GrandWillys Project

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Bought a new bear claw door latch kit to update the nearly 60 year old stock ones. Was hoping to use the donor Jeep ones, but they were just way to big to fit. These come in a small and large styles, but chose the large which is recommended for heavier doors as has more latching strength.


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The position was same as stock centering on the B pillar recess. It will fit over the old location in the door as well.


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Will have to find a way around the interference of the locking lever with the window channel.


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The large and small styles are both the same thickness at 19mm- 3/4". Will have to hammer out the side of the door a bit to make sure it clears.


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The mounting plate is is fully welded into position.


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Just showing on the other door how I pre-tensioned the door by clamping down onto the trestle before welding it. The shrinkage of the welding brought it back flat again along the back of the door.


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Smoothed off. You barely notice the extra couple of millimetres to clear the window channel as I made sure the folded edge was still straight and inline with the rest of the door.


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Here you can see the differences and the modifications needed. I hammered out the old recess for the exterior handle mounting screw and also deepened the one side of the pocket for the window channel mount.


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I had done this by making this little hammer form to match the shape I wanted in the end.


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The form was placed on the table and the door clamped over it. The edge was then hammered down. A mallet was also used inside the door to hit down on top of this hammer.


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Can see the shape finished now.


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Can't say I was that rapt in the way it mounts with the jaws protruding past the door edge when open.


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It also meant the striker bolt mount would be partially off the edge as well on the B pillar as well as the caged nut on the back.


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So I welded up the mounting holes and made the front opening hole smaller as well. Moved the whole lock back further inside the door. This also solved the clearance problem with the locking lever as well as more clearance for the opening and closing release latch as well.


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I couldn't use the recess as then the striker bolt would not reach the new lock.


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So it was cutout completely so that the new mounting plate with the nut cage with nut could be butt welded into place. The top and bottom edges were arched outwards slightly so that the weld shrinkage would pull it inwards.


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Good full penetration welds, rather than weak little tacks all over the place, was used to weld it into place. Pre-stretching the edge meant it pulled back flat after welding as no hammering could be done.
 
I dont remember if it has been asked/shared yet. What type of grinding or sanding wheel setup are you using to get your welds ground down smooth? I find "flapper disc" or "soft wheel" doesn't seem too effective and also feel it adds a lot of heat.
 
I dont remember if it has been asked/shared yet. What type of grinding or sanding wheel setup are you using to get your welds ground down smooth? I find "flapper disc" or "soft wheel" doesn't seem too effective and also feel it adds a lot of heat.

Grinder until razor blade thickness left. Then 80 grit flap disc until flush followed by a strip disc.
 
Marcus,
what was the reason to deepen the channel pocket clearance for the latch ? And how far did you recess your latch inward it looks like you moved it a 1/2 "or so it does look much better. This is my next job that needs to be done.
I have seen the XJ handles used a few times and its what i was leaning to but was trying not to add the lock in the door wanted it in the handle but everything i find is just too big.
Thanks for sharing your install, much better than the factory set-up.
 
Marcus,
what was the reason to deepen the channel pocket clearance for the latch ? And how far did you recess your latch inward it looks like you moved it a 1/2 "or so it does look much better. This is my next job that needs to be done.
I have seen the XJ handles used a few times and its what i was leaning to but was trying not to add the lock in the door wanted it in the handle but everything i find is just too big.
Thanks for sharing your install, much better than the factory set-up.

Not sure what you mean by deepen the channel pocket clearance? The recess that I made the little hammer form for or hammering out the latch mounting area a few millimetres?

Know what you mean about choosing other handles as faced the same problem. The only other ones I came close to using were ones from a VW Beetle. You have to use the matching latches with them as well but couldn't get new latches and the second-hand ones here were pretty worn. Much better with the integrated lock though which I prefer too. I will be relying on XJ solenoids to lock and unlock remotely as can't work a key lock into it. I wanted remote central locking anyway.
 
Why did you modify the pocket for the window channel mount, i assumed you did this to move the window channel over for latch clearance.

Yes VW has some nice handles we can get new handles here cheap but i can only find pre 66 latches new, the newer stuff just used and bear claw latches are smaller.
 
