I picked up a while back in Colorado. Little did I realize (yet again) that there were several variants. The good news was the 29 teeth lined up. The bad news was, it is a forward shift versus a rear shift.
After some customization of the bracket and linkage, I got it installed and it seems to work, very well. I'm hoping the range of the new stick clears everything once the cab is put back on. I get some heat to the stick can fix anything like that. Lol.
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Anyway, I decided to tackle installing the overdrive, I picked up a while back in Colorado. Little did I realize (yet again) that there were several variants. The good news was the 29 teeth lined up. The bad news was, it is a forward shift versus a rear shift.
After some customization of the bracket and linkage, I got it installed and it seems to work, very well. I'm hoping the range of the new stick clears everything once the cab is put back on. I get some heat to the stick can fix anything like that. Lol.
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Hey Chris,
You've probably already seen this thread with information on installing the front filler block, but just in case...
http://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum...nd-Filler-Blocks&highlight=front+filler+block
You've probably already seen this thread with information on installing the front filler block, but just in case...
http://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum...nd-Filler-Blocks&highlight=front+filler+block
Last edited:
cparisf
Sharpest Tool
Thanks Joe. Yes, I've seen that post before and have read and re-read it probably a dozen times. I certainly, only want to change out those seals only once.
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Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Cparisf,I've been avoiding the re-install of the oil pan, front filler block, engine bracket, timing chain, etc.....you can see why. I moved to re-installing the drive shafts. As some of you have read, that was another eye opener. The u joints are unavailable, so now I am on the search for drive shafts that accept outside clips and a more standard u joint.
Anyway, I decided to tackle installing the overdrive, I picked up a while back in Colorado. Little did I realize (yet again) that there were several variants. The good news was the 29 teeth lined up. The bad news was, it is a forward shift versus a rear shift.
After some customization of the bracket and linkage, I got it installed and it seems to work, very well. I'm hoping the range of the new stick clears everything once the cab is put back on. I get some heat to the stick can fix anything like that. Lol.
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What tires are those? I need a good road tire for a 3K mile trip this summer. Thanks in advance.
Ben
commando_willys
Sharpest Tool
Nice job with the OD linkage.:cheers: Looks like a factory part. Fits tight and looks great.
cparisf
Sharpest Tool
Hey Ben! Sorry it took so long to get back to you. It's been a tad cold out in the workshop. The tires are co-op "multi carrier" 7.5 x 16LT. The story on these is they came off Consumers Energy wagons, that they used to haul utility poles around with. I think they were a pretty good buy for $35 a piece.
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Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
No worries. They sure look good!
cparisf
Sharpest Tool
I finally got a few boxes checked! I even learned a few more new skills. The filler blocks/seals, oil pan/seal, engine mounting bracket/seal, timing gears & chain, timing cover/seal all installed. Some twice!! My new skills are now learning to line up the timing marks and making sure the right number of links are between those marks and how to install heli-coils in pot ash filler blocks. Both essential skills.......Next on the list is replacing the infamous distributor mounting bracket with broken mounting ear and removing several broken studs on the intake and exhaust manifolds.
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