Electronic distributor failure

You should be able to get a internally resisted coil from Napa.... I know I have them here... 6 volt no external resistor is a Standard Motor Parts #UC14T (will need them to interchange). 12v No external resistor is a #UC15T (again interchange).

I was thinking that if someone that has used the pertronix coil had a model # from a receipt.....I keep all my receipts,kinda fanatical I suppose!
I think I have an accel yellow coil from a previous sbc build laying around somewhere....the ohm rating thing kinda goes over my head though. I always thought a 12v coil was a 12v coil....would like the pertronix version that is proven with my stock dizzy in my L6-226.

Igniter I
12V 4+6 cyl 3ohms
Chrome 40501
Black 40511
Black Epoxy 40611

Igniter I
6V 4+6 cyl 1.5ohms
Chrome 40001
Black 40011
Black Epoxy 40111

Igniter II
12V 0.6ohms
Chrome 45001
Black 45011
Black Epoxy 45111

Thanks Austin!

buxman66 said:

Thanks Austin!

Click to expand...

You're welcome Thad!

I work at my parts store every other weekend during the school year, during the winter I spend a lot of my time searching Willys parts since its slow. Ever need a part number or interchange hit me up.

Dual48s said:

Igniter I
12V 4+6 cyl 3ohms
Chrome 40501
Black 40511
Black Epoxy 40611

Click to expand...

Hmmm. I have been running the 40611 coil plus an external resistor for 20+ years ever since Pertronix did the points conversion for me. I just bought a spare last week. Pertronix knew I had the resistor at the time. I wonder if the resistor is necessary or I should use a different coil.

I went back thru Pete's build and I found the same information Austin had posted,...I'm gonna order a #40511 coil. This is internally resisted also.

Honesty don't know enough details about these systems but if the ignition modules have internal diode protection in theory should suppress voltage transients.

This is an good overview of mechanical and electronic intuitions and you can see the diode I'm talking about in the schematic. Maybe someone needs to open a module up or quizz the makers of these units to see how robust the guts are.

http://newautoaa.blogspot.com/p/primary-circuit-of-ignition-system.html?m=1

For good wiring practice and hygiene I highly recommend using solder and adhesive shrink tubing. It's more work/cost but the results are worth it.

Also no mention of wiring using twisted pairs and staying away from starter cables.

"Twisted pair cabling is a type of wiring in which two conductors of a single circuit are twisted together for the purposes of canceling out electromagnetic interference (EMI) from external sources; for instance, electromagnetic radiation from unshielded twisted pair (UTP) cables, and crosstalk between neighboring pairs.

This company has a great write up on this. Or just search for it on goog

http://www.weaponxperformance.com/main/index.html

The pdf file is called RFI_EMI_EMC_REDUCTION_MAUNUAL

Electrical Grease is NOT the same as dielectric grease. I use this whenever I get the chance to clean up connections or have a project that requires it. It's available on Amazon or from the ford dealer and should be in your tool box.

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrica...sp?product=Electrical+Grease&category=Greases

To get solder to flow under under the wire insulation use this

https://www.jameco.com/z/10-4202-GC-Electronics-Liquid-Solder-Flux-2-Fl-Oz-Bottle_615224.html

So,if using a stock condenser,points,...etc.should a 1.5 ohm or a 3 ohm version be used? Coil # 40511 is a 3 ohm.