HEI Distributor No Spark Issue

W. Hall

Precision Fit
Nov 24, 2014
511
State College, PA
First Name
William
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1962
I've been all over the internet researching this and have not really come up with any good ideas. It's not even the original Willys wagon engine so I feel kinda bad for posting here but I am at a loss.

My 62 Wagon is running a Chevy 230 inline 6 and it ran top notch after installing a new wiring harness, progressive Weber 2 barrel, Pertronix HEI Billet distributor, and Flame-Thrower 1.5 Ohm canister coil. Drove all summer last year and most of the winter with no problems at all :cool:. Then one 15 degree December day, it would crank over but not start. I assumed it was the carb and removed the filter, sprayed it out and it fired right up (probably coincidence). I ran it for a few weeks until one morning it started this again. Assuming it was the carb, I did the same thing but this time it cranked over but still wouldn't start. Let it go till the next morning and it fired right up :confused:. Drove to the store and back, also got gas and ran an errand or two, then it stalled at a stop sign and absolutely would not start again. Figured it was the carb so I tore the top end off, sprayed it out, and it still would crank over but not start. The next morning it fired right up :mad:. Took it straight home and had to park it for a while.

Up to date: So I went on military orders for a few months and came home last week. Fired it up and drove around the block a few times and let it idle for a while to charge the battery. An hour later I went out to start it and it cranked over and would NOT start again. This time I discovered that I have no power going to the spark plugs (using an inline spark tester). I removed the tach wire and it made no difference. I've confirmed there is 12V at the positive side of the coil. The HEI distributor only has a red and black wire coming off the coil, and the center plug from the top of the coil. Figured the coil was shorting so I replaced the coil with a new one and no change. Not sure where to go from here. Pertronix sent me an e-mail with a few more tests but I need my other half to turn it over while I check ohms and voltage.


One last note: the starter has been acting up since last winter, in very cold weather, it will spin but not engage until the third or fourth try. Hasn't done this since the winter but I can tell that it sounds different now. Not grinding but a very slight "whining" sound when cranking. I plan to replace it in the next few days anyway, but I still need to resolve this no spark issue. I read where a failing starter solenoid could effect an HEI dizzy but I have not been able to find anything to further support this. Until I can perform some of the other voltage checks, any additional advice or help on this would be greatly appreciated.
 
Some wiring systems route a 12V wire from the solenoid to the coil. This is only hot while the starter is engaged. It allows a full 12 V to the coil for starting. This also may be done because of an ignition switch that doesn't provide 12V to the coil while the key is in the crank position. I HATE intermittent problems like yours. The good news is that you should be able to figure it out, since you have a rather protracted period of "no start" in which to trouble shoot. Make sure you have 12V while cranking. Good luck!
 
Thanks SeaBee, my memory is not the greatest since I wired the wagon several years ago now. I cant remember if there is a wire directly from the solenoid to the coil, or if it comes off the ignition switch. Come to think of it, is it possible that the ignition switch may actually be faulty...:confused:

At least there is lots of room to work in and inspect things. :)
 
I had similar issues with a Pertronix system on my truck with a Chevy 250. If you run jumper leads directly to the coil and Dizzy it should run. I use alligator clips so I can pull them off to shut the engine down. If it still won't run look at the ignition module in the Dizzy. I have had several problems the Pertronix units and have read about others here on the forum.

Some systems have full 12 volt power to the coil, some have a resistor. It's un common, but the resistors fail.

Just a few things to check.

Hope you get it sorted out. Intermittent issues are the worst.

Duane

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
I apologize if you covered this already, but check to make sure you have a solid ground.
 
So what's your battery voltage. Or better yet whats the voltage when your cranking the starter. If you dropping below 11.50 volts DC you may have smoked the controller within the the HEI. Or not enough volts to make spark. 32 years of this stuff and I have seen lots of low voltage issues. Good luck. Joe
 
I had a similar problem. Thought it was because I just power washed the engine and the distiributor was still wet (which it was, initially)l. I dried it off and then drove home without issues. It ran great great and then it died on me 2 blocks from home. Waited an hour or so, and it started right up. Got it home, then it wouldn't start again. Started the next morning but died. Turned out the keyed-ignition/Power to the coil was loose from pressuring washing. It was just barely making intermitent contact.
 
Many thanks to all who replied! :)
Just an update: I was told to look at the ohms around the coil and dizzy (specifically the ignitor II module inside) but my new auto multi meter won't read that LOW...go figure. The guy at Pertronix said the module should read something really low but I was unable to accomplish that task. :mad: Also, I replaced the ignition switch because it was pretty old anyways. Made no difference. There is a wire going from the switch straight to the coil. I pulled the starter because it needed replaced and I ran out of time to get the new one on. So I'm in limbo until I get time to put the new starter in, double check my ground, and run the jumper leads as Duane suggested.

On a side note, I ordered and received a new HEI dizzy from Summit in case all else fails. This way I'll have a direct replacement in case I can't get the Pertronix to work.
 
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Had the same problem once on the trail with my HEI in a modified Buick V6 in my CJ5. Replaced the rotor and was off like a dirty shirt. No visible damage at all but the spark was obviously running through the center of the rotor and grounding on the distributor shaft. HEI is High Energy, so blasting through a cheap plastic off-brand rotor isn't that hard to do. Easy and cheap enough to check.
 
UPDATE: Installed the new three bolt starter, wired a new ignition switch, swapped the old distributor and removed the canister coil from the engine, installed the new Summit HEI, hooked the battery back up and took a deep breath before I turned the key....The engine fired up in less than half a turn! No starter issues (did not come with shims and apparently didn't need any). At first it was off a little so I rechecked my plug wires and noticed I had two and four switched. After that little mess-up it fired right up again, noticeably faster than before, and purrs like a kitten. Incredibly smooth with good acceleration. Keeping my fingers crossed that it wasn't the carburetor getting clogged up after all. It's GREAT to have it running again, especially with winter around the corner. Now on to the front brake issue.......

On a side note, the Weber two barrel's air filter sits on a cheap chrome covered piece of metal (that bolts to the top of the barb) that is rusting where the filter seats. What can I do with this because small chunks of rust ARE getting sucked into the carb. Even though I try to keep after it, the rust is a really fast process in my region. I was going to simply scuff and paint it with rust reformer, but I don't want it to rust under the paint and have peeling chunks of paint AND rust getting sucked into the carb. I tried putting a coat of wax on it to keep the moisture out but it is still rusting. Such a small problem but frustrating none the less.
 
Glad you were able to track down the issue and it's running good. Por-15 is an extremely tough coating used on chassis components,they also have a silver coating that is just as tough. I would sandblast the base and coat it in it. It WONT flake off,and will not introduce moisture either.
 
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