I need the Tappet Brothers. Looking for help with transmission issue

edgy

Sharpest Tool
Jun 25, 2016
328
Riverton, Utah
First Name
Ed
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1957
Fitst thing first this is not a Willys Transmission issue. I put my 59 wagon boody on a 2000 chevy blazer frame and drive train.

The details:
The drive train I used had nearly 100,000 miles on it. I drove it home and everything seemed to be working well so I decided to reuse it without rebuilding it.
The transmission cooler is integrated into the new aluminum radiator that I installed in my build

In the teardown I damaged the electronics connector on the transmission, so I replaced the wiring harness on the transmission. I ended up replacing one of the solenoids as well because it was broken either before I took it apart or when I dropped the pan.

I learned later that I did not seat the electronics connector on the new harness properly in the transmission body. I was unable to get the connector vehicle wiring harness to completely seat on the transmission connector. There were a few intermittents on it, but I was anxious to shake-down the rest of the build and drive it a little, so I promised myself that I would drop the pan again soon to be able to seat the fitting properly. It would occasionally go into 'limp-home mode where it would be limited to 2 and 3 gear.

I drove it that way for about 200 miles until one day I heard a click (snap?) that sounded like a rock hitting the undercarriage and I lost all power in all gears, forward and reverse.

I was reasonably confident that it wasn't the transfercase because the wheels were locked in Park.

I had the transmission rebuilt. Replaced it this time there were no intermittents and all the gears worked perfectly, and the downshifts were perfect as well All seemed to be in order.

A couple of days after I replaced the transmission (I had driven it just 40- 50 miles) I heard a noise that I thought was a exhaust leak. (Phwit, Phwit Phwit phwit) that later developed into a more prominent noise more like squish, squish squish. The noise would go away temporarily after shifting into another gear, but would return are a few seconds. I called the rebuilder and asked him about the noises. He said that was a new one on him. He recommended that I continue to drive it- because sometimes the fittings were quite tight and it took a few miles to get them to wear-in. He said the problem would either resolve itself or the transmission would fail and I could then bring it in for replacement under warranty.

50 miles later, i had exactly the same experience driving up the very same gentle hill at 45 MPH. This time there was a louder snap, and noises like gears grinding and I lost all Power to the wheels, but the wheels still lock up in Park.

I spent four hours on Saturday dropping the transmission,( I'm getting pretty good at it. -Unfortunately)

I am looking for some thoughts from the forum if there is something basic that I have overlooked in installing the transmission that my inexperience is causing me these problems, or is it just a couple of instances of bad luck?

Some of you may remember the Maniaci brothers on the Car Talk radio program on NPR. This kind of problem would have been right up their alley, I hope there are some good detectives in the forum who might be able to identify a good course of action for. I would just as soon never have to drop the transmission again.
 
Toss out the obvious.
  1. Fluid type correct.
  2. Capacity was correct, not overfilled.
  3. Also did you check it warm and on level ground
  4. Any issues with the filter seating, sometimes you see an extra oring or Seal Left on the filter.
  5. Any metal in the pan when you dropped it.
 
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Thanks for your thoughts
I am confident that the fluid levels were correct and the correct fluid. The filter was tight and no silver flecks in the pan there was a little bit of black collected on the magnet in the pan the pan was completely full of fluid when I pulled the pan
 
How were the Torque Converter bolts when you took it back apart?

Sounds like it could be Torque Converter?

Did they check it or just drain and reuse?
 
Manual Valve stuck? You should be able to watch that with the pan off, or look for a YouTube on that check.

I would say check the detent lever but I almost think you would feel that, or not have Park, but it's what moves the Manual Valve.

It's all gears, so starting with the TC, then the manual valve, then the VB, could they have used the wrong gasket between the VB and case? Or is this one of those all in one deals?

Park would work if your manual valve was stuck but nothing else.

These above don't address the noise, so if it's a hard part like a sun gear or a one way clutch those are all hard parts.

I would not rule out it's a bad TC, sounds like it's going back to the builder.
 
I took it back to the builder today. the TC wasn't seated properly. My best guess is right now that I did the same thing twice because last time the fluid pump connectiopn got chewed up the same way.
I am perplexed. I would have sworn that the TC was inserted as far as it could have been inserted, with the usual 3 stations (Clicks). When I installed the TC to the flex plate it was a tad more than 1/8 inch away from the flexplate. So tightening the bolts drew it slightly away from the fluid pump fitting.

Do I need to install some kind of spacers between the flexplate and TC?
 
Is it possible to have the flexplate in backwards? Are there steps in the flexplate that face one way or another?

Sometimes they give a measurement for the TC after its in, you toss a straight edge across and double check the measurement. Can't find that.

Here are some screenshots.

Screenshot_20230911_191846_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20230911_192109_Chrome.jpg

It kinds looks like they are stepped and the step should be out towards the Transmission.
 
Check that the fluid lines between the transmission & the radiator are not crushed or kinked. BTDT, with a Dodge 727 & had similar results.
 
After a discussion with the rebuilders, it looks like the flexplate is suspect. The mounting surface for the TC should be at least .1 inches closer to the transmission. They suggested the flexplate may be warped and they have seen similar results from a warped flexplate. Another $100 for a flexplate!
 
I hope we can close the casebook on this issue. I put in a new flexplate and I have put about 2000 miles on the re-rebuilt transmission.
So far so good! Keep me in your prayers!
 
Hey, good luck with the fix.
I had a similar issue on a Ford where the earlier engine crank had a smaller TConvert snout hole. I was given a later model TConverter w/ large diameter snout. The engine builder obtained an earlier TConverter with smaller dia snout, and all was good.
Before discovering the difference, I lost a day trying in vain to carefully obtain proper engagement, to no avail.
Nowadayz, some newer engines have the pumps on the front of the engine block similar to an auto Transmission.
 
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