Difficulty Shifting

Gopher8

Knuckle Buster
Apr 12, 2018
3
Saint Paul, MN
First Name
Nat
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1949
Hello All, I wonder if anyone might be able to help with a tranny issue I've been having.

Last summer I started having a hard time shifting into third gear. It is only hard after the T-90 warms up. It doesn't grind. It just doesn't want to go. I rebuilt the tranny three years ago and it ran fine after. Now, not so much. I can hear the throughout bearing vibrating a bit so I know it needs replacing. It shifts fine if I double clutch. I tried adjusting the clutch release cable to no avail. The shift forks don't look worn. I'm not sure what to check next.

I pulled the tranny and t-case and I'm ready to get after it. The rig is a '49 cj3a. the drive train is mostly stock. It does have a Warn overdrive.

Any thoughts?
 
For starters Nat I bet it isn't the throw out bearing depending on WHEN it rattles. More likely it's the front bearing. And i think your problem may be clutch linkage. If it was your synchro then it would grind,
diggerG
 
David,
Thanks for the link. I used the same guide when I rebuilt the tranny a few years ago. Yesterday I printed a copy to keep in the garage.

Greg,
When I release the clutch it makes a winding noise like a lawnmower with a bad recoil bearing. It sounds as if the bearing continues to spin (still engaged) after the clutch is released. I have pulled the throw out bearing and it is worn. You're right about the synchros causing grinding. With a complete rebuild a couple thousand miles ago I'd be surprised if the front bearing is bad. I suppose I could pull the bearing and check it easy enough.

If it's a clutch or a linkage issue wouldn't it affect shifting into all gears not just third? Anyone know of a good linkage adjustment tutorial?

I'm going to replace the throw out bearing and check the front bearing. I'll put it all back together and adjust the linkage as well as I can.

Thanks for the help.
 
Maybe your synchro blocking rings are jammed up on 3rd only. Check that. and you may have a defective new front bearing.
diggerG
 
What oil did you put in it? Some of the modern lubes are known to damage brass syncros
 
After rebuilding the tranny, I think the issue was the sliding clutch not moving smoothly over the synchro hub. The synchro hub felt a little rough when I removed it.

The synchro blocking rings were fine. If they were binding there would have been grinding.

I replaced the synchro hub assembly along with everything else that should be replaced for a rebuild. All is well.

pav1 I use a non-hypoid tranny fluid from Lucas Oil. Can't remember the name of the stuff right off.
 
t
Try changing fluid. Doesn't cost much and doesn't take long.I had an Ford truck that got hard to shift,and was ready to rebuild ,changed the fluid and drove itfor a few more years.
 
I have to ask this fairly obvious question.
When you rebuilt the transmission did you replace the old T.O. bearing, most of us do this automatically. If you did replace the T.O. bearing, why is it warn out already? A new bearing should last for many years. That is if it is installed and adjusted correctly. An incorrectly adjusted bearing can ride the clutch, A T.O. bearing is NOT made to run continuously, life will be a few thousand miles only. Which leads me to this. If you took on rebuilding your transmission yourself you likely know your way around a tool box. How was your clutch linkage? Badly warn clutch linkage can be almost impossible to adjust properly, I.E. without some drag on the clutch. An old Jeep mechanic here in Tucson adjusts his clutch more or less by feel, not clutch pedal feel. He starts the jeep and puts his hand on the linkage, it is easy to feel when the T.O. bearing is touching the clutch. He adjusts the linkage until the T.O. bearing just touches the clutch, then backs it off until it no longer touches +a turn on the adjustment nut. Then drive to see how the clutch feels and operates. ....... On excessively warn linkage I like to use Heim joints on the pivot points. A clutch with Heim joint bearing points is incredibly smooth and accurate.
 
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