1952 Willys Aero Wing

Thanks!

Brake lines and fuel lines all done.
Master cylinder installed and blead the brakes.
We actually drove it down the road yesterday! Yea it was slightly scary.. The 50 year old tires never get round and we have some other unnerving vibrations going on. It could be the driveshaft that spins line a banana. I adjusted the brakes and we need to bleed them again as well. I will also probably throw some more steel at it here and there underneath as well.

IMG_4514 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
IMG_4515 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
IMG_4518 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
IMG_4517 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

I scored a bumper fro my Jeep Pickup last week end. Amazing what a can of oven cleaner from the Dollar Store will do to clean up surface rust. Some guys use steel wool but, I never liked that idea.
IMG_4519 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
 
Got the new tires put on last night. Took her down the road and back to try them out. They made big difference in the vibrations but still need to get a new drive shaft made. Mine has a nice bow to it.
I have done a little work on the skirts to make them fit a little better too. I am trying to get all the mechanical stuff rehabilitated before I get in to the electrical. Bodywork and paint will be last. Totally backwards to how I usually restore a car but, I don't call this a restoration by any stretch. I just want it driveable and somewhat presentable in the end.
Wing1 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
Wing2 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
 
Here is my lowering block kit.. I couldn't find anything that would work with a 2" wide leaf spring so I made my own blocks. I took a 4" length of 2" x 3" rectangular tubing and cut it length wise. Then I trimmed them down to 1 1/4" high and welded plates to the openings. Now I have to drill the center locating holes. One side will be a open hole and the other will have a machine screw in it. I found some U-bolts that were close enough. All I have to do is squeze the legs together a little bit to match up with the original ones. Fun stuff!
IMG_4630 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
 
New member. Looking to learn. Enjoyed the read. I have 3 of these now, to make at least one good one. One rust free body. One good F head with 36K miles, another not so good with 90K, all with 3 spd ODs. I have at least 3 drive shafts.

I am seeing they, the F head 161 F head, will likely overheat and drop valves with modern gas. Use hardened Valve seats,? Al, radiators, what is the fix?? Use a small block chevy as per 56 Hot Rod mag??

I may sale some extra parts but I need to figure out how to get one of these drivable. I plan on weekend and summer driver and need at least 70 mph in WY. Ortherwise one may die. They move in WY, where I plan on using it.

Looks like 205/75r15s should work fine from the old tires on it,

I hope for a little bit more in/carbs, and a little more out/headers and exhaust to get maybe 100 HP.

All help is much appreciated.

Any suggestions. I am not new to classic cars, own 5 and have had 30ish.
 
Thanks for responding! Please shoot me a price on a drive shaft.
I have been adding lead additive to the gas and zinc additive to the oil to help the engine out. It runs so well now that I am not going to go through it.
I am with you on needing to be able to drive at least a 70mph constant speed but it will be tough with that 4.56 gear. I would like to find something like a 3.55. Even the non-over drive 4.10 would be better.
 
New member. Looking to learn. Enjoyed the read. I have 3 of these now, to make at least one good one. One rust free body. One good F head with 36K miles, another not so good with 90K, all with 3 spd ODs. I have at least 3 drive shafts.

I am seeing they, the F head 161 F head, will likely overheat and drop valves with modern gas. Use hardened Valve seats,? Al, radiators, what is the fix?? Use a small block chevy as per 56 Hot Rod mag??

I may sale some extra parts but I need to figure out how to get one of these drivable. I plan on weekend and summer driver and need at least 70 mph in WY. Ortherwise one may die. They move in WY, where I plan on using it.

Looks like 205/75r15s should work fine from the old tires on it,

I hope for a little bit more in/carbs, and a little more out/headers and exhaust to get maybe 100 HP.

All help is much appreciated.

Any suggestions. I am not new to classic cars, own 5 and have had 30ish.

Hadn't heard about valve issues but hardened seats is what I did.
Running 205's might rub on your front springs.
70 shouldn't be a problem if you're in OD
Original radiators are cellular core, no way to rod them out. I had my tanks soldered onto a new 3 row core, 2 rows would've been enough but it took a 3 row to match the tanks.
 
Thanks Mark and HC.

Maybe higher than factory profile rear tires could effectively get the gear ratio up, if they will clear.

Seems like hardened valve seats are needed.

My research showed both of my engines are 75HP F heads, all with overdrive, not the 90hp I was told. I will be back in Wy in a month and get a better look at the pile of parts I have. Maybe I should look for a good running 222 ci if they are a drop in? Anybody using tube headers and how hard are the two one barrel intackes to find?

I typically prefer original but this one may end up with a Chevy small block or a GM V6, plus a mustang front suspension($1250 rebuild on ebay with disc brakes).

Thanks again.
 
The F head (intake in the head, exhaust in the block) engines were the 90 hp, and the L heads (flathead) were 75. When Kaiser used the L161 in the Henry J they rated it at 80, but they may have bumped the compression some, not sure on that. The 226 is a completely different engine, but Kaiser did use that engine after they bought out Willys in 53(?). Don't know what they changed or how bolt in, but I expect a fair amount is different.

The F head does not have a separate intake manifold but the carb bolts right to the head. All the cool performance parts come from Brazil where Kaiser moved the car, and the car and engine lived on, the engine for decades. In Brazil that had the twin carb head, cool exhaust manifolds, and bigger cubic inches - up to 140 hp. There was a version that did have a separate intake and great looking manifold.

I'm biased, but leave the stock engine in it - that F head design is so weird and just too cool an engine. Or if it is a 75 hp L head go find the F head engine for 90 hp - that is very bolt in. That should be no real problem for 70 MPH, and the OD would be fine for engine rpm. But for sure it's not a race car - probably take a while to get to 70.
 
