Speedo cable keeps breaking

vintagetrk

Well Oiled
Apr 28, 2018
1,121
NW Wyoming
First Name
nathan
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1958
I just replaced my old cable with 2 new. Each of the new kept breaking right at the speedo gear. Is there something when connecting the cable I need to do? The first cable felt too long, the second felt right went in with no problems.

I'm just wondering if the bind on the first cable might have damaged the gear?

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To clarify, is the cable breaking where it joins the hard piece that's inserted into the speedometer gear? Or is the hard piece itself breaking?

What is the history? Any recent changes to components at either end of the cable?
Did the speedometer and cable perform normally in recent history?
Was there a recent transfer case rebuild or some other change to the bearing retainer that houses the speedometer gear?
Can you easily turn the cable at the lower end?
 
To clarify, is the cable breaking where it joins the hard piece that's inserted into the speedometer gear? Or is the hard piece itself breaking?

What is the history? Any recent changes to components at either end of the cable?
Did the speedometer and cable perform normally in recent history?
Was there a recent transfer case rebuild or some other change to the bearing retainer that houses the speedometer gear?
Can you easily turn the cable at the lower end?
The cable binds at the speedo gear. I dropped the transmission & Transfercase a week ago to replace a front seal. I did forget to disconnect the old cable and stripped the insulation but caught the mistake before the trans. Hung from or broke the cable. The cable just was caught and stripped open.

The last cable went in easy I thought I had her whipped. Made it 300 yards and she gave up. I wonder if there is still a piece of cable inside the speedometer gear so the new cable isn't getting in far enough and binding?

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If memory serves, there is a spacer between the cable and the gear. It is to prevent the tube from locking against
the gear. Also Carter does have some great questions to ponder.
Paul
 
Humm didn't see any spacer. That could be my issue. I have just been threading directly on.

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Just for S&G's take out your speedo and lube the output bushing. THat could be binding a little.
just out of curiousity, was the cable made in a foreign SE Asia country?
Also the curve into the transfer case of the cable must be as wide as possible, to prevent over stressing. Not too sharpa bend so to speak.
diggerG
 
If you have put a new cable and sheathing on twice since the binding then I would say the speedo drive hub could be damaged.

If you take a broken bit of an old cable and put it in the speedo and turn it by hand can you get and movement of the needle? Turn it the way you want the needle to move. What about any turning at all?


On the back of your speedo in the drive is a piece that turns inside - at the knife point below:

aefe730a46cc1366e44ce42e665d028c.jpg


It should rotate same as you needle would turn - its a magnetic drive on most speedos to allow for reverse.

See if that piece turns freely - lightly oil it. I use 3 n 1 or turbine oil. Your secret sauce is up to you.

If that is ok then hard to say - if you are using the old sheathing with a new cable core get a whole new assembly.


Here is a photo from the manual of the transfer case end.

fab48e9d5ab9e739316987110b4612aa.jpg
 
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Just for S&G's take out your speedo and lube the output bushing. THat could be binding a little.
just out of curiousity, was the cable made in a foreign SE Asia country?
Also the curve into the transfer case of the cable must be as wide as possible, to prevent over stressing. Not too sharpa bend so to speak.
diggerG
Yes it was Asian mfg. The original was a rubber sleeve , steel cable. Looking at the last one , it's a plastic sleeve and if this is steel I'd be shocked. It looks like pot metal or aluminium.

Good point on the angle of attachment, I I'll make it a point on the next one to check. .

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If you have put a new cable and sheathing on twice since the binding then I would say the speedo drive hub could be damaged.

If you take a broken bit of an old cable and put it in the speedo and turn it by hand can you get and movement of the needle? Turn it the way you want the needle to move. What about any turning at all?


On the back of your speedo in the drive is a piece that turns inside - at the knife point below:

aefe730a46cc1366e44ce42e665d028c.jpg


It should rotate same as you needle would turn - its a magnetic drive on most speedos to allow for reverse.

