1955 Bermuda Hardtop

Former OWF Member

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After using a three-legged puller, and hammering on the rear drums, they finally came off. I never want to go through that again, so I found a Ford Maverick rear end, and will be going to get that for an eventual install! I am also interested in installing the AMC type front spindles, and converting to discs, and lowering the car for that '50's custom look.20171126_122431.jpg I want to be able to
drive the car and maintain it, without searching for months to find parts.

After getting under this car, I have also noticed it has holes in the rockers,, rear frame (by the bumper brackets and leaf spring mount areas), in the frame rails behind the front tires, and the body door gaps change when you jack it up from one end or the other! i am sure this is due to the floor and frame holes. The only part that can be easily patched and is soild, is the trunk floor. This makes me question if I shouldn't go Gasser, straight front axle, or gut the floors, and do the Pro Street new frame, V-8, etc. route? Lol. I don't have all of the Bermuda only items to do a restoration either (missing the "Bermuda" emblems, rear trunk large medallion like the overpriced one on eBay, and the Bermuda only headlight trim rings).
 
After using a three-legged puller, and hammering on the rear drums, they finally came off. I never want to go through that again, so I found a Ford Maverick rear end, and will be going to get that for an eventual install! I am also interested in installing the AMC type front spindles, and converting to discs, and lowering the car for that '50's custom look.View attachment 42154 I want to be able to
drive the car and maintain it, without searching for months to find parts.

After getting under this car, I have also noticed it has holes in the rockers,, rear frame (by the bumper brackets and leaf spring mount areas), in the frame rails behind the front tires, and the body door gaps change when you jack it up from one end or the other! i am sure this is due to the floor and frame holes. The only part that can be easily patched and is soild, is the trunk floor. This makes me question if I shouldn't go Gasser, straight front axle, or gut the floors, and do the Pro Street new frame, V-8, etc. route? Lol. I don't have all of the Bermuda only items to do a restoration either (missing the "Bermuda" emblems, rear trunk large medallion like the overpriced one on eBay, and the Bermuda only headlight trim rings).

Great project! I'm a sucker for originality so my vote would be try and repair what is needed and drive it. I've never seen an Aero in person but a colleague of mine supposedly has one I've been trying to snag for a few years... What motor is in it?
 
It has the 226 Super Hurricane 6 with a 2 speed auto. I still think it would be cool to keep that, and add the Kaiser supercharger setup! Parts for this car are VERY hard to find and expensive. I have enough trim parts, etc. for a mild custom, but not a restoration.
 
The super chargers are still out there and accessible iirc. A mild custom is fine, as my signature says, a little character makes a lot of personality.
 
Probably the number of original Aero Bermuda Willys existing can be counted on your fingers and toes. My hope is you will get it to driver quality, enjoy all the looks you'll get, and make it better as you go. We had a nicely restored '55 Bermuda shown at Stowe, VT. in August, watched it go for AACA honors at Hershey in Oct. , and then it was invited to the Annual AACA National Awards Ceremony at Philly this Feb. This is by invitation only for the best of the best. Wish I knew how to post a pix because I have several. This car is a Knockout!!
 
Thanks for your reply. Since I am missing some key Bermuda only parts, I plan on a mild custom, but still using all the parts I do have, to keep it's identity! It will go way above driver quality, with all the rust fixed with new metal, and a nice paint job.
 
1955 Bermuda Pix

I may have figured out how to get pix on here. The Red & White Bermuda was taken at Stowe, VT August 2017. The Green and White was at Hershey Oct. 2016.
 

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Would like to get better pictures of these Bermudas. Do you have any pictures with more bytes or know where I can download pictures for printing?
Lee Noga
 
Desperately need to correspond to another Bermuda owner. I am trying to get one of mine running so I can sell it. I have to ask a most stupid question. I can't even figure out where the battery was kept. I don't see any battery holder under the hood nor under the front seat etc. If you get this message would sure like to hear from you.
Lee Noga (509)967-2723

Still have not rec'd even one reply to my message. Surely there is another Bermuda owner out there that will help another Bermuda owner out. Need a good picture of the battery mount so that I can make one or whatever.
Lee
 
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hello, in answer to your door gaps widening, it is probably do to a combination of the inner frame rails and the rocker panel rust, ive seen an aero with no rockers to speak of but good frame that opened and closed as it should, strengthen the frame rails first and keep the integrity of the door gaps before doing any rocker repairs, this design was one of the best early unibodies produced, a very strong combination for long-life, but rust will kill its strength, i will look and see if i still have the trunk lid emblem, i would sell it for cheap, its not perfect, but very useable for the project you are doing, thanks, doug 740-285-2298
 
looks like the only 55 specific item i have is a trunk emblem overlay that surrounds the lock assy., it does not have the lock in it, it is in very nice replateable shape with some pitting, but no edge deterioration , would be great for an original patina look, not the shiniest surface chrome, but still would polish nicely, would sell for $60, that includes the shipping, doug 740-285-2298
 
Weatherstripping

I have sourced repro front and rear glass rubber seals, and have been told the repro International truck seals work on the doors, but does anyone know what works for the hardtop side glass seals? I still need the one in the roof channel, wing window seals, and the vertical quarter window seals. I also need a trunk seal.
 
I have sourced repro front and rear glass rubber seals, and have been told the repro International truck seals work on the doors, but does anyone know what works for the hardtop side glass seals? I still need the one in the roof channel, wing window seals, and the vertical quarter window seals. I also need a trunk seal.
I got catalogs and free samples from Steele & Sof-Seal for 2DR doors and trunk, nothing close but didn't look close at universal profiles. Restoration Specialties said they used to have it but were out. Ended up buying those off mercodolivre for the '60 model Aero, same as '55 here. I think it was Steele that had the hood to cowl rubber. Hardtop upper door rubber seems to be a problem for the Eagle/Bermuda guys.
 
Very nice car! I wish I had found mine with all the parts for a restoration. Unfortunately the trim pieces are almost impossible to find, and super expensive when you do!
 
UPDATE: I just pulled the engine and trans, and listed it for sale in the classifieds here, and other places on the net. Many of you will be happy to know, I have decided against turning the car into a gasser type racer. I will still install a SBC though, and lower it a bit, with wide white walls, and some mild custom touches to the body. I just couldn't bring myself to cut out the rear wheel wells! I would like to install a Mustang II front suspension, and the S-10 rear end I have. Custom body touches will include: frenched headlights, custom tail lights (maybe), chrome exterior push door latch buttons, to replace the originals (like the 40's Mercury models), and a Ford gas tank (whatever size fits, and takes the place of the trunk floor (like the '60's Mustang). I will have a bunch of original parts if anyone needs them.
 
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