Why did you modify the pocket for the window channel mount, i assumed you did this to move the window channel over for latch clearance.

Yes VW has some nice handles we can get new handles here cheap but i can only find pre 66 latches new, the newer stuff just used and bear claw latches are smaller.

Only modified one side that was part of the recess that the stock latch was in to bring it up to the same level as the other three sides. The mounting pad of the window channel is still stock depth.

Also I moved the latch back about 5/8" to clear the jaws inside and for the locking lever to clear the window channel.
 
Marcus, I have a couple of questions for you. I just finished installing bear claw latches on my wagon and I had to move the vertical window channel inward 3/16" (4.75mm) to give room for the bear claw latches. My question is how did you overcome this issue? My next question is how are you going to have the inner and outer door handles talk to the bear claws? I had to do a lot of fab work to get all of the components to talk to each other. Just curious to see what your plan is on how you will concur these issues. I used Willys factory outside handles and 68 Camaro inner latches (transmission). I can't wait to see what you come up with.

Steve


Edit, I read your post again and realized that you were able to manipulate the sheet metal over a couple mm's to allow room for you bear claw. I used the AutoLoc brand and they required a little more room than the brand you used.
 
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Marcus, I have a couple of questions for you. I just finished installing bear claw latches on my wagon and I had to move the vertical window channel inward 3/16" (4.75mm) to give room for the bear claw latches. My question is how did you overcome this issue? My next question is how are you going to have the inner and outer door handles talk to the bear claws? I had to do a lot of fab work to get all of the components to talk to each other. Just curious to see what your plan is on how you will concur these issues. I used Willys factory outside handles and 68 Camaro inner latches (transmission). I can't wait to see what you come up with.

Steve


Edit, I read your post again and realized that you were able to manipulate the sheet metal over a couple mm's to allow room for you bear claw. I used the AutoLoc brand and they required a little more room than the brand you used.

Hopefully what I did this week will answer the rest of your questions. :)
 
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Now you see the latch in place behind the window channel. Problem to solve now is to connect the door handle at the top right to the latch link on the left, without going in front of the window channel where the glass will run in.


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Top view shows it a bit better maybe. Can make out the door handle link attachment on the bottom right which has to connect to the gold lever coming off the top of the latch. Cannot go in front of the window channel.


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I thought I would build a hinge to go behind the window channel. Just using some 35mm SHS for the support and the hinge pin made from a 8mm bolt.


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Made some arms for the hinge from 20x3mm flat steel. I drilled them all the same to match link positions as gives me the option of a ratio change if needed.


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I welded the arms to the pivot ends and have a 21* difference in them so one end sat low enough below the door handle.


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Also put a dog leg on the door handle side to get it to line up better.


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Rather than having more bolts attaching the hinge to the inside of the door, or welding it in permanently, I welded it to the top of the latch housing.


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Made up a short link to connect one arm to the latch lever.


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Here you can see it in place. Rather than go all the way down to the bottom of the door and back up the other side like you see others do, I thought this was a better solution.


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So now when I push the door handle button, it lifts the hinge arm up and transfers it to the other side and lifts the lever arm on the latch. The window channel and glass will go in between the hinge arms.


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Another top view. With these door handles I could just swap them left to right to make the lever on the inside go up or down to suit. Even just swap the mechanism if needed.


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Other door done now as well. These latches can be swapped left to right if it works out better to have the lever at the top or bottom. When like this the lever needs to be pulled up to release, when at the bottom the lever needs to go down.
 
Very clever! In the first pic it looks like the Cherokee linkage will be very close to touching the glass? I wanted new latches too, but didn't want to lose the original door handles and just gave up when my brain started to hurt.
 
Very clever! In the first pic it looks like the Cherokee linkage will be very close to touching the glass? I wanted new latches too, but didn't want to lose the original door handles and just gave up when my brain started to hurt.

Going to be very close to the glass but calculations say it should 'just' clear!
 
Hello Marcus.

Your door latch update looks really good - my first thought was about the future door-edge-gasket's effect on how your doors will actually close. Assuming the B pillar pin shown in the last picture of your post #1381 has enough adjustment, everything should be fine. But, on our wagon, the doors don't really close fully mostly because of the new rubber gasket. I hope you don't have too much trouble when you glue on the door gasket!
 

