Finally getting around to installing another 258

Blindmelon

Well Oiled
All-Star
Aug 10, 2014
3,103
Agua Dulce, CA
First Name
Larry
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1950
Hello, It's been 18 months since I finished rebuilding/balancing another 258.. I built it to replace
the well worn used engine I installed 5 or so years ago.. I'm also making new frame mounts.. The
current ones required shimming the motor mounts for correct engine alignment in the chassis.. I use
4" and 3" channel for the stubs and then tie them together with smaller channel after the engine is
installed to stiffen things up.. Also, take a look at my Bridgestone/Blizzack snow/ice tires.. They
now have over 25,000 miles on them and are wearing like iron...
 

Attachments

  • W engine, 2018 001.JPG
    W engine, 2018 001.JPG
    203.5 KB · Views: 71
  • W engine, 2018 008.JPG
    W engine, 2018 008.JPG
    155.4 KB · Views: 70
  • W engine, 2018 011.jpg
    W engine, 2018 011.jpg
    42.8 KB · Views: 67
  • W engine, 2018 015.JPG
    W engine, 2018 015.JPG
    192.1 KB · Views: 67
Larry: Thanks for posting. I've long been a fan of those motors and wish I had chosen to use one in mine. I had a good time with mine as it went along, unusual ( F-161 ) and so forth, but I really wish I had used the later Jeep/AMC motor instead. Watching intently.

Paul
 
Larry: Thanks for posting. I've long been a fan of those motors and wish I had chosen to use one in mine. I had a good time with mine as it went along, unusual ( F-161 ) and so forth, but I really wish I had used the later Jeep/AMC motor instead. Watching intently.

Paul

Thanks Paul, When I first installed the orange engine, it included a T5/5 speed and Dana 300 TC... I love the 5 speed
and the TC is silent.. I'll have the new engine (black) installed in a few more days.. I'm hoping for no more blow-by influenced
oil leaks.. Thanks for your comments... BTW, my 1st engine courtesy of the PO was a Rambler 195.5 OHV...Odd but fun.
 
Getting closer... I made new frame mounts. The engine now sits an inch higher at the front and leans to the left 2*... Better clearance
for the exhaust and front driveshaft... Ya never know, I just might have to take this on some rough trails..
 

Attachments

  • Willys Engine 2018 001.jpg
    Willys Engine 2018 001.jpg
    76.6 KB · Views: 44
  • Willys Engine 2018 002.jpg
    Willys Engine 2018 002.jpg
    71.4 KB · Views: 45
This is taking forever...One interruption after another.. In any case, the engine starts and runs.. I am removing some of the rubber matting from the floorboards and replacing it with Dynamat... Then I'll cover that with 3/8 thermal padding....Then the carpet... Besides replacing the engine and dialing in it's perfect location, I am working
to eliminate as much engine heat as possible... I added a ball valve in the heater hose circuit.. I wrapped 4 feet of exhaust head pipe..Plus, better firewall and floor
insulation..

And yes, after this thing is road tested and proven reliable....Road trip....
 

Attachments

  • Willys engine 2018 x 001.JPG
    Willys engine 2018 x 001.JPG
    191.7 KB · Views: 33
  • Willys engine 2018 x 002.JPG
    Willys engine 2018 x 002.JPG
    193.5 KB · Views: 36
  • Willys engine 2018 x 004.JPG
    Willys engine 2018 x 004.JPG
    233.4 KB · Views: 36
I'd love to do something like you're doing with the Dynamat, but I've been scared to install a non-breathable layer that might allow moisture to get trapped underneath. I've seen what happened under the stock rubber mats. What is your thinking on this? Is my fear misplaced?
 
I'd love to do something like you're doing with the Dynamat, but I've been scared to install a non-breathable layer that might allow moisture to get trapped underneath. I've seen what happened under the stock rubber mats. What is your thinking on this? Is my fear misplaced?

OK, regarding moisture trapped between Dynamat and the floor.........Unless you prep and paint and then leave the floor bare.....Any water will tend
to collect on the floor..... I just cleaned the metal and treated it with vinegar. After the vinegar dried, I put down the Dyna mat...The tar backing should
exclude any new moisture.. Also, I spent a bit of time repairing water leaks into the cab years ago...Every time I washed the truck, the floor was wet.
After a number of repairs........The floors stay dry.....***ALSO, I live in a dry climate...High Desert...Things tend to dry out quickly..

I've used vinegar before to kill rust.... It works...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So today I discovered the block is cracked and the valves are tight... So much for sending this work out.
A water leak and popping in the intake because the valves' installed height is too high. And I had an reputable
engine builder do the work because I was so busy at the time.............

Looks like I have a bit of unexpected engine work ahead..............Yuck!

** I paid the rebuilder to themal clean, blast, mag test and inspect the block.
I also had them bore and deck the block...AND overhaul the cylinder head
bronze guide inserts, new valves....

Apparently, The rebuilder forgot that decking the block an milling the head
changes the valve train length.. This must be addressed... The valve train
length on a 258 is fixed.........
 

Attachments

  • Crack 004.jpg
    Crack 004.jpg
    77.6 KB · Views: 30
Last edited:
Whether they do the work or I do...........The crack will be drilled and plugged, just like I learned to do 50 years ago.
The rocker arm stands will be shimmed to allow the valves to properly seat..

As Rosanne Rosanadana used to say "well Jane, it's always somethin' "..........
 
Larry: Sorry to hear that. I got a head back a few years ago that had been "mag'd" that I discovered had a crack in it after I got it installed. Seems like folks just refuse to do what you pay them for. in my case, I didn't ask them to do anything else, just clean it and magnaflux the damned thing.

Sorry to hear about the setback and good luck with the repairs.

Paul
 
I looked in my washer selection and found a metric wave washer just fits on the rocker bolts and I used 12 of them to shim
my rocker arm stands...The washers are .032" thick... This will increase valve train clearance by .064"....After this I started
the engine........No more popping in the intake... Engine started immediately and idled strong and steady...Smooth..

This afternoon I picked up a plugging kit to fix the crack in the block... The machine shop is paying for all needed parts..

I haven't pinned a block in 50 years..........Glad I still remember.........
 
I drilled and pinned the block yesterday....Fingers crossed, no more leaks... If the repair is good, I'll finish grinding the area
smooth and touchup the block paint..
 

Attachments

  • Willys cracked block repair 003.jpg
    Willys cracked block repair 003.jpg
    73.4 KB · Views: 33
  • Willys cracked block repair 001.jpg
    Willys cracked block repair 001.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 30
Last edited:
I put the radiator back along with the manifolds and started it up... No, leaks after 1/2 hour of fast idling...I had to break in the
new cam and lifters... Yay.. I can finally put the front sheet metal back on and finish the Dynamat job inside...
I'm so grateful to be done with this chore.. The crack repair method still works.. I never imagined I'd ever
have to stitch up a cracked block...Glad I remember the procedure..........
 
I have seen it. I have not seen the process of it being done. Nice Job.
 
Back
Top