Opinions wanted please

WorkinProgress

Precision Fit
Jan 9, 2017
597
Kennewick, Washington
First Name
Scott
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1963
So I have the entire body off my 63 willys truck with 230 tornado and t90 and It was last registered in 1992 and I'd say that's about how long it's sat before I got it. Transmission leaks several places and I haven't driven it more than to the end of the street so far couple hundred feet and it (didn't run when I bought it)

Since the body is completely off some repairs are easier done now so I'd like opinions on what I should take care of now. I ordered a Dana 18 gasket kit USA made with double lip seals and I'd also like to replace input shaft seal since every jeep that hasn't been reseal ed recently seems to leak like crazy especially at front input seal. I hear horror story's of how difficult it is to remove bellhousing from motor. So is it OK or advisable to remove tranny leaving the bellhosuing on the motor To replace input shaft seal?

Honestly I'd like to probably do a new clutch and resurface flywheel since I have no idea the condition or age of them after sitting so long(is a clutch even available for this truck?) but removing the bellhop sing sounds like a bear.

Opinions wanted please...
 
Hey Scott...My truck has the same trans leaking issues you describe...what a pain. So I'm sitting here day dreaming about what I would do if I had my truck down to the bare frame and the answer is EVERYTHING. From bumper to bumper absolutely everything to minimize the amount of time spent working under the truck in the future. Even stuff that looks OK for now like rear cab mount perches, things that are difficult to replace from the underside once the truck is assembled. Other nasty buggers like the master cylinder and brake light pressure switch would be a piece of cake working from the top.
 
Scott
You can do the clutch with the bellhousing on. And the tranny also. No worries there. flywheels are tough to get off but is possible.
diggerG
 
I'm kinda confused... If you meant to say you want to replace the transmission input shaft seal...........I've never seen one used..
 
Hi Scott, I just finished rebuilding my transmission and transfer case. It's very straightforward and rewarding. There are great threads here, especially Pete's, that will help. I highly recommend Rick Stiver's rebuild videos on YouTube. I left the bellhousing in place when I dropped the trans/tc. I used the Willys maintenance manual, PDF on Old Willys forum, to remove them. Good luck!
 
I have rebuilt the t90 in my 48 cj2a with great success and I have re sealed the t90 in my 59 cj5. So I'm not afraid of the tray I'm just afraid of how hard I hear it is to remove from a 230 or 226. But like my other two jeeps I'd like this Trans to be leak free as well
 
So far on this truck I have replaced the floors on both sides. The cowl on both sides. The inner cowl on both sides. Half of the under seat toolbox on both sides and the body mount metal brackets on 3 of the 4 corners which it seemed no one makes so I had to fabricate. New brakes, lines master cylinder. Wheel cylinders. New wheel bearings on all 4 wheels. New spark plugs. Rebuilt original dual action fuel pump. Rebuilt original holly carburetor.
 
I'm kinda confused... If you meant to say you want to replace the transmission input shaft seal...........I've never seen one used..

Actually Larry you are correct. That T90 has no seal. I wasn't thinking. However, the retainer could be loose, and the trans housing could leak in front. Or also it could be motor oil leaking. Or the top cover gasket.
diggerG
 
Yes there should be a front input shaft seal. Well it's not really a seal seal but there should be a thick felt washer that keeps the oil in and dust out. it needs to be soaked in gear oil before install or it will rip when started. and the gasket that seals the bearing retainer also.

My cj2a would just pour out the input until I replaced this felt seal now it doesn't leak a drop. I also had a m38a1 before that when I got it, would leak out front seal so I went to replace this felt and only the rubber inner disc of this felt remained indicating that there had been one but it was worn out.
 
While most replies to your post have centered around your transmission leaks, in the first sentence of the second paragraph you asked about jobs to be done while the body is off the frame. Something you might consider is looking at the spring packs while you have good access. The front end is very stiff on these trucks and some people remove two leafs from the spring pack to soften it up. There are several discussions on this forum if you have any interest in doing this.
 
Also consider checking and rebushing the pedals as it’s a bear once the body is on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
While most replies to your post have centered around your transmission leaks, in the first sentence of the second paragraph you asked about jobs to be done while the body is off the frame. Something you might consider is looking at the spring packs while you have good access. The front end is very stiff on these trucks and some people remove two leafs from the spring pack to soften it up. There are several discussions on this forum if you have any interest in doing this.

Thanks that would be a great idea. I dont think i will remove any sine this truck has a snow plow and a winch but now would be a great time to check condition or for sagging
 
Scott,

I replaced the clutch pressure plate and disc with a new pair in our 230 engine wagon and have had trouble ever since. In the spirit of full disclosure, I also replaced the bell housing cross shaft that holds the throw-out bearing assembly. For some reason, there wasn't enough leverage movement to fully release the disc. I have solved the problem by fitting a Wilwood hydraulic clutch system but the pedal is very very heavy (100 lbs). I think the problem stems from the new clutch parts - perhaps the springs are heavier and the level-arms a different design... but I really do not know what the problem is. If you buy replacement parts, make sure they are the same design and strength BEFORE you install.

Pavel
 
Scott
You never took apart a 6 cyl 226 or 230 T90 trans, did you? You are assuming that they are the same as a 4 cyl. There is a grooved front bearing retainer that funnels oil bact towards the drain hole in the case. Larry is absolutely correct, I just forgot that bit of information at first, and when he posted in I remembered.
diggerG (Greg)
Yes there should be a front input shaft seal. Well it's not really a seal seal but there should be a thick felt washer that keeps the oil in and dust out. it needs to be soaked in gear oil before install or it will rip when started. and the gasket that seals the bearing retainer also.

My cj2a would just pour out the input until I replaced this felt seal now it doesn't leak a drop. I also had a m38a1 before that when I got it, would leak out front seal so I went to replace this felt and only the rubber inner disc of this felt remained indicating that there had been one but it was worn out.
 
Novak t90 kits include a sealed front bearing and rubber plugs for the shaft and case drain hole. Their attempt to stop leaks in that area.
 
So upon taking your advice in realizing yes it was a great idea even though I didn't really wanna do the extra hassle since it seems difficult to remove the bellhousing I went ahead and removed the transmission transfer case the throw out bearing the clutch all from the truck already I'm attempting to remove the fly wheel but it seems like the bell housing has to come off 1st so I probably need to lay on my back under the truck and see if I can see the other inside bolt's I was able to remove the clutch without removing the bellhousing fairly easy but I'm gonna Google search real quick and see if it says online but I'm assuming the flywheel has to have the bellhousing off 1st
 
The old clutch is marked Made in USA and I believe there's a part number on it the clutch material looks like there's a decent amount left All the clutch Springs seemed to be pretty rusty but not terrible just what you'd expect from his likely the original 60 year old clutch And the throw out bearing with it Held in your hand it makes a very loud ratcheting type noise from the Bering as you spin it so minimum that's great thing that means replaced that I would have kicked myself later having not had done it yet it's a very weird design I haven't seen before looks kinda cool
 
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