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Marcus, thanks for showing us how you went about making all of the door latch pieces play nice with each other. I like your solution, very nice.
 
Great job you made this look easy and you just helped a lot of Willy's owners who want something that works. I have a set of the plastic handles but like the chrome better, the plastic rod locks are those cherokee pieces or what model did you get them from.
Thanks for sharing this mod.
 
Great job you made this look easy and you just helped a lot of Willy's owners who want something that works. I have a set of the plastic handles but like the chrome better, the plastic rod locks are those cherokee pieces or what model did you get them from.
Thanks for sharing this mod.
Thanks mate. The rod locks are either from the XJ or the WK. They both use the same sized rod.

Marcus, thanks for showing us how you went about making all of the door latch pieces play nice with each other. I like your solution, very nice.
Cheers. :)
Great shots of the inner door mods! Excellent work as usual!:beer:
Thanks. :)
Hello Marcus.

Your door latch update looks really good - my first thought was about the future door-edge-gasket's effect on how your doors will actually close. Assuming the B pillar pin shown in the last picture of your post #1381 has enough adjustment, everything should be fine. But, on our wagon, the doors don't really close fully mostly because of the new rubber gasket. I hope you don't have too much trouble when you glue on the door gasket!
The door is adjusted 'loose' at the moment so when you pull back on the door it becomes flush. There are two thicknesses of the seal used on the Willys depending on the year, so can always swap to the thinner one if needed.
 
Sorry about going into so much detail on these locks, but I struggled to find much about this on the net so thought others might need the information one day.


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Next up is making the doors lock and unlock. I wanted a manual release on the inside of the door in case something happened to the central locking. I had these wide flat head bolts to use as pivots from an old CRT monitor I think. I always strip down and take fasteners out of everything that is to be thrown out and everything goes into the sorted bins I have. The pivot links were cut from some flat stock.


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I fully welded the head of the bolt to the door frame. I didn't want any long term fatigue so why I chose the widest flat bolt/screw head to use. What needs to be operated is the L shaped lever coming out of the lock and needs to go straight up and down, but is on the wrong side of the glass.


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I used these door lock release rods from the donor front doors and bent them to suit the offset I needed.


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This is the best way I could think of to move the lever up and down directly under it. It sometimes would jam if you tried pushing up on an angle. This is another reason I ran the latch with the locking lever at the bottom as it would work conventionally. Pulling up on the door release knob would pull down the lever and unlock it like shown.


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Pushing down on the inside lock rod would push it into the locked position. The pivot link was made as long as I could to get enough travel without binding. Also made sure the pivot link is level halfway through its travel to prevent binding as well. A nyloc nut on the pivot bolt will used for final assembly.


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Next thing was to make a mount for the central locking actuator/solenoid. I didn't want another set of screws or rivets at the end of the door, or on the inside either. So will hide them under the door card. The metal was too thick for my folder so knocked it over in my smallest vise.


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Needed a joggle in it to suit the door. So after the first fold was made, I raised it up 1/4" and then bent it back the other way. Held this hammer against the edge to start with and hit it with a nylon mallet.


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One joggle!


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It clears the motor nicely. These came out of a XJ Jeep Cherokee, pre 97, but are the same found on many GM cars from the 80's and early 90's. They actually have a rack and pinion system in them. Better than the cheap Chinese versions in the kits.


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The stock rod for the actuator won't work as angle is too great and in the way of the end of the glass channel.


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Bent the first bend in the vise but the second bend won't work in it. So clamped a set of Visegrips in the vise to make the second bend.


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Knocked it over and now matches the stock rod.


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I also put another step in it so it would line up directly under the pivot link. Less wear on the actuator this way.


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First two bends are to locate it in the top of the actuator.


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Last two bends are to get it lined under the pivot link.


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Here it is all mounted up. In the locked position now.


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Unlocked position.


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Screws will be hidden under the door card which sits inside the recess. Wafer head self drilling screws were used to hold it in place. The self drilling ones are hardened and won't wallow out over time. Can also see why the joggle was needed in the bracket.
 
Nice Going to be fancy thats for sure.
 
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