1st Post of my 55' Wagon / JKU Build

I repurposed mine to mount a Chevy Suburban rear seat to a cart as my shop couch. Eventually there will be a well built into the cart to store party hats for the visitors I now get since owning a project Willys. These allow the seat to hinge forward.

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I repurposed mine to mount a Chevy Suburban rear seat to a cart as my shop couch. Eventually there will be a well built into the cart to store party hats for the visitors I now get since owning a project Willys. These allow the seat to hinge forward.

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Very cool

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Hi Rick... I agree about the getting old 'stuff'... My back grabbed me while I was in KS last week. I took one of my pain pills and kept going. You gotta keep up the progress man and Make it To Moab!! My Son in Law (Alvin) and I are gonna be Busting Balls to get Floyd done for Moab... Alvin ordered the last of the new Suspension Parts today. I hope Floyd is ready for Moab. Pivnic
I know it's been a long time since posting. The long and the short of it is: I have been waiting for over 8 months for a !#@$!% custom gas tank. Excuses, excuses. I finally received it and low and behold, they made it to big! To big in every direction. To tall, to long, to wide...about 2 inches in each direction. So it won't fit in the skid plate/mount. SOB! After 2 days of steaming over that problem it was time to come up with a solution. I have the custom tank mounted with straps with no Skid plate for now. I needed to get this thing running again so I can finish other things on it(body work, final welding,etc), due to limited space in my shop.
With that said, I spent a huge amount of time getting this done (3 days). There are a lot of fuel lines, electrical connections to this modern stuff (roll-over valves, vents, evaporator canister, fuel pump, nylon fuel lines, etc.). Got it all hooked up, dumped in some gas(no leaks), hit the key...and nothing! Chit...I had forgotten to connect the fuel pump harness to the pump. Click - fixed. Hit the key.....
Success! Started and ran like a top!!! I felt like Young Frankenstein IT LIVES!
Let er run for 15-20 minutes trying to get it hot enough to kick on the electric fan, no luck. The custom radiator I had made is to efficient at idle in "park" to heat it up enough to kick on the fan, temps were good.
Moving on, thought I would put er in gear and see what I had. Nothing happened! Chit - now what! I had forgotten that when I had the console out I had to move the 4x4 lever into neutral and never put it back in gear. This sounds stupid but I didn't have the lever knobs on because I knew I was going to have to take out the console again. Anyhow, put it in 2wd high and she moves on er own once again.
No progress for a few more days, as I threw my back out Again - urg (so it gives me time to do this update)
Immediate next steps:
1) Go get a 4 wheel alignment and assure that my frame shortening is square and correct.
2) Final TIG weld drivers side frame rail at splice (with any adjustments needed)
3) Make and weld-in floor board patches where new meets old and seem seal. Weld-in firewall patches.
3a) Go get inspected and licensed.
3b) Drive / Beat the hell out of it (fix what's not up to standards)
3c) Make custom skid plate
4) Strip remaining body of old paint
5) Prime and paint
6) New tires (probably Goodyear DuraTrac P255/75R17, they seem to match my mission, but I'm open to other idea's). Due to cost I'm waiting on new wheels, want something nostalgic (not wagon wheels) something like steelies but not so outrageously priced
7) Replace all glass (tinted)
8) Find / Install a fold and tumble type rear seat (need suggestions / idea's as I haven't found anything that works yet)
9) Refinish or make new wood slats for rear.
10) Insulate interior and put in heat shields underneath.
11) Make interior kick panels
12) Upholster / finish interior panels
13) Install headliner
14) Make it to MOAB in 2018!

The lessons I've learned so far:
A) Don't let anyone tell you it can't be done or that it's to hard. The electrical was really not that big of a challenge. Just leave everything in tact. Only disconnect what can be reconnected and test before moving on(label stuff). I was able to make everything work, with the following exceptions: Seat beat light and Air bags light (I knew in advance I didn't want either one). Yes I have 3 point belts and no air bags. It's still much safer than my Model A hot rod.
B) Don't count on anyone else (I was disappointed every time and it cost me dearly).
C) Truthfully, do your homework and don't compromise your mission.
D) Due to how the donor frame is put together, shortening it was really not that big a deal (start to finish on the frame was less than 3 hours). Yes I had to shorten exhaust (20 minutes) and the driveshaft (urg about 8 hours).
E) Get better at 3 dimensional measuring. I would have spent more time carefully measuring where the cuts were to be made in the donor floorboards to minimize patching. (floorboards to Willys under seat boxes, console to boxes, console at rear to willys rear floor).
F) Expect to have to redo a few things as project progresses. This or that is in the way of that thing type redo's.
G) Enjoy the process and when frustrated, walk away for a while. You will come back with an open mind and a better solution to the problem at hand.
Well at least some of my missions accomplished. She made it to 3 shows 3 weekends in a row with no break downs or issues to speak of.
Cruises down the highway straight and true at 80mph no problem. According to the dash computer getting 17.8mpg combined.
My steel for custom skid plate should be in late next week. I thought it reasonable at 275.00 all perimeter cuts done 3/16 steel plate. Cheaper and better than I can buy then modify.
I figure that will take me a week to finish along with my floorboards/console sheet metal work.
Slow work but plodding along. Overall so far not a tough build.