The F-head Aero either had just a bit more power to weight than the Vette back then, or just a hair less, your only issue at 70mph is going to be if you're not in OD.
To put the longer and heavier 226 Continental in, you'll need the beefed up front suspension components, a grill shell with the notch for the more forward mounted radiator, and grill bar with the radiator notch, for starters.
Taller tires that fit will get you a modest single digit mph increase.
I've seen custom tube headers on Brazil cars but they don't have heaters. A US car would be much harder to fit with them, if you could clear the heater box at all.
I think the Brazil 2600 is the model with a pair of 3 into one cast iron manifolds, sometimes they turn up on mercadolivre.com.br
I've never seen the removable intake version cylinder head for sale, but have seen some awesome set-ups done with them on Brazil cars. One was a first class custom made fuel injection system piped straight into the 6 intake ports.
Keep in mind that when you start making changes, you've got to find a point where those mate up reliably with the stock build somewhere.
 
Thank you both very much.

I ordered the 1956 Hot Rod mag that discusses the swap to SBC. I have done a lot of reading and it is a little difficult but not bad.

I will think more before I decide what to do. I wish those parts from Brazil were more widely available. I wish I could find a 90 HP F head that was rebuilt and affordable. The 90 HP should be a bit more adequate.
 
Keep in mind that a SBC likely weighs more than the F-head, which is why Willys beefed up the suspension, particularly the trunnions, for the heavier 226. Back in '56 about any parts house had trunnions, a high wear item not easily found now.
You might get closer to the F-head weight with a V-6.
Also, as Ken Parkman stated, the F-head is a 90hp engine. It's basically the same very same 161cu in engine as the 75hp L-head, except with a better breathing head adapted to it.
 
The SBC is very close in weight. They began transplanting them in 1956 and I await the 11/56 Hot Rod mag that gives some detail.The 3.8 V6 Buick is supposed to be an easy swap The R400 should provide an overdrive ratio, about 0.67 to one. Sadly, resto mod is the way things go these days and I can see why. You get easy power with conveince and easy parts. I hate mods but I need to do 70 MPH quickly and I need to do 80mph on the interstate with a 40 mph headwind. Do these speeds or risk your life. That is the life the car will face. I want to use this car, not put it in a museum. I have four too nice classics to drive. They are not that much fun, more like a burden.

Sadly the two original flat heads I have both code to 75hp. One turns freely and has compression, shows 36000 miles. If it would get the job done, I would use it with a better exhaust. Mobile One in all areas to lube and a K&N air filter. I just think it will not work out these days.
 
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Personally, I would put a small block ford in before a sbc. At least the distributor is in front where it belongs.
 
Personally, I would put a small block ford in before a sbc. At least the distributor is in front where it belongs.

It would have an electronic conversion to replace the points. Hopefully I will not be messing with the distributor much.

I am so much more comfortable with a SBC, having had many, that leans me that way. Hopefully an C4 Corvette automatic with overdrive will fit?

I see many folks who suggest the Buick V6, one with the distributor in the front. From what I read that is an early 3.8.

I have to run 70 mph sustained and easily otherwise they may run over me. I like that and that is WY back roads, including considerable hills.

Thanks.
 
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I finally took the time today to complete the research. I found a really good replacement shock absorber for the front that doesn't require a lot of rework to fit. Basically, you have to cut the bottom mounting sleeve to the correct length (1 3/16").
Monroe Part Number 32067. The application is 1965-70 Buick full size and 1965-76 Cadillac.

Here is a picture of the old shock and the new one side by side.


More detail here : http://kfclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,5606.0.html

I have a few extra sets if anyone needs a pair.
 
Well I finally spent a little more time on the Aero. I finished the poor man's lowering blocks and installed them. I drilled a 1/2" hole through one side of the block and drilled and tapped a 5/16"-18 hole in the other. Had to grind down the machine screw just a little to pilot in to the spring purch.
IMG_1218 by Rick Jones, on Flick
IMG_1219 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
The nuts and bolts on this car amaze me. They look rusty as heck and I expect to break every one I touch but no. We wire wheeled the old U-bolts and squirted some penetrating oil on them and believe it or not, they spun right off of there. The new U-bolts ended up being the perfect length.
IMG_1220 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
 
Looked thru your post about your Aero. The rust doesn't look that bad from the pics i saw. I have seen way more rust on 10-12 yr old vehicles here in the U.P. That car must have sat a lot since they started using road salt. Nice work bringing it back to life to make a fun, unique driver.
 
Thanks! It doesn't look bad 10' away but there are plenty of bondo bubbles in the typical rust locations. The car came from a Willys dealership in Flint MI so, it did see it's share of salted roads but for only 37,000 miles or so. Suposidly the owner of the dealership kept this one as his own so, it may well have had better care taken of it than normal.
I just picked the re-tubed drive shaft up from Fleet Pride in Toledo this morning. $374.20 - Ouch!
 
A little more progress.
Yesterday, I went to a muffler shop and bought 10' of 1 3/4" pipe and had them put a bend in it for $26.50. I got half of the Lake Pipe exhaust system mocked up and actually functional. Now I just have to T in the straight pipe side of things.
IMG_1434 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
IMG_1435 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
I also ordered a wiring kit for the headlights and enough wiring to remake the overdrive harness from Rhode Island Wiring.
http://www.riwire.com/
 
Wow, looking good there!
RI Wire has the OD harness available separately, correct color, ends & wrapped. They also have several other accessory harnesses that might not be listed yet that they've added to their archive from NOS examples I sent in.
 
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