See if that piece turns freely - lightly oil it. I use 3 n 1 or turbine oil. Your secret sauce is up to you.

If that is ok then hard to say - if you are using the old sheathing with a new cable core get a whole new assembly.


Here is a photo from the manual of the transfer case end.

fab48e9d5ab9e739316987110b4612aa.jpg
I'll try this out and let you know. The speedo flicked a couple times then the cable broke. So its binding somewhere. Only 2 ends so I'll get it figured out. I was using 2 new cables, just ordered the 3rd tonight. The 3rd cable looks more like the original with blk cable.

I wonder if I've got a slight bind and a couple cheap cables?

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The fact that the cable took enough weight to damage the sheath when the transmission was removed makes me wonder if something wasn't damaged at the speedometer end of the cable. That's the delicate part.

Next time you install a cable, leave the transmission end free and then try to spin the cable. With your fingers first. It should turn easily and make the speedometer move, especially if you spin it with a drill.
 
The fact that the cable took enough weight to damage the sheath when the transmission was removed makes me wonder if something wasn't damaged at the speedometer end of the cable. That's the delicate part.

Next time you install a cable, leave the transmission end free and then try to spin the cable. With your fingers first. It should turn easily and make the speedometer move, especially if you spin it with a drill.
Wont argue that point at all. Very well could have. When I get the new cable I'll go back thru the entire thread and troubleshoot on all suggestions.

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Well, took the speedo out tonight, finding it locked up. A little oil and it turns freely. I will clean the guage up and put back in. Thanks for the help!

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My speedo did the same thing...I had it rebuilt and a year later it started with wiggling at speed... I took it back to the speedo/clock shop and
they went threw it again... In the mean time I bought a non original replacement and installed... It has a trip meter...When the original was
done, I put it on the shelf...I really like the replacement better.
 

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My speedo did the same thing...I had it rebuilt and a year later it started with wiggling at speed... I took it back to the speedo/clock shop and
they went threw it again... In the mean time I bought a non original replacement and installed... It has a trip meter...When the original was
done, I put it on the shelf...I really like the replacement better.
I cleaned up the faces and ordered some needle paint. I hope it doesn't have any more issues.

I like your replacement, looks cool in that style of dash.

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Well, put the old speedo in.. truck would not start. At this point my dad and brother showed up. The old man was a maintenance superintendent in coal and gold mines for 30+ years and my brother works on C 130s navionics. So I turned the truck over to them. After a night in a 90 degree garage trying to twist and bend our way under the dash it was decided the best thing for the truck was a complete overhaul of the electrical.

Too many shorts and bad wire jobs kept causing sparks and smoke. If I wanted to keep the jeep flame free, well It has to be done.

I decided to just buy wire and connectors and D.I.Y it. Probably not the easy way but if ever there was a truck to learn on, this one would be it. He is bare minimal at most.

I plan on a wire by wire approach. Go easy and take one out , put one in. As everything was working but depending on the bump, not all the time.

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Just a suggestion here from an old truck mechanic...........Start at the rear and use big truck trailer cord.... like with 7 conductors....you can split it at
the rear axle to wire your tail/stop/license lights and you fuel tanks sender even back up light if you use one... The cord is relatively cheap
and you can run it inside the frame.. This will save you time and give you a good start on a color code.. Use plastic split loom in the
engine compartment over individual wires..
 
Just a suggestion here from an old truck mechanic...........Start at the rear and use big truck trailer cord.... like with 7 conductors....you can split it at
the rear axle to wire your tail/stop/license lights and you fuel tanks sender even back up light if you use one... The cord is relatively cheap
and you can run it inside the frame.. This will save you time and give you a good start on a color code.. Use plastic split loom in the
engine compartment over individual wires..
Thanks for the tip!

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Same thing happened to me, two cables broke at the speedo end. Third cable worked then the trip meter stopped working. Bought a new speedo from Kaiser, problem solved, but the background illumination is so incredibly dim even thought the lights are on and bright. Design fluke maybe??
 
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