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Any chance you can post some picks of your side steps you built, Your doing a great job on this Nice build Rick
 
Step build

Bruce,
The step puzzled me for a bit. The wagon is taller than I expected and my better half (5'1")and I (5'7") are relatively short. I wasn't sure when I made them if height would be correct. Simplest solution - make them adjustable - URG how do I do that?
I also knew that I was going to have to make them removable when I truly 4 wheel so I don't get hung up on something.
Cheap Harbor Freight 2" receivers just like what I have on the front and rear and use a drop hitch. The pad or step is some scrap metal plate that I have laying around and just cut a radius on it welded the plate to the drop hitch. I coated the step with some of the rubber drip that you put on hammer handles and the like.
Using the receiver hitch has several other advantages. You can buy a different drop hitch to change the height of the step if needed. It also can be used as a winch mount (my winch is portable and can be moved to all 4 sides of the Willys). I have extra long power cables for my winch. This may not make any sense to the rest of the world but when was the last time you saw a jeep on a mountain that needed to be winched with only what was mounted to the front? Besides any time I have needed to winch was for someone else behind me and the trails I do are only 1 car wide and not easy to turn around just to winch. The other thing I plan on doing is making rock sliders that will go into the same receiver when wheeling.
Hopefully these pic's will help you.
Rick
 

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Cool thinking.

Here's to you Rick :beer: for thinking out of the box. Good thinking with the idea to be removable steps and the rock guards.

Life has interrupted my build this summer but I'm back at it now.

I also came to the conclusion that I wanted the steps to be removable for Moab and to incorporate rock guards.

My to do list is getting shorter.
I have purchased the steps last month for future install.
I had started a couple times to figure out what was needed to mount them but I will use your idea to helped me to keep it simple. Thank you.

Cheers, Thomas:cheers:
 
Here's to you Rick [emoji481] for thinking out of the box. Good thinking with the idea to be removable steps and the rock guards.

Life has interrupted my build this summer but I'm back at it now.

I also came to the conclusion that I wanted the steps to be removable for Moab and to incorporate rock guards.

My to do list is getting shorter.
I have purchased the steps last month for future install.
I had started a couple times to figure out what was needed to mount them but I will use your idea to helped me to keep it simple. Thank you.

Cheers, Thomas:cheers:
Thomas no problem that's what we are all here for...helping one another

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Rick, could you take pictures of the front body mounts? I am doing a jk to truck conversion and am wondering how you did the front cab/body mount and where you located it for reference


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Cory,
Here are a couple of pic's, not sure how it's going to help you much. Sorry but the inner fenders are in the way to get a clear pic. Keep in mind my floorboards are from the JKU not the Willys. And yes I know I still need to finish up my welds etc on the floorboards. i will be doing that when I pull the gas tank for the last time to install my new skidplate.
I picked a spot where the frame and floorboards are parallel to one another (not necessarily where it's horizontal)
 

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Thank you for the pictures, when locating the body, did you have some reference of where the door frames? if it is not asking too much, could you get a measurement from the center of the axle to the front of the door opening? I just want to confirm that I am setting my cab in the correct spot since I am using the willys floor
 
Thank you for the pictures, when locating the body, did you have some reference of where the door frames? if it is not asking too much, could you get a measurement from the center of the axle to the front of the door opening? I just want to confirm that I am setting my cab in the correct spot since I am using the willys floor
I'll get that for you tomorrow. I didn't do it that way. I worked from back to front and centered the rear wheels with a plum Bob 4 of them actually. Then shortened the frame to the correct wheelbase. Measured for square. Then just tack welded it there. Then put on the front sheet metal to confirm look and fit. Took it for a 4 wheel alignment to confirm and then welded up tight. I was concerned that the bigger tires may require a longer wheelbase in front.

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I'll get that for you tomorrow. I didn't do it that way. I worked from back to front and centered the rear wheels with a plum Bob 4 of them actually. Then shortened the frame to the correct wheelbase. Measured for square. Then just tack welded it there. Then put on the front sheet metal to confirm look and fit. Took it for a 4 wheel alignment to confirm and then welded up tight. I was concerned that the bigger tires may require a longer wheelbase in front.

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I see you are doing a pickup so I get it now
Just keep in mind the much taller tires. It will take me a bit to get that inasmuch as I'm building my custom skid plate for my urg wrong size gas tank. But will do


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BTW,
I'm running 32" tall stock tires for a JKU 17" rims. All said and done I clear the garage door by 3/4". Cory, I don't know if you are using the JK firewall or not but if you are and use my 36" measurement you should have to move the firewall rearward about 3" to 4"
 
BTW,
I'm running 32" tall stock tires for a JKU 17" rims. All said and done I clear the garage door by 3/4". Cory, I don't know if you are using the JK firewall or not but if you are and use my 36" measurement you should have to move the firewall rearward about 3" to 4"


I am doing an electric conversion so I will not have to worry about firewall interference. I am using the stock willys cab, but figured the “center of the axle to door jam” measurement would be the same regardless of the firewall/floor combination. It is nice to have your measurement as a sanity check! I took a 2door JK chassis and lengthened it by 22.6” to get a 118” wheel base, then had to add 8.5” to the rear of the chassis to support the bed. It is sure nice that Chrysler designed the JK frame so easy to lengthen! I just used 2.5”x5” tube and welded some 1/8” spacer on the top and bottom of the frame to make a nice tight fit!


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I agree on your comment on the JK frame design. In your case pickup to JK frame I can see using a 2-door. If someone is reading this and are building a wagon - I STRONGLY suggest the use of a 4-door JKU. It is easier to shorten than lengthen a frame, additionally it will save hundreds of hours extending wiring harness etc.
 
I agree on your comment on the JK frame design. In your case pickup to JK frame I can see using a 2-door. If someone is reading this and are building a wagon - I STRONGLY suggest the use of a 4-door JKU. It is easier to shorten than lengthen a frame, additionally it will save hundreds of hours extending wiring harness etc.

I wholly agree on using a 4 door for a wagon! I will stop hyjacking your thread and start my own as to not confuse the content. Thank you for the help!


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Cory,
don't worry about it. I don't feel hyjakced. Valid questions, hopefully helpful answers
Rick